I went to dry a load of clothes, the drum light was on I loaded it up pressed the button and - nothing. No buttons worked tried unplugging and plugging. Turned to the internet, someone said to push multiple random buttons at once.. I did and it worked, but now it is an everytime thing, and it seems to be getting more fickle about wanting to start. I paid big bucks for this thing that I thought would last me more than 2 years. Any clues what this problem might be?
I checked everything on mine. Open the door and the light came on but nothing lit up on the control panel. I was able to track it down to the transformer being bad on the 115 volt side. I desoldered it and replaced it with another matching transformer and sure enough it works like new. You can run an ohm test on the terminals it should have 3 sets of two that will OHM out if working correctly. The transformer is ELYTONE EPS-4-24-W here is a PDF http://www.elytone.com.tw/pdf/EPS.pdf. Good luck all!
Posted on Oct 04, 2012
Front Panel lights not working? Dryer inside light does work? I fixed this twice already on my dryer. Please read this whole explanation I live in New Orleans where the humidity is very high. I have a laundry room where my Washer and Dryer reside. Kenmore HE4T. I noticed that when I shut the laundry room door, my central A/C pulls hot air from outside the house via the dryer exhaust duct. This causes moisture to build on the inside of the dryer and especially the front control panel. Did you ever see moisture on your dryer?s door even when there were no clothes in it? The moisture collects on the Silicon board that controls the dyers function and basically causes a short. This is what I do to fix it. You will need a ¼ nut driver or socket. 1. Confirm that you have power to the dryer <- is the inside dryer light on when you open the door. YES- keep reading.. NO ? find the circuit breaker and reset it. 2. UNPUG THE DRYER! ! ! ! ! ! ! ! 3. Find the 3 screws in the back of the dryer that hold the dryer lid on. Unscrew them and slid the lid back and lift off. Is there moisture on the inside of the lid? 4. Find the 2 screws that hold down the front control panel. They should be silver and will be on top. Do not remove the inside gold screws. 5. Find the 3 screws that hold down the power control panel on the top left side of the dryer. Probably has a high voltage warning sticker on it. 6. Lift the power control panel (sheet metal) part and move it to the right so it lays on the dyers drum. There are some wires attached to it and unless you are a very handy person, I wouldn?t remove them. 7. Lift the front control panel straight up until it comes out of the dryer. There should be some wires that attach this piece to the power control panel. If you are handy, you can remove these 2 clip-on wires from the power control panel by squeezing the black connector locking clip and releasing it from the panel. 8. If you flip the control panel around you may notice moisture on the green silicon chips. Get a hairdryer and take your time to dry them. 9. Dry all components of the dryer with a hairdryer. 10. Put everything back together except for the lid and all the screws. Remember that the front control panel slides down first and then the power control panel sits on top second. Plug the dryer in and see if you get lights, but don?t start the dryer. Unplug the dryer and replace all the screws and the lid. The problem is that once the dryer gets wet from the moisture, it never dries enough for it to start working again. This is a bad design from Sears/Whirlpool. I learn my lesson that just because its more expensive doesn?t make it more better. I now keep my dryer and washer door open all the time even when there are no clothes in it. This lets the moisture escape into the house rather than collect in the dryer. I hope this helps at least one person. Thanks Jason Kennedy from New Orleans
Posted on Aug 14, 2007
We had the same problem. None of the buttons would light up except the control lock button, and the door light continued to work. Humidity building up on inside door face.
Had an extended warranty from Sears.
The dryer didn't work for 3 days... then today (when the repair man comes, it starts working again).
He diagnosed it as a faulty console. Has to replace the console - part # SUB CNTRL-EL part $344.08
Posted on Sep 24, 2010
Someone above mentioned leaving the dryer door open to prevent moisture buildup. Is there a special way to do this without having the interior light come on?
Oh... someone above asked about part numbers:
SUB CNTRL-EL part number on my ticket is: 26 110 280100 1
I think the most important portion is the 280100 cause that's what the technician referred to the part as.
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Jason Kennedy/New Orleans solution worked up here in Colorado. I followed his procedure and used a hair dryer to get it working again. There was a layer of lint dust on the PCB's maybe this had something to do with it. Unfortunately the fix was only temporary, however, and now the dryer is dead again.
I had to go through the dreaded Sears "1-800-4My-Home" service line and there will be a service guy coming in 5 days from now. Getting in touch with them was an experience unto itself and maybe the subject of separate posting on another site.
Posted on Dec 31, 2007
Had this problem....ordered front panel from Whirlpool ($269). Showed up 20 days later and replaced myself (easy). Fixed!!
Posted on Nov 08, 2007
I am having exactly the same problem however the only buton that works is The panel lock, if you keep it pressed for a few seconds it will beep and the led will light up. Otherwise nothing works. I checked the Front control panel switches according to the Service sheets, seems fine, I changed the main control board, same thing. I'm puzzled. Please post how you fixed your problem. Thank you.
Posted on Aug 30, 2007
I had to replace the whole front control panel, it was easy to do , expensive- but not nearly the price that Sears wanted to charge. I still would not recommend anything from Sears.
Posted on Aug 15, 2007
Sear's says it is not the part that is covered under the 2 year warranty. That is the only reason I called Sear's in the first place, I was hoping that the part that went wrong was under the 2 year warranty... no such luck. I'm going to replace one of the parts myself. It is on backorder when I try it I will follow up. I appreciate everyones input.
Posted on Jun 12, 2007
this is jta from chicago, it's been hot as hell here so I also had humidity building up inside my dryer (hot humid air coming in the exhaust). my unit was unpluged & partially disassemble while looking for the defective part, and searching the internet for answers. Put the unit back together and now that it's dry it works fine. I just leave the door open and all is well.
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Aebles, in your post, I told him to forget it, and how dissapointing that such an expensive dryer does not even last 2 years, this smart sensor board is warranteed for 2 years, part only. If it's under 2 years have them replace it. I had one once with the same problem and believe it or not it turned out to be the thermal fuse. Usually, if these fail, they're done.This one tested good. It drove me crazy. I changed out that fuse and never got that call back. Catriver.
Posted on Jun 10, 2007
There may be a micro-controller chip on board that has had its boot loader program scrambled. open the unit and look on board for the word "reset" and it may be next to a board mounted switch or connector pins
Posted on May 29, 2007
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Thank you for your suggestion. I will give it a try!
I had Sears come on the chance that my dryer problem still might be covered under warranty for the SENSOR SMART electronic control board, but I was shocked as heck when the technician said it could be one or two things one is the central electronic (1 CNTRL-ELE) for $215.31 and/or 1 Sub central electronic (1 SUB CNTRL-EL) for $525.79 for a possible grand total of $648.96 after taxes. This is for parts only not labor. I told him to forget it, and how dissapointing that such an expensive dryer does not even last 2 years. It is not even paid for yet. Does anyone know the part #'s for these parts? I just want to check and see if they really cost that much thru a part suppy place. I will try to repair it myself if they cost less. Kenmore Elite HE electric dryer model # 110.85862400
My HE-4T gas dryer just quit...no lites except interior lite. It is less
than 2 years old. My last Sears dryer lasted 20 years and still worked
when I gave it away, and now I am out of warranty with an expensive
repair on a new new $1000+ unit?
Our dryer just quit. Then it started working and would continually beep during all of the cycles. Then it would quit again. We have been limping along for approximately 5 months. Now it definitely seems dead. It is definitely outside of the warranty period but certainly less than 2 1/2 years old.
I Have de same problem il faut les poursuivre envoit leur une lettre de mise en demeure et ils n'auront pas le choix.
good luck
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