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Brand and model would help but here is the most common way to fix. There is a plastic frame all the way around the inner door which should have the 2 holes in it that the latch hooks come through. That frame usually needs to be gently pried away from the door. Use a small blade screw driver and be careful because it is brittle and will crack easily. Once that is removed, you should see the latch and spring system. springs are usually attached over a small hook on the door and one on the latch hook.
Can't tell from the vid but you did hook up the rod from the handle to the latch mechanism, correct? There should be 3 different rods hooked to the latch, one for the lock, one for the inside handle and one for the outside handle. make sure the one for the outside is hooked up at both ends. Then disconnect the one going to the handle and try actuating the latch by pushing/pulling the rod. If you can't actuate it that way, the latch may be broken internally and will need to be replaced.
is latch already in closed position will not close see if you can insert key and turn to unlock
using a pick hook or scredriver to re open pawls in latch system
if all this is corect adjustment may be needed on latch system to catch
Usually a strong coat hanger will snag the lug the cable attaches too. You will need to bend a 3/8 end J hook from the coat hanger and snag it from the drivers side of the latch to pull on this lug horizontally
' If the hood is trashed just zip a hole into the hood were that latch is located with a disc grinder and a cut off wheel instead
Hope this helps, it worked on my 2003 beetle convertible. First, I tried adjusting the latch mechanism and the catch post to put them closer together when the trunk is closed. You will need to remove all of the trunk trim to get to the screws on these two pieces. You also need a special bit called a "triple square" bit in two sizes to loosen them. The trim removal took forever. This works for many folk, but unfortunately, this did now work for me. The second trick did work. I found the cure on my car when I rotated the latch hook by hand. When the latch hooks around the catch you can see that there is a piece of rubber in the top of latch hook that is supposed to cushion the thud of the latch shutting on the catch post. On my car, the rubber extended so far into the latch and was so hard that the catch post could not go far enough in to allow the hook to snap over. Use the remote to open the latch, pull off the soft plastic cover over the latch and you will see the rubber spacer and how it attaches. Pull off the spacer, sand it down a considerable amount with sand paper wrapped around a small dowl, and reinstall. I could now see that there was room for the catch post to fit into the latch far enough that the hook would spring around and lock it down. Works now with no slams. Good luck.
There is a lock and there is a latch.
You can latch the safe without locking it and unlocking it does not unlatch it.
After you unlock it, then you must press up on the spring loaded latch while (this important) pressing down on the cover to releast the pressure on the latch hook, allowing it to move out of the way. After the latching hook is out of the way, you can release the pressure on the lid and it will open. You can't see the latch hook as it drops down from the lid, into the front wall of the safe where it engages a post, but perhaps you can imagine what it looks like.
Mine will not unlatch, even though it is unlocked, unless I press down on the lid to give it clearance first. There is quite a bit of spring in the plastic that this safe is constructed out of. It works against you when you try to open it and close it.
I can take digital photos of the mechanism if this description does not help.