Machine fuses house RCD if a drying cycle is selected
Hi there, I a having a problem with my WD63 washer dryer, the machine works fine in the wash mode (even on the hot washes)at the end of every wash it trips the power in my house and if i select any drying progam (even if there is a wash cycle first) the the machine just trips the power. can anyone suggest what might be causing this,
Many thanks in advance
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Re: Machine fuses house RCD if a drying cycle is selected
Suggest you turn the power off, remove the top cover, diconnect the live and neutral connections to the dryer element (likely to be two of each flavour of connection if the machine has high and low dry settings). Pop a bit of insulating tape around the wire ends so you don't short anything out.
Now try to put the machine through a drying cycle. If it works (albeit cold) without tripping the house power, you need a new dryer element.
If the house power still trips, turn the power off again and without reconnecting the element wires, disconnect and tape the live and neutral wires from the blower motor.
Again, try to run a drying cycle. If this stops the house power tripping, then it looks like a motor problem (though this would be quite unusual).
If the house power still trips, you need to have a careful look at all the wiring between the main timer, the dryer timer, any hi/lo heat switch, the blower motor and the element with its associated thermostats and thermal cutouts (all located near the element on the air duct). Look in particular for chafes where wires go round corners, and where wiring crosses from the case to the suspended machinery in the middle of the machine.
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Hi Jacky, Please make sure the power is off and unpluged.On the rear of the heater element board you will find a thermal cut out switch (it's about as big as a 5p piece with an oval outer body) what happens is the heaters overload and pops the bimetal switch, on the back of the switch you will see a small hole just big enough to fit a pin in, get a pin and gently push the bimetal disc and it should pop, if it does then you are fixed.
I also have a wd63 and was running it on an extention (2core). Was having the same problem. Ensure this device is earthed as there is a large capacitor that needs an earth. Otherwise you can get a small electric shock and a rcd will pick this up straight away!
WHAT HAS HAPPENED HERE IS THAT IS THE INTERLOCK HAS SHORTED AND BLEW THE FUSE AND THE REASON WHY THE MACHINE WORKED CAME BACK ON IS BECAUSE THE INTERLOCK HAS NOW OPENCIRCUIT AND THAT IS WHY THE DOOR WILL NOT OPEN JUST REPLACE THE INTERLOCK
the chances are you water valve has gone the drying cycle requires water to convert steam back to water, or poss your condenser is blocked this cant be cleaned easily better to change I dont know how competent you are if you have a muti meter you could test the soleniod which should have a resistence of around 3800 ohms. the valve is a triple one and the one that serves the condenser is the one facing downwards, disconnect power,take back off, turn water suppy off,take the 2 leads off the bottom solaniod only ,put your meter on contacts make sure you have selected crrect range on meter ie:10mohms if 0000 solanid faulty.Change valve if reading says 3800 valve ok change condenser