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There are Five Main reasons that this will happen
1 - A bad run capacitor (silver or metal capacitor)
It’s either shorted, grounded or open.
If it’s shorted a lot of times it will bulge out, (sometimes slightly)
2 - A bad start kit ( plastic capacitor and Relay connected to it )
The capacitor is either shorted or open
The relay either has an open coil between terminals #1 and #5
Or the relay is stuck.
Any time you change the capacitor or relay you should change
the other, especially if they are over a year old.
3 - A loose, burnt or disconnected wire
4 - Wired wrong
5 Compressor is locked up
I would look for another outlet for you to plug it in before you start anything elaborate. I assume you've done this already but spin the motor/blade. If it spins and there is little or no play in the shaft or blades causing a blade to bind up the mechanical part seems ok.
Now if you have a volt meter First check the motor for voltage, Then if you have voltage, compare it to the rating on the motor. Usually a voltage within 10% is ok. Next test resistance on the wires of the motor any resistance and the winding is probably okay. If not then the motor is out again. If you have lost voltage the control board is your next part to test. No voltage out to the motor there on the board plug and the board is the problem Power there woudl mean the motor has too high a resistance and Id check the resistance on a differant known good motor before replacing it. just so you know where you started.
We all appear to be in the same mess --Thanx Haier
This product says its Amana, but rest assured it is an Haier
The problem is most likely with the engineering design of the board. Im not an electrical engineer so be careful litning to me to closely :) There is only a half bridge rectifier on this board and 2 zener diodes that clamp down on the voltage. My guess on yours is the Zeners have been shorted and no longer clamping voltage down to aroun 24 volts for the low side of the board. I spoke with Haier and they have no schematics that state the zener specifications. They also said there was a 6 month backorder on ordering a new board. Oh and by the way if you want to order a new board and wait 6 months for the backorder it would cost you 75.00. All this jsut to repeat the problem again, because of bad design. O well ----- I wish products were not made better, so I wouldnt have to fill guilty about putting this in the landfills.
You can try cleaning the humidity sensor, which is on a circuit board housed in a nylon clip attached to the cooling coils. The sensor is in a plastic clip, which can be opened up and cleaned. Some report success. Didn't work for me.
I ended up rewiring the unit so that a 5v control line from the lower relay board goes through the SPDT bucket full switch, turning on the control board when full (so it beeps), but otherwise enabling the compressor and fan. The fan and compressor are controlled by relays, which are driven by a ULN2003AN relay driver. I fed the empty side of the full bucket switch back into the relay driver to turn on the compress and the fan on high. I plan to put a dehumidistat in series with this control line; now it just runs till the bucket is full. A Broan DH100W dehumidistat is 20 bucks. Could also put in a rotary switch to control the fan speed, but for me high is enough.
I think this machine is made by Goldstar for Kenmore and Delonghi. Stuff is just made to break and through away these days, which is a shame.
the control board is a very simple design and it is to signal and switch options like fan speed, power on/off, humidity up/down and sets the on/off run time. Like above the board does collect dust,but the true problem runs deeper.
My unit was stuck in run mode with the fan speed, humidity and run timmer non functioning. the unit worked and the power switch turned it on and off. The display said ON
I removed the front cover (two screws) and slight pressure on the side of the cover to remove it. This exposes the control board. The control board can be removed by removing the 6 screws on the board. the cable can then be removed by pulling out the multi-pin ribbon cable.
I diagnosed that only two of the 5 push button switched were functioning. There was also dust and mold on the board. This board is poorly protected from the moist air entering the unit and the constand moisture causes corrosion on the board, the switched seem to be the weak link.
By using a multi meter I noted that only the power switch and the humidity down button were making contact when pressed. Now it all came together. I could turn it on and off. and if you press the humidity down button to the lowers setting (ON) means run all the time.
I used a elecronic contact cleaner and sprayed it into each of the switches. I wiggled it around and blew it out with canned air. It took a few wiggles and blasts but all switched then made contact. I the board back on and tested all functions and it was like new. The contact cleaner should keep it protected for a while. The non functioning of the switches works both ways. They can stick on also. This would explain most of the other control problems. These switched are common and can be picked up at Radio Shack. On a do-it-yourself bananna scale it was a 2 for me, but I had the tools and the spray. I am not sure what sears gets for the PC control board,but this is the issue and if they were to address this the unit complaints would drop greatly.
You have to remove the entire wrapper to get to the control circuit board, make sure you unplug unit!! Locate the small white wires that plug into the board and go to the humidity switch.Unplug the connector at the board and plug the machine in and see if everything runs. ps make sure you reinstall the bucket or unit will not run. If machine runs replace that humidity control. The plug on the board is usually white. The other white wire is 4 the light. I hope this helps./