Question about Samsung SyncMaster 175V 17" LCD Monitor

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Monitor dark I have a Samsung 175V monitor. The LCD is dark but will work intermittently. When it stops woking, the green power light flashes. When I unplug the video cable from the monitor, a "signal loss" message appears and moves around the screen. I have tried two other monitors using the same cable and they both work. Is the problem with this monitor worth fixing? Are repair parts available and cost effective? Any help will be greatly appreciated !! Thank You !

Posted by Joe Takayama on

  • paintba11er Nov 06, 2007

    I have the same problem, and the screen resolution thing doesn't work.. I think that the bulb is out or something like that, but I hope that it isn't that because that costs money to fix... :-\



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I had a similar problem with this monitor, mine was dim all the time to the point you cant use it, but the MENU icon was bright as new... also if cable was unplugged the box would float around as normal.... anyway I fixed it by taking it all apart and pushing in the socketed chip.. it clicked like it moved, I also pushed on the variable resistors on the power supply... now it works!!! First time since it quite working long time ago

Posted on Mar 01, 2008

  • Anonymous Mar 01, 2008

    More info on the Dim/fuzzy problem.. When I took it all apart it did work perfectly, until I put it all back together then it quit working again. After about 2hrs of "playing around" I realized the big metal backbone (visible by removeing the entire rear plastic cover) was causing some type of problem since the monitor would work fine until that part was re-installed. After a couple hours of getting mad and checking for shorts and thinking it was creating electrical interference I noticed the main circuit board was extremely bent.. it was bent down in a corner near a ground post. This ground post was being pushed down by the metal cover. By reinstalling the cover this was causing the ground post to move down a little more, pushing on the board even more... I decided to shorten this post and after I cut it I noticed it was a little bit loose... then I realized it was a multi layer circuit board and the ground attaches to several layers.. not just the bottom... so I re-soldered it with about 1/8" of height taken out of it and NO MORE PROBLEMS AT ALL - EVEN RE-ASSEMBLED. Im pretty sure anybody experiencing a dim screen and/or "locked" auto buttons have this exact problem. I did notice depending on how I wiggled the ground post I would either get a dim screen, locked auto button, or both.



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Try running a low screen res at first, like 640 x 480, then gradually build up from there to the advertised max res for the monitor.

Posted on May 29, 2007


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copied from

I have a Samsung Syncmaster 175v Mfg Oct '03 displaying the __ White Screen . I removed the screws on the back , removed base stand, separated case with flat screwdriver starting at bottom, unplugged the small wire to the panel menu buttons , removed metal cover from back of LCD. Now you can see the powerboard \ inverterboard combo and the attached video signalboard. Follow the 30 wire plug to the LCD screen, the 30 wire plug goes under a metal panel , remove the 3 small screws securing the panel and you will see the hidden LCD screenboard. Very close to where the 30 wire plug attaches to this screenboard on the Rightside you will see with a magnifying glass a SurfaceMounted Fuse named F1 with a value? of "K". On my LCD the fuse tested with a volt-ohmmeter to be Open or Blown. The right thing to do would be to replace the fuse however I acquired my LCD from a trashcan / dumpster so I stretched a drop of solder connecting both sides of the fuse. Now I do not have the protection from power failures and surges that the fuse could offer but upon reassembly my screen works like new again .
PS : i'm not an expert at anything...x'cept maybe dumpster diving. God Bless

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I had the same problem, took it all apart and pushed on the socketed chip, it made a click noise and it works now. I also pushed on everything including the variable resistors. First time it's worked since it quit working!!

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