Blowing Fuses.... My washer blew its fuse,and went pop from the lower front left hand corner. When I laid it over to look at the fault,there was a bit of water under a plastic sheet which covers 2 terminals on a long 12" plastic box,to which the pump is connected to on the right hand side,and the fluff filter also connects to this box. I dried it completely,covered it with a bag,(in case there was a slight drip somewhere),but when I tirned it on the fuse blew again! - It did not blow straight away,as it seemed ok for a start,but when I think it reached the setting to 'wash' and put the water in,there was a humm sound,and little else,then it blew again. The door seal is brand new, and I cannot see any obvious fault with the machine.....please help :0 Thank you..

ON THE LOWER FRONT OF THE MACHINE THERE IS A COVER THAT CAN BE REMOVED
WITH A COIN OR SCREW DRIVER ---- HAS 2 TWIST SCREWS HOLDING IT ------
ONCE REMOVED YOU WILL SEE A DRAIN PLUG ON THE LEFT LOWER CORNER --
THIS HAS A PLASTIC TURN KNOB THAT OPENS BY HAND ... SOMETIMES A BIT HARD TO OPEN BUT TURN KNOB LEFT AND WILL OPEN ....... WATER WILL START TO LEAK OUT AS YOU OPEN THIS BUT DON'T WORRY -- THIS HAS TO HAPPEN --- NOT ALL THAT MUCH WATER BUT BE PREPARED TO MOP IT UP ......... NEXT PULL THE DRAIN FILTER OUT FROM
THIS OPENING AND WASH IT OUT ... ALSO REACH IN TO THE OPENING WITH FINGERS AS
THERE MAY BE SOME BLOCKAGE BEHIND THE FILTER AS WELL.. BE CAREFUL NOT TO
DAMAGE THE PLASTIC PROPELLER DEEP INSIDE THE HOLE , THIS IS WHAT SPINS AND TAKES THE WATER OUT OF THE MACHINE ....... VERY EASY TO DO ---- JUST NEED TO
DO IT ONCE TO UNDERSTAND THE PROCEDURE... UNPLUG MACHINE BEFORE CLEANING

In top load washers, if the machine goes through the cycles and then just stops at the spin cycle and leaves you with no noise and a tub full of water more than likely the lid switch is bad and not completing the circuit for cycle to continue. This is a safety precaution to prevent injury by reaching in the machine while at high speed spin. You can usually look and visually see the spot where the switch should be and if damaged. How to repair :
1) Unplug the machine. 2) At the head, or control panel, find the two screws that hold it to the case. Some are on the left and right front lower corners of the panel, and some are vertical facing s on the rear left and right side. Also on some models they are in the front but you have to pull the end caps off the sides of the control panel. 3) Remove the 2 screws and then pull the panel from the lower part of it towards you and roll it backwards. 4) Disconnect the lid switch connection in the the middle where the two grey wires and the green wire block connects to the body of the machine, usually near the middle under the panel. 5) with a flathead screwdriver pop out the two brass retainer clips on the right and left side. 6) Open the lid slightly where you can grab the case, not the tub, just the case, and pull forward and surprise!!! You just took the complete top, sides and front of the machine off. The lid switch will be attached to this portion so located it, remove the two screws that hold it in place, under the lid, and swap out with a new one. This is a cheap repair, just take your time and you'll be fine,

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/jason_4570d45317834dd3

there is two. one is under the dash board on the left hand side, or the drivers side. to best describe, put your hand on the brake pedal, go a little bit to you left, once you reach the wall, plastic, or end of carpet(trying to use best description) there is a little trap door with a handle on it that you turn 90 degrees to open that fuse box. the other one is in your engine bay. pretty much, pop the hood, look at your top left corner, there is a little black box with a cover on it, remove the cover, there are the rest of your fuses. hope this helps.

UE = Unbalance Error.
Open access door at bottom left on front of washer. Use small hose to drain water out. Door will most likely unlock when water level is lowered.

Hi, the technician manual is located under the lower front panel. There are three possible reasons for F0: 1) EEPROM ERROOR. Unplug a washer for two minutes. Try running it again. (Did not work for me). 2) MAIN RELAYS ERROR. The tech manual suggests replacing CCU. The following is what I did and it fixed the problem, however. Unplug the washer. Remove the top cover by removing the three screws on the back. The CCU unit is in the right bottom corner if standing in front of the washer – it has a lot of wiring. Plug in the unit. While listening to the CCU start any washing cycle. After pressing START you should hear the relay to click. If it clicks twice, within a less than a second, it has a problem. Unplug the washer. Without disconnecting any wires remove the CCU cage from the washer wall. Stand now on the right hand side of the washer in such way that the CCU cage is under your left hand. Pull the right upper corner of the CCU plastic cage (it has a tab) away from you, slide the cage to the right by about an inch, and pull the entire cage away from you. Now knock on the back side of the cage 4-5 times with a bit of force (watch “Armageddon” movie for more instructions on it). Install the CCU cage back. Plug in the unit. Try some washing cycle again. If it did not help, repeat the procedure. If it did not work again, see the following. 3) PUMP DRIVE ERROR. The tech manual suggests replacing CCU.

If it is F1, it is a 'flood' fault code. there is water in the bottom of the dish drawer frame, i.e. it has overflowed and spilled out. Until the water is gone, the fault code will no go away. once you get rid of the water it will work again. No special reset or anything needed.

To sort it out you can remove the lower drawer by pushing the tab on each front/lower/side to disconnect drawer from its slides then push the slides back in and rest the drawer on the floor. The drawer just sits on the sliders with the clip holding it in place. re-installing is easy but if the sliders get stuck just pull the lower edge of the drawer side out a bit with your hand to give the slider a bit more clearance to pass, you might need to lift the drawer up a bit to get the clip into its original place.

Obviously, make sure the power is OFF. (water too is a good idea but not essential)

Inside, at the back left of washers floor - there is a grey plastic base with a white plastic cover. The top white cover can be uncliped and slid to the right to remove, unclip the front with screwdriver for example, (details are moulded into the plastic).

You will see a circuit board, that board has a screw in the middle/left. That screw, and a 'vertical' piece on the left of the circuit board measure water on the floor of the washer (by conduction between screw and some metal on the vertical piece of board that almost touches the metal base of drawer floor).

Once you remove the screw, the grey plastic piece can be lifted up enough to slide some paper towels under it to dry up the water. Concentrate on drying this area under the board only to get it going, mind you drying everything will help prevent rust etc.

You dont need to remove the circuit board, unless it is wet of course which is unlikely due to the cover.

What caused the overflow can be anything from wrong type of powder to a blocked pump or cracked plastic drain pipe.

You will need to investigate the blocked drain, if it is that, try pushing the drawers back and forth quickly while the pump is going. In my case it was enough to dislodge the blockage.

If you are not keen on doing the above, and have time, then by opening the drawers and leaving it for a week or 3 'might' enough to evaporate the water.

Good Luck!!

OE is a water drain error.

Please clean the filter.
front lower left hand corner behind little door.

If after cleaning the filter the washer still will not drain the drain pump may be defective.

If you have the coil spring suspension, then your spring for that corner has really sagged[doubtful] I suspect you actually have the rear air suspension ,and the air spring for the Right/Rear has lost air, allowing the rear end to lower down greatly. Usually, you need a new air spring when one develops a leak. You may or may not be able to see the leak with a spray solution of soapy water after the spring is removed for inspection. Sometimes you have to apply about 20psi of air pressure into the spring to inflate it a bit, then put the spring under water in a big enough tank/tub of water to catch the leak that way.

After having a repair guy quote me $450 to fix this problem, I took it on myself. I first changed the lid switch as the repair suggested. No luck. Next, I changed the washer timer. Still no luck. Next, I disconnected the water tube and filled the washer with water ( a step I wish I had done first) and turned on the machine. The machine spins, drains, etc but still didn't fill. I changed the water valve. Still no luck. Finally, I changed the 50 cent fuse in the front left corner of the washer unit. Success! The fuse was the problem. The washer now fills correctly.

if you will send me your model number off your serial plate on your range will be on front open oven door or lower drawer some where and when you bought it i need to check the service bulletins before i reply but dont rate me till were done