Gas Coupler to convert metric threading to US Standard gas pipe

Some basic helpful instructions below. Really not much to it. Convert the regulator and replace the orifice. Basic instructions should come with the kit if purchased for that specific brand and model.

In my opinion, always best to buy the conversion kit at a local appliance parts store to be sure of getting all the required parts with specific instructions for the brand and model.

Basic Step By Step Instructions:
First access the burner compartment. Usually a small access door in the lower right hand or left hand corner on some brands or models. Remove access panel.

On some brands and/or models the entire front panel must be removed. Look for screws in the door frame and/or at the base of the front panel. May have screws in both locations on some machines.

Some brands and/or models the top lid must first be lifted up wards. On many of these machines there will be no screws in the door frame. Usually only two screws are the base of the machine. Some no screws anywhere external. In this case, if there are two screws at the base remove them.

Then insert a thin blade or old credit card between the top lid and front panel about two or three inches in wards from each corner. Push in wards to release the clips while lifting up wards on the top lid. Each clip can be released separately or both at once.

Once the front panel is removed or access door is opened, look to the right of the gas control valve. There will be a tiny gas shut off valve on the gas supply pipe. Turn that tiny lever so it is across the pipe. Doing so turns off the gas to the control valve.

Than remove the wire quick disconnects from the solenoids on top of the gas valve. Than loosen and remove the hex nut on the control valve to separate the gas supply pipe from the control.

FYI:
That hex nut is reverse threaded. Which means the hex nut turns opposite (counter clock wise) to loosen it and clockwise to tighten it. Use a backup wrench to hold the pipe while turning that nut counter clock wise.

Once the pipe is removed, there will be two or more sheet metal screws holding down the plate the control is mounted onto. Remove those screws.

Than carefully remove the burner out enough to get to the wires attached to the flame sensor, which is attached to the burners shroud cover. Remove that wire quick disconnect also.

Than remove the entire burner as an assembly. Remove the brass or bronze orifice in the burners nozzle. Replace the orifice with an LP or NAT orifice to match the BTU rating of the burner.

BTU rating is on the manufacturers plate with the model and serial numbers, usually located in the door frame. Most dryers are either 18,000 or 22,000 Btu's. Install an LP or NAT orifice to match the rating.

Than convert the built into the gas valve regulator. By removing the cap on top of the tower and turning it over and reinstalling it. Cap should be marked "N" or "NAT" for natural gas and "L" or "LP" for propane.

Turning the towers cap over converts the regulator. Side of the cap facing you indicates the fuel type it is set for. Not all regulators are convertible in this manner. Check with any local appliance parts store.

Some gas control valves do not have regulators that are convertible while some have a set screw to turn to another position or a lever to turn to another position. Several variables are possible.

Appliance parts dealers are an excellent source for original replacement parts and conversion parts. Dealers are listed in the phone book under appliances.

Be sure the electrical power to the appliance is turned off, before attempting any repairs. Always check for gas leaks when reconnecting any of a gas part.

Use the reply button to add additional information or ask additional questions. Doing so will automatically move your question to the top of the forums list of questions.

DRYER SERVICE TIP:
It's always advisable to clean the entire exhaust venting system every 2 years. Or during any dryer maintenance, connection and or repairs.

Sorry, the TI-30XA does not offer unit conversion functions other than angle units. The best thing you can do is to get the conversion factor from a table in a book, or look it up in the internet, and store it into one of the three M memory places of the calculator.
Use the memory recall and divide or multiply to convert.

Example: Convert metric tons (Mg) to international avoirdupois pound (lb), and vice versa. Conversion factor is:
1 lb = 453.5937 Mg.

• Key in 453.5937 [STO] [0] to put the conversion factor in memory 0.
• To convert 17 Mg to lb, key in: 17 [÷] [RCL] [0] [=].
• To convert 5 lb to Mg, key in: 5 [×] [RCL] [0] [=].
  

Simple answer NO.

Unless Jenn-air has a conversion kit. (highly doubt this)
It would be a serious undertaking to switch out 2 burners for LP use.
Gas tubes, igniters, electronics, regulator, gas jets.
Not to mention the modifications changes needed to the stove top to make all this work. That gas regulator has to go somewhere and piping from tank/regulator/burners.

Not saying it can't be done mind you.
But think about it long and hard before committing to this job.
Small gas leak can become a huge headache later.

Here are the basics of the conversion process:

Make sure the gas is turned off and the dryer is unplugged from the power source. Extreme care needs to be taken when installing the kit and making the conversion, since there is a very obvious safety issue if the kit is not installed properly. The kit will consist of a brass fitting with a nylon pin sticking out of it. This is called the blocking pin. At the gas valve and regulator you will remove the plug on the gas valve (called a leak limiter) and replace it with the fitting containing the blocking pin that comes in the conversion kit. That will change the gas regulator pressure setting from gas to propane.
Next, you will have to change the orifice metering plug in the burner. This does just what the name implies... it meters the amount of gas that enters the combustion area. The fittings that come with the conversion kit (blocking pin and orifice metering plug) are made of brass, which is a soft metal, and since they are being connected to a much harder steel, make sure that the fittings are not overtightened. I generally use some pipe dope on the threads. Once the conversion is completed, you want to check for leaks. I generally mix up some soapy water and spray it around the fittings to check for leaks. Look for bubbling which is a sign that there is a leak. The last thing to do is to reassemble the dryer. Start it up and make sure that it is operating correctly and that there are no obvious smells that would indicate a leak. If so, shut down immediately.
These are the basic steps for a gas/LP conversion. If there is any doubt that you feel comfortable making the conversion, then I recommend that you contact an appliance technician for assistance. Hope this helped and best wishes.

Check out the link that I am providing for information regarding the part you are looking for. http://www.repairclinic.com/Appliance-Parts?s=t-LDG712-%3d%3dc237

Here are the basics of the conversion process:

Make sure the gas is turned off and the dryer is unplugged from the power source.The first thing that you will need to do is purchase a gas dryer conversion kit. Extreme care needs to be taken when installing the kit and making the conversion, since there is a very obvious safety issue if the kit is not installed properly. The kit will consist of a brass fitting with a nylon pin sticking out of it. This is called the blocking pin. At the gas valve and regulator you will remove the plug on the gas valve (called a leak limiter) and replace it with the fitting containing the blocking pin that comes in the conversion kit. That will change the gas regulator pressure setting from gas to propane.
Next, you will have to change the orifice metering plug in the burner. This does just what the name implies... it meters the amount of gas that enters the combustion area. The fittings that come with the conversion kit (blocking pin and orifice metering plug) are made of brass, which is a soft metal, and since they are being connected to a much harder steel, make sure that the fittings are not overtightened. I generally use some pipe dope on the threads. Once the conversion is completed, you want to check for leaks. I generally mix up some soapy water and spray it around the fittings to check for leaks. Look for bubbling which is a sign that there is a leak. The last thing to do is to reassemble the dryer. Start it up and make sure that it is operating correctly and that there are no obvious smells that would indicate a leak. If so, shut down immediately.
These are the basic steps for a gas/LP conversion. If there is any doubt that you feel comfortable making the conversion, then I recommend that you contact an appliance technician for assistance. Hope this helped and best wishes.

There are basically two types of ranges to deal with:



those with sealed top burners, which are pretty much the standard today, and the conventional, 'non-sealed' ones.
While they operate in much the same way, their conversion is usually different. There are still a few ranges that use adjustable sealed burner orifices, but most are 'fixed' and must be individually replaced to convert each burner from one fuel to another.

(An orifice is simply a small brass fitting with a specifically sized hole very accurately drilled through it, and, if adjustable, has a provision to change the size of this hole by turning closed a threaded portion).
Either way, basically what you're doing when going from natural gas to LP is changing to a smaller orifice to allow for the higher pressure supplied by the 'bottled' gas (The available energy in each ft of gas is different too, but for our purpose here that's not important). Natural gas supplies typically run around a pressure of 5.5 inches water column, while LP runs at twice that pressure, averaging around 11 inches.

The orifice through which the gas travels to the burner must be smaller to accommodate this difference.
Adjustable orifices are simply 'snugged' down, clockwise, with a 1/2 inch open-end wrench, to convert them. Nearly all oven burners use these too - more about that in a minute.
Fixed orifices are replaced, and the good news is: the LP parts are usually included with the new range. On some brands (GE being one), the unused set is attached to a storage point on the stove, and this is a great idea. This way, they can't get lost, and if you ever want to convert back, there they are!
The not-so-good news: these little top burner orifices very often require a metric wrench to remove & install. And some can't be changed without a very slender wrench or nut driver.

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/craig_3fa289bf857b1a3c

Hi, Kelly,

I converted one a few years back, and got most all of the parts I needed from the local gas company. The few parts they didn't have, I got from Lowe's. I got something I wasn't expecting in the bargain - expert advice at the gas company. They just loved talking about converting to NatGas and couldn't have been more helpful. Try your local company. I bet they have the same type of folks there. By the bye, some gas co's will make the conversion to NatGas for you for free. Check it out!

Regards! --W/D--

yes it is very much necessary. the natural gas pressure is much lower that LP. it is @3.5 in, water column. The monometer is a pressure reading instrument that will tell what pressure is present at the gas source, appliance gas manifold and gas valve. Read the conversion kit instructions well. And adjust pressure according to data plate specifications. A u-tube water monometer is the best and most accurate however a standard analog will surfice. Please use caution.

Where did you purchase the kit? Can you name the store with number or list the website? Also the part number information. Thanks