Washer tub does't spring back...

One or more of the tub suspension rods or dampening straps could be damaged. Does the tub bounce smoothly, if you push it down and then release it? This checks the suspension rods. Other parts related to balancing the tub include the suspension pads, springs or balance rings. (The washer will usually squeal and shake badly, if the tub bearing is failing.)

The washer shuts off to avoid damage additional damage to the washer.

I hope this helps. Please add a comment with the model number of the washer, if you need a parts diagram to show where to look for these parts. The model number may be on the machine in one of these places: on the back behind the control panel, inside the lid on the bottom right corner, or on the back of the washer on the base frame on the left.

Cindy Wells

Hello. I need the make and model number to help you accurately but here is something you can check right away. If this is a top loading unit, open the lid and place your hands on the right and left side of the tub ring(the plastic ring that covers the spin basket). Smartly push down on it and let go. The tub/basket assembly should grip going down and pull coming up--JUST LIKE AN AUTOMOBILE SHOCK ABSORBER) Most newer top load washers have a set of 4 suspension rods--one at each corner of the tub, they have torsion springs and, the whole tub is suspended by them. They keep the basket/tub under constant control. They are worn out when, if pushed down as described above, display a "bouncy hobby-horse" movement. THEY SHOULD COME UP AND IMMEDIATELY SETTLE. And yes, if a single corner is worn more than the rest, REPLACE THE FULL SET. Normally, they come in a set of 4--however that isn't always true. Some washers have different rods for the rear of the tub and front--(ex. there is a model that has red colored rods for the back and blue ones for the front and its EXTREMELY important to get them correct--there are different part numbers for them, too). Also, and this is for any top loaders with the wash plate(round disk at the bottom), if the shaft/bearings are shot(roaring like a jet aircraft or sounding like a freight train in your laundry room), this can cause an out of balance error also. If the unit is "thumping"(i.e. not spinning smoothly on spin) it could indicate a direct drive motor with a cracked stator assembly(the part of the motor with all the wire coils).
For the FRONT LOADERS, they all have shock absorbers--either 3 or 4, depending on the make/model. NORMALLY, the shocks almost never wear out--they will break or crack and need to be replaced. If they are undamaged and still sliding in/out, chances are they are good. What DOES wear out is the set of HEAVY DUTY suspension springs that the WHOLE tub assembly is hung by at the top on the left and right sides. These springs look like "hobby horse springs on severe steroids". After some years of use--there is no hard and fast rule, they can become worn out and allow too much movement of the tub/basket assembly, resulting in the out-of-balance error codes occurring more and more frequently. Generally, these sets of springs are not expensive--but you better have eaten your Wheaties in order to replace them!(That tub is heavy as heck and the springs have to be placed in specific holes at each side). When you remove the top, you will see how the springs are mounted. I hope I helped you!

Hi penpoint1959 - The washer tub is stabilized by a number of springs that are attached to the frame of the tub and base of the washer. Make sure that the unit is loaded evenly and that the entire laundry center is leveled properly. If correct, possibly one or more of the springs may have broken or come loose. As far as the dryer is concerned, it could be a bad motor, a clog in the blower wheel or something binding the tub. Try spinning the dryer tub with your hand. If you notice that the drum cannot rotate freely, I suggest consulting a professional for an accurate diagnosis and to assist with the repairs.

Make sure that where the spring attaches to the bottom of the tub mount, is not rusted into also. If it's not replace the spring. Here is how.
Find where spring goes back to. Possession your self on the side where the spring Now from under the washer, pull the tub toward you (the place where the spring goes) Be ready to hook spring back up. If you cant get this to work, try laying the machine down so that the tub will fall toward the spring goes. This will mae it 100% easier to replace them.
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A spring is off. Remove the cabinet and re-set the tub spring in the lower back side of the washer.

most likely a spring has come off the tub base. there are three short horizontal springs that surround the tub connecting it to the tripod base and one long spring in the very back that connects the base to the bottom back. check these out and reattach if off.

This washing machine has self-leveling rear legs. Tilt the machine up on the front legs and you'll hear the back legs drop down to re-level itself. Center the basket and restart.

there are springs that keep tub centered.also some small glides that can wear.most common prop.spring.most models can look thru bottem .the spring that fails most is towards the back,left rear,goes from washer to body.check that out God bless,tom

ok i need a lilttle help from you,,,ok,,,open lid..take your hand and put it on the top of the agitator,,push the hole agitator and tub back,,and let it go if the tub stays back and does not come back center by its self,,your counter balance spring broke,,no mattter which way you push that agitator it shoud come back to near center..what could be bad counter balance springs ,,or tub surport springs.if you need help removing and changing please post

It is easier to do this job if the machine can be leaned back By leaning it back, the tub will hang back from the front panel and you will have increased space to work. If leaning it back is not possible, then a 6 or 8 inch block of wood can be wedge between the front panel and the tub to hold the tub back out of the way. Using some liquid dishwasher soap sparingly lubricate this groove on the boot to make it easier to slip onto the lip of the tub shell. With the boot in one hand and with the other hand
spreading the lip and groove (on the boot near the arrow), force the lip into the groove behind the lip at the top of the opening on the tub shell. Using spacers provided with the new boot, hold the spring in place in the groove on the outside perimeter of the
boot. these spacers will prevent the spring from popping out when you let go of it to use both hands to stretch it further around the boot. Begin by pushing the spring down into the groove just forward
from where the boot contacts the front tub shell at about the 12 o’clock position. While holding the spring in place with one hand, use the other to tightly wedge the spacer above it, between
the spring (in its groove) and the weight ring above it. Working to the right, push the spring down into the groove. Once the spring has been installed about 90 degrees around the opening from the first spacer, the spring will begin to get tight. Install another spacer at that point. Check the first spacer to make sure it stays in place. Continue working your way around until you reach
180 degrees from the first spacer. Install the third spacer. The spring will be extremely tight now. Once you have gone more than half way around, the spring will be easier to roll into the rest of the groove.