Unit will not power on

They do not go bad for no reason, You have a problem, something is causing the outlets to trip. You will have to isolate each individually to check to include where the power comes from at the breakers. It may be as simple as a wire coming loose but the GFCI is doing its job to make sure your unit does not have an electrical short to cause a fire. The best thing to do is kill the power to this outlets, then disconnect all of the outlets making sure to use a wire nut or electrical tape to protect from arc flash. One at a time, connect an outlet and turn the power on to check. It you have had an issue with an appliance or power surge, the GFCI may have been damaged.

Hello Kyle;

My name is Peter. I am a retired field service appliance technician.

You have 3 sensors in your unit, a thermal sensor, a position sensor and a door lock switch. These components will prevent you from running but, would not affect your power.

I assume you checked your circuit breaker to make sure you have power to your washing machine.

The slightest change in power supply, electrical power surge or power outage will knock out your boards. Magnetic fields and static electricity will knock out your boards. Are your appliances near a main power supply line in your home?

All appliance manufacturers recommend surge protectors if you have control boards in your appliance. Individual wall socket surge protectors cost about $20.00 at your local Home Depot or where ever. This is a good investment.

Ok, your have 3 control boards in your unit. One is the digital display board which has nothing to due with power supply.

The others are your main control board and your control panel board. Each of which can turn off power. The highest probability is the main control board. The part number for this board is EBR 44289820. The part cost $225.00 locally. You can probably get it for $180.00 if you search the internet. This is item A450 on the following link.


Remember static electricity can not out a board. Ground yourself by rubbing your hands over something that is steel. Either unplug your unit or turn the power off at your household fuse box. There are several clips holding the board in the casing. you must push outward to remove the board. Inspect the circuit back side for burn marks. If there are no burn marks you can still have a board component failure. DO NOT DISCONNECT ANY CONNECTOR PLUG IN. When you replace the board, you will replace one at a time.

This is a clear failure of the power supply or the control panel due to the power outage and so will require that the power to the unit internally is checked. Sometimes this can be due to a fuse blown out or a control panel failure within the unit due to the intermittent fluctuation.

Marion, if there was a lightning strike and then a power surge when the power came back ON, I don't doubt what the servicemen had to say. The age of the unit plays no role in it, when something like this happens. Power surges can be killers to electrical appliances. That's why it always wise to turn the unit off during a power outage. Just ask anyone who was in Irene's path a couple of weeks ago. Power went out for days & weeks for some, when it came back ON, electrical appliances were damaged or ruined or started house fires.

Hope this helped you and thanks for choosing FixYa.

I just posted this somewhere else where this was asked, but I'll post it here too so it helps other people.

This is a common problem with the Wii. Even if it's hooked up to a surge protector. If there was a power surge, or the power went out, etc...anything, this will happen. The problem is with the AC adapter, not the Wii itself.

There is a circuit inside the AC adapter that needs to be reset. Unplug the AC adapter from the wall/surge protector outlet. Don't unlpug it from the Wii, it has to be at the outlet. You have to kill power to the adapter.

Unlpug it from the wall/surge protector outlet, and leave it unplugged for 5 or 10 minutes. This will kill power to the AC adapter, and give the circuit time to reset. When you plug the adapter back into the outlet after 5 or 10 minutes, the red led on the front should be lit up.

Kill the power to the unit. Pull the control panel down to access the control board located on the right hand side of the panel. There will be 2 wires coming in to a white plastic clip on fuse located on the side of the control board. It will have a plastic pliable shield over it. Pull the 2 wires and check for continuity across this fuse. If no continuity then go to parts house with model number of unit and ask for thermal fuse for your unit. Replace this fuse following the instructions included in the kit and use all the parts included in the kit.

Kill the power to the unit. Pull the control panel down to access the control board located on the right hand side of the panel. There will be 2 wires coming in to a white plastic clip on fuse located on the side of the control board. It will have a plastic pliable shield over it. Pull the 2 wires and check for continuity across this fuse. If no continuity then go to parts house with model number of unit and ask for thermal fuse for your unit. Replace this fuse following the instructions included in the kit and use all the parts included in the kit.

the stabiliser would have fused out so replace the fuse alone then the unit will work

You should get some indication of power even without the globe. This can however be a problem relating to the globe not being inside the projector.
Most projectors use a switch inside so they know when a lamp is installed. Some have several of these and a fuse that is on the lamp unit itself.

Replace the lamp back into the projector and apply power again. If you get lights then you have that much solved at least.

If there are still no power lights at all, then you may have had a power surge that not only killed the globe, but has blown the internal fuse for the power supply as well (or even killed the power supply)
To get access to the power supply you will need to disassemble the whole unit almost. If your not comfortable doing this, then I would advise getting it checked over by your local tech. It could save you hundreds of dollars buying a new lamp when the projector may not be worth repairing.

A) The fuse you change was the one on top just behind the control board? correct? Not the one on the door hinge side of the microwave. (as is is the Thermal cutout ) Then most likely took out the control board... i would also check the Capacitor and recifier let me know it this helped?