I took the back cover off (inside the freezer) and it is frosted up on a small portion of the coils in the upper right corner of the freezer. I had a freezer do this before, and the technician changed a heater bulb that keeps the back from freezing. I don't see one in this freezer.
You will need to replace the "defrost thermostat" located on the freezer coils. Here is the part you need.
SOURCE: Amana bottom freezer/ refrigerator
Geezer, sounds like a defrost issue. I usually find the bi-metal to be the culprit on this model. Check out the pic. You will have to remove the back panel in the freezer and defrost the evaporator. Remove the ice maker if there is one. The back cover has 4 quarter inch screws. remove those. The air vent has 2 plastic clips one each side and one on the bottom, push in and pull the grill off. The thermistor cover has a slot for a flat blade screw driver,push in and pull the cover off. The thermistor will now slide behind the back panel. Check the bi-metal for buldging. As long as the evaporator fan is working, it's probably a defrost problem.
SOURCE: SZD27MW - Freezer Fan not working - temp runs 40 midway in freezer
Voltage is either 240V or 110V either way it is stamped on the fan motor. You have a sensor controlling the fan and heater which could have gone open circuit and on some cabinets they use the neutral through the heater to bring in the fan so you could have a heater gone. You can bypass the sensor but this should not be a long term solution as it is a safety mechanism. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: Amana AFD2535DEW freezer/refrigerator with intermittent tempurature swings
I had the same issue. It was the relay overload which essentially provides the extra boost to get the compressor going. The switch tries for about 10 seconds before giving up and then retries 3 - 4 minutes later. In the early stages of failure, eventually it will work and the compressor will kick on. But eventually the switch will fail and will just cycle through the 10 second attempt every 3 to 4 minutes. The part is about $35 - part number 67005560.
SOURCE: Freezer not freezing properly, ice on back wall
Ice on the back wall indicates a problem with the defrost cycle. The ice builds up and starts to choke off the air flow, so your symptoms would indicate that may be happening.
Defrost problems are usually any of the three components, the heater element, the defrost termination temp switch, or the defrost timer.
SOURCE: freezer is building up frost and refrigerator is not cold enoough
Almost certainly, you have a leak within the freezer compartment.
The cooling system will use a divertor valve to concentrate coolant to the fridge or freezer compartment - whichever is necessary to maintain selected temperatures.
If a seal within either compartment is compromised and leaks then the coolant will be excessively diverted to that area in an attempt to lower it's temperature - the other section will suffer since more coolant is diverted to the weaker area; the weaker area that is being excessively cooled will also have more moist air circulating, hence moisture will contribute to a build up of ice - exacerbating the problem.
Ensure that both fridge and freezer doors are closing properly, if they appear to be secure then also check that the seals are airtight - there should be no ice accumulating around them.
You might need to re-align the doors, or less likely, replace the door seals.
Please reply if you require further clarification or help.
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