I have owned it since new and it's been working great until it just stopped working. I checked all the wiring and all is good, fuse is good. It started out that the face would sorta get slower on opening or stop 1\2 way and try to restart and now it just doesn't open even if you try to manually open it. I get not sound, no movement anymore. Anybody have an idea what it may be? I rather keep this head unit instead of buying a new one if this would be an easy fix.
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Thanks that worked for me to. To change the code open.....enter current
code.......turn the metal wheel (saying set ->) clockwise until it
stops.........set the new code........... turn the metal wheel anti clockwise
until it stops.......the new code is set.
If you have located what sounds like the problem, only you can determine how bad it is-I have opened harnesses that had damage done to them, and spliced, one-by-one new wiring to repair damaged sections, you just have to take your time. If you like the car and it's in good condition the cost of doing this is more a matter of investing time than money since it is a matter of providing labor to fix it. You sound like you are pretty handy, most people probably don't know enough about their cars to trace and find a wiring problem, so that's half the battle. The other half is to make up your mind to fix it, be it by repairing the damaged area of going a step further and replacing a harness section.
You need to remove the cover from the motor unit and check the limit switch assembly. You could have a broken or loose wire. Watch the operation and you should be able to tell what is wrong.
First, be safe if you are planning on opening the drill. Make sure the cord is unplugged. Check the motor to see if any of the wires look severed or a brush is loose. Most newer drills are more powerful, even for the inexpensive ones, than the older drills. They also tend to use much less power. So the recommendation is, if it is not for sentimental purposes, a new drill might be in order.
I had no power to my driver's door pwr window switches. I went on line and somebody said for me to wiggle the wiring harness to the door (after opening it) and sure enough it was a bad wire. I guess after 15 years of opening and closing the door, the bendig motion was breaking wires. My bother-in-law found the bad wire and snaked a new one in, and it has worked great ever since. Good luck
sounds like the wiring between the door and the body or the {door-jamb} a rubber boot help protect and hide all the wiring this is common as common can be ....1st check to ensure all your fuses are properly seated into the fuse box sometimes they become loose then test them with a test light if all is good then check for power at the switch if no power is present then proceed to the rubber boot it should simply be squeezed and will pull out at each end check for power between the two points you will need to penetrate the wire until you find a good power follow it up until no power is found on the same wire this will be your break in the wire ..repair with a wire connector or a new length of wire ..
use a testlight turn on the LS light ground the test light touch the pin inside the lamp socket if it lights look for a bad ground if it does not check your fuses or, run a new power wire under your truck secured with zip ties from the switch
good morning and welcome to fixya. not a bad setup you have here at all, you ned to start by checking the speaker wires inside the box to the connector inside and then the wires from connector to amp on outside. if everything looks fine there, then you need to check the amp for power out of the rca plugs to make sure the channel is not dead. if you are looking for a new amp you can try several different ones from fosgates new line up to soundstream's. im running 4 polk momo 12's on the tarantula amp and love it. they are great amps. hifonics also has a new line up pretty cool stuff, heard really good things about there stuff to. good luck and let me know so i can help you out.
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