Re: Can I replace the sensor for a Radio Shack 63-1090?
I presume by sensor you mean the remote sensor not the main unit which also has sensors? When you buy the 1090 you get one external/remote sensor which is also labeled 1090. If you buy extra sensors they are 1092's. Another new 1092 sensor should work with your 1090 it does on mine. You can have up to 3 remotes just set the channel on them. Getting one is the problem. If your talking of stripping the box down to replace the sensor , well I am sure more than the sensor would have a fault!
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The water level sensor fell into the fan. Unplug the humidifier from the wall, stick your hand in between the fan blade and locate the sensor. It is a small black rectangular piece the size of a nickel but rectangular and 3 nickels thick. It also has a 2 inch stem sticking out of that clicks back and forth when you push it. Stick the sensor back into the sensor whole and the flashing f will go away and the humidifier will come on again.
The plastic piece that is moulded to the inner door that holds up the shelf on a fisher & paykel fridge has cracked and no longer holds the shelf. Can I buy a new door liner or does the whole door need to be replaced?
You can get them from the Crane Website: http://shop.crane-usa.com/products/category/1722.214.171.124.563.796126.96.36.199?pp=8&pg=3
But the bottom unit of mine is no longer working and I could send the top part to you instead of throwing the whole thing out.
Unplug the electrical wiring from the sending unit.
Using an ohmmeter, measure the resistance between the terminal and the sending unit's metal body
Infinite resistance or zero resistance: the sending unit is bad, replace the sender with a new one.
Other than infinite or zero resistance: continue test.
Remove the temperature sender from the engine.
Position the sending unit so the metal shaft (opposite end from the electrical connectors) is in a pot of water. Make sure that the electrical connector is not submerged and only the tip of the sending unit's body is in the water.
Heat the pot of water at a medium rate. While the water is warming, continue to measure the resistance of the terminal and the metal body of the sending unit:
As the water warms up, the resistance goes down in a steady manner: the sending unit is good.
As the water warms up, the resistance does not change or changes in erratic jumps: the sender is bad, replace it with a new one.
Install the good or new sending unit into the engine, then connect the negative battery cable.
With the engine cold, remove the ECT sensor.
Immerse the tip of the sensor in container of water.
Connect a digital ohmmeter to the two terminals of the sensor.
Using a calibrated thermometer, compare the resistance of the sensor to the temperature of the water. Refer to the sensor resistance illustration.
Repeat the test at two other temperature points, heating or cooling the water as necessary.
If the sensor does not meet specification, it must be replaced.
Submerge the end of the temperature sensor in cold or hot water and check resistance
Temperature-to-resistance relationship of the ECT and MAT sensors
Prepare to get dirty. Use a mug with a handle to lift the water out of the toilet bowl into a bucket. Reduce the water level until it stops increasing from the backflow from the Saniflo. Disconnect the electrical connections (isolate the unit first) Disconnect the outflow pipe but be prepared for some spillage from any vertical pipe in your domestic installation. Ease the boot off the WC soil pipe, Disconnect any breathers. Slide the unit out from behind the toilet but maintaining a backward tipping angle to prevent water inside the unit from spilling out of the boot. Take the whole unit outside, keeping it tipped backwards. Take the lid off, noting how the seal is oriented for reassembly. Use a high pressure garden hose to clean out the interior and inspect.
Check the rubber diaphragm on the bottom of the sensor unit. These develop corrugations and become slack over time. If so it will have insufficient power to depress and release the microswitch within the sensor unit.
If your unit filled the toilet bowl with soiled water and the pump kept running, it is likely that the non-return valve beneath the outlet pipe is faulty. On some models the valve is Y shaped and the branch of the Y is a rolling ball that falls by gravity when the pump switches off. Replace the valve.
If your unit kept running but with clean water in the bowl, it is likely your diaphragm is faulty. Check for corrugations and make sure it is no longer caked with accumulated solid waste. If you cannot buy a new sensor unit complete with diaphragm, you may need a new Saniflo. Both of my Saniflo units stopped working satisfactorily after 10 years. My German built unit has now been working without fault for 19 years.