I've got a Mitsubishi M-VR1000 reciever with a remote control. The reciever works great when you hit the buttons on the display face, but the remote control will not operate it. The batteries have been replaced and the red LED on the reomote lights up, but still nothing. I've tried to program the remote to operate other A/V components, but it won't respond to any of them. Any suggestions? THANKS!
SOURCE: tv wont turn on
That same thing just happened to my t.v. The repair person will be here on 10/10/06. I will let you know what they say.
SOURCE: Blinking Green Light on Mitsubishi DLP 52525
No problem, do self diagnosis test, read threads here or goto ctechnicians.com get error codes first and get back with me.
SOURCE: Mitsubishi DLP - model #WD62725
fixityrsel is wrong.
1 The "Airflow message"is just a bad connection and very easily solved.Mitsubishi has a service bulletin out and will cover the repair for free. Your set may not even have the defective connectors.
Your set was manufactured in 2004..Call any authorized Mitsubishi
servicer.
Capacitors are very easy to find! Any (105 degree) PC mount 3300uf@ 16VDC will work fine..and not bulge again..Higher Working voltage than the stock 10 VDC is what caused the problem with the caps.
Mouser electronic is one of hundreds of suppliers for those caps
Order online if you know for sure they are bad in your set.
Dan
SOURCE: Blinking Green Light on Mitsubishi DLP 52525
Even if you replace the capacitors already mentioned in this
thread, you may still suffer from the Green LED of Death. Here is how Bronson279 helped me resolve the
problem. But note that it involves
adding a switch to your tv set and requires a bit of soldering ability and the
willingness to void your warranty. BUT
you can save big $$$$ on sending the set out for repair.
Here is my solution-
After replacing several bad capacitors (you can get replacement capacitors
from Mouser electronics on line by the way.. be sure to order the same capacitance
values and same or higher voltage rating and be sure they are rated for 105
degrees C.) I still had the dreaded G.L.O.D. Note that the first time I plugged it in
after taking it apart the G.L.O.D was not there and it powered up
normally. But when I had to unplug the
set to fully re assemble it, it came back.
The issue is caused by both the FMT board (formatter) and
the DM (Digital Module) board’s microprocessors tying to establish
communications with each other. Somehow a race condition gets started with each
thinking that the other board needs to be reset and then starting the boot
process over again.
You need to interrupt this cycle with a switch. Buy a DPDT switch from radio shack (or Mouser
Elec…) and again take apart your electrical chassis (If you have it apart
replacing bad caps you might as well add the switch or you may end up having to
disassemble the whole thing again.) On
the FMT board along the top edge near the input connector side of the chassis
there is a four wire connector labeled “FC”.
It has two black wires and 1 orange and one Brown wire. Leave the black wires connected and cut the orange and brown ones about an
inch from the connector. Solder four 12
inch wires onto the ends (one on the source side brown, source side orange and
one on the connector side brown and connector side orange) use heat shrink tubing to cover the solder
connection points. (If you can’t get tubing, then electrical tape will do, but
make sure the joints can’t short out to each other or the electrical chassis.) Now take the brown and orange wires from the
connector side and solder those to the middle two terminals of the DPDT switch
(one on each side not both to both terminals) Then pick one side of the outside
terminals of the switch and solder the source side brown and orange wires to
the terminal across from the same color (brown across from brown and orange
across from orange) See the diagram below.
The idea is to connect the wires normally when the switch is closed and
break the connection when the switch is thrown the other way. Before soldering
the wires to the switch add a piece of heat shrink tubing to wire so that you
can cover the solder point up after it is assembled.
Now re-assemble the electrical chassis and route the switch/wires
outside the chassis (I snipped a hole along the edge of the top fan shield to
get the wires out.) and put it back in the TV.
You need to also get the switch to the outside of the TV somehow (I
drilled a ½ inch hole in the plastic cover to snake the switch through but you
can do it however you like)
Here is how to use it-
From a fresh plug in- throw the switch to the OPEN position (the wires
are not connected) plug in the TV, the green LED should stop blinking after 60
secs like it is supposed to. Once it stops, flip the switch the other way so
the wires are connecting. Hit the power
button. The TV should turn on- your done!
Yeah!
From a plugged in, hmmm my power must have gone out,
state. Assuming you have the GLOD, flip
the switch to the open position, hit the reset button on the front of the tv,
wait for the blinking to stop, flip the switch back closed and turn the TV on
normally… Again you are done…
Note that the first time you turn on the TV you may have to
flip the switch the other way (if the TV won’t turn on even without a blinking
LED) This means that the switch was open and you need to have it closed to get
it to work. If you tried turning on the
TV with the switch open, start over by following the reset button procedure
above.
Note this is much easier to do than it sounds. Also note that it helps if you have the
repair manual. Its titled V26 Repair
Manual –full This is nice to have
because it has a wiring interconnect diagram also which details all the
connector placements
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i have the same problem with my m-vr1000 remote.this is the second remote in the last four years with the same problem. it could be that its time to purchase a new surround system.
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