SD400 broken screen
found this guide on the net once, try it out and let us know what you think:
WARNING: this repair voids your warranty and may damage your camera. Perform at your own risk. The publisher of this site is not responsible for any damage you cause.
This replacement is of medium difficulty. If you have ever ?built? a computer from parts, you are probably capable of it. If you are patient, orderly, and meticulous, you can probably do it. But you do risk breaking your camera even further, so don?t do it if you won?t accept that risk!
Be carefully that you are grounded and thus do not harm the camera via static discharge. Google the terms ?grounding? and ?static discharge? if you need more info.
I only performed this operation on a Canon SD300 / Ixus 40, but readers have reported that it is the same on the SD200 / Ixus 30 and on the SD400 / Ixus 50.
Read all of the instructions before proceeding. Within each step, I don?t necessarily use exact chronological order.
Tools: a small Phillips head screwdriver and a smaller flathead screwdriver (used for prying).
Step 1. Ascertain what is broken.
Symptom: your screen still glows with light, but shows crazy colors or a visible crack surrounded by crazy colors.
Problem: your LCD screen is broken but your backlight still works. You need only purchase a new LCD screen.
Symptom: your LCD does not glow.
Problem: your backlight is probably broken. This didn?t happen to me, so I don?t give any further advice about this problem on this page. However, the information on this page will take you about 60% of the way to replacing the backlight as well, so it may be useful.
Step 2. Order a replacement screen.
UK: H. Lehmann's Ltd: +44 (0)1782 413 611 at a cost of 33 GBP (including shipping)
US: Canon? +1 732 521 7230 / +1 800-828-4040 at a cost of around 66$ (including shipping)
The part number for the SD-300 / Ixus 40 LCD screen (without backlight) is: ck9-1103
The part number is the same in the US & UK.
I do not know whether the SD-200 / Ixus 30 LCD / SD-400 / Ixus 50 LCD part number is the same..
Step 3. Open the camera
- Remove 6 screws in total: 2 from the left side, 2 from the right side, and 2 from the bottom.
- Gently pry open the case
- The plate covering the ?grommet? to which you attach the strap will fall off. So will the round grommet. Don?t worry about it.
Step 4. Remove the screen & backlight assembly from the back of the camera
- Remove the screw from the upper right corner of the backlight/LCD package. Note: this screw is of different size to those you have already removed. Keep it separate.
- Be careful of the tongue extending from the bottom right corner of the backlight/LCD package. It?s very tiny and easy to miss. You want to be sure to slide it out, because it?s easy to just break the plastic into which the tongue slides. (I did. Not a huge crisis, but I wish I hadn?t!)
- There is a tab on the left side of the backlight/LCD package. Pull it back slightly so you can lift the backlight/LCD package. (I used the flathead screwdriver to pry it off.)
- You should now be able to lift up the backlight/LCD package. It will still be connected to the camera body via two ribbon cables.
Step 5. Separate the LCD from the backlight
- There are a number of fiddly plastic/metal tabs holding the two together. Just gently pry and poke until you have separated them. It?s a bit time consuming, but I can?t really give better instructions than these.
- You should be left with the LCD totally separate from the backlight, but still connected to the camera via a ribbon cable.
- The backlight should also remain connected to the camera via a ribbon cable.
Step 6. Undo the LCD ribbon cable
- The LCD ribbon cable extends under the bottom of the camera (actually passing under the tripod screw hole, which cannot be removed). It re-appears in the front of the camera and is connected to a socket. The socket is rather like a DIMM socket on a computer. It has a flat, black, clasp which is folded down to hold the ribbon cable in the socket.
- Examine carefully the way the ribbon cable is attached to the socket. Note that it is pushed in entirely, so that the wider part of the cable (with two holes at either side of it) is flush against the socket.
- GENTLY lift the clasp (I used the flathead screwdriver). It should swivel up and the ribbon cable should fall out. DO NOT YET PULL THE RIBBON OUT OF THE CAMERA.
Step 7. Totally remove the LCD
- Tape a long, narrow strip of paper to the end of the ribbon cable. This paper is to help you thread the ribbon cable of the new LCD back through the inside of the camera.
- Note how the ribbon cable is threaded under the tripod mount to the front of the camera. Wiggle it around a bit, get a feel for it. Sliding the new one back through is a bit tough, so experiment with how this one fits and where it goes.
- Gently pull the ribbon cable out from under the tripod mount, leaving the broken LCD screen now completely detached from the camera. Make sure to leave the paper threaded through the camera so that you can tape it to the new LCD?s ribbon cable and pull that one back through.
- If you messed up with the paper, don?t worry. You can still push the new ribbon cable through: it just takes some wriggling and some time!
- You have now got to go through the process in reverse, installing the new LCD screen.
- Threading the LCD ribbon cable back under the tripod mounting screw is tough. Just keep sliding it back and forth and exert pressure to push it through. It will go through, eventually.
- As you connect the LCD ribbon cable, read the ?white screen? problem below, so that you do not suffer from it!
1. My screen just shows white or gray. (E.g. white screen, white display). What did I do wrong?
A. The ribbon cable that connects the LCD to the circuit board was not inserted deeply enough. The end of the ribbon cable has a narrow portion, then a very small much wider portion with two holes at either end, then it narrows again. The very tip should be inserted into the "socket" deeply enough that the wider portion is pressed right up against the "socket." Physically, it cannot be inserted more deeply.
It may help you to use two wooden or plastic toothpicks, one in each of the small holes at the end of the cable, to push the cable into the socket."
If you feel like supporting the author of this thread, go to his website through this link: http://www.cl.cam.ac.uk/~jo262/broken_lcd_cracked_screen_canon_sd-300_sd-200_ixus-40_ixus-30.html