No power to my refrigerator and heater

How old?

Hi,

Many times a freezer and/or refrigeratordo not work right because of a dirty condenser coil...there are also many otherthings that can go wrong. If you are hearing a clicking or buzzing then check out thelast two tips.

If your refrigerator is running but warm, then...

Check out these tips that I wrote about that... it is a great place to starttrouble shooting your unit...and something that you can do rather then callinga repair person to do a simple thing for you...

Refrigerator Condenser Coil Cleaning Refrigerator Repair

Refrigerator Troubleshooting Refrigerator Compressor

Refrigerator Compressor Start Capacitor and Start Relay
Refrigerator or Freezer not Cooling or Getting Cold

heatman101
..

Hi,

Insufficient cooling is a fridge repair job that you can do without the help of a professional. Often the fridge has a frost-free failure, or the compressor is faulty but there are many other reasons for a fridge not cooling properly.
Step 1 – Find the Problem

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Good luck......

Hello,

Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.

Good luck......

Hello,
Your first job is to locate the source of the problem. Consider each of the following:

* Gaskets - Make sure the gaskets/seals are not torn and are sealing properly.
* Evaporator fan – Make sure it is working. If it is now working you may have a problem with the fan motor. Check for power to the motor and also examine the fan switches around the door (not all fridges have these switches).
* Air damper – Sometimes the air damper will not open up to allow the cold air from the freezer part to blow into the fridge section.
* Condenser coils – Check to see that the condenser coils don’t have a dust build-up and that the condenser motor is working.
* Compressor – Make sure your compressor is working with on and off clicking noises.

Step 2 – Frost-Free Failure

This is the most common cooling problem in fridges. Expose the evaporator coils by accessing the panel in the freezer section. The coils in the freezer section can sometimes get clogged up with frost. This can stop the evaporator fan motor from blowing cold air around, or cause the fan to hit it and stop, or become noisy. The defrost timer can be a bit tricky to find but it is usually located behind the back bottom corners of the fridge, although they can sometimes be found in the ceiling of the fresh food section, or behind the cold control cover.
Step 3 – Find the Timer

When you find the timer, turn the wheel-like screw slowly with a screwdriver until the fridge shuts off. The refrigerator is now defrosting. If you find that the fridge starts now, you will need to replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer.
Step 4 – Volt Test

If the heaters do not come on, use a volt meter to ohm test the defrost heater or volt test for 120 volts to the heater. You can bypass the defrost thermostat if you haven’t got power to the defrost heater to check if the defrost heater will come on. To bypass the thermostat, join the two wires together. Replace the defrost thermostat and the defrost timer if the heater comes on now.

If there is a ticking or squealing noise in the defrost timer, or it seems hot to touch, replace it.

Many fridges have and inline fuse on both sides of the defrost heater. You will need to replace the whole heater if one of those fuses blows. Check these fuses with a volt meter if the defrost heater doesn’t work.

A quick check if you have a cooling problem is to inspect the evaporator coils. If there is a build up of white snow on the coils, this indicates a frost free problem; if there is balled ice on part of the coils with the rest bare, this indicates a system problem, like a problem with the pumping compressor.
Good luck.......

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There are many people that have this problem and are searching for answers as to what to do and what could be causing this problem. It seems to be weird that the freezer is working fine and the fridge side is not. Why would the coldest side be good and the warmer side not?

The answer to these questions lies in the way the freezer/fridge combo works. The freezer is where the cooling coils are located. Then air is moved over the coils and circulated through the fridge side by a small blower or fan. The problem arises when the air is not circulated for some reason.

The reasons the air is not moving is usually two reasons

1. The fan or blower has failed.
2. The coil is covered over with ice and blocks the air flow.

The first reason is pretty simple to fix, you simply replace the air circulator and things are good again.
The second reason can be more difficult.
1. The timing device that runs the defrost cycle of the refrigerator is defective.
2. The heater coil that melts the water is shorted or not working

Usually the first thing to check is the heater coil. If there is resistance through the coil then most likely it is still good.
The timing device can be an advanced defrost control board or a mechanical timing device.
If the heater coil checks out to be good then the problem should be the timer.

For most situations, unplugging the refrigerator and allowing it to defrost on it’s own will get you going temporarily, till parts can be shipped to you. That will melt the ice and give you a few days or a couple of weeks till it ices up to the point where it will not work again.

So you can see here, the problem can usually be traced to one of three things.

1. The fan or blower
2. The timer device
3. The electric heater coil

By methodically checking these parts you can isolate your problem and fix it.

Take care.

air blows from freezer to fridg, usually ther is a dial or lever to adjust flow, but look in freezer for any thing blocking vent to fridge, ,also mitwe be a blockage in vent

1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
   
   CAUTION After disconnecting the negative battery cable, wait for 1 minute for the SRS module to deplete its energy.
   
   
2. Drain the cooling system into a clean container for reuse.
   
3. Disconnect the heater hoses from the heater core.
   
4. Remove the steering column by performing the following procedure:
   
   • Position the front wheels in the straight-ahead direction.
     
   • At the both sides of the steering wheel, remove the cover plugs, the steering wheel-to-air bag module screws, disconnect the air bag electrical connector and carefully remove the air bag module.
     
     CAUTION Safely store the air bag module with the front side facing upward.
     
     
   • Remove the steering wheel-to-steering column nut.
     
   • Using a steering wheel puller, press the steering wheel from the steering column.
     
   • Remove the parking brake release handle screws and move the release handle aside.
     
   • Remove the hood release screws and move the hood release aside.
     
   • Remove the 2 instrument panel-to-steering column cover screws and the cover.
     
   • Remove the instrument panel steering column opening reinforcement bolts and the reinforcement.
     
   • Remove the ignition switch bolt and disconnect the ignition switch electrical connector.
     
   • At the base of the steering column, disconnect the electrical connectors.
     
   • If equipped with an automatic transmission, remove the transmission range indicator bolt and the cable.
     
   • If equipped with an automatic transmission, disconnect the shift cable from the steering column shift tube lever and the steering column bracket.
     
   • Disconnect the brake shift interlock solenoid electrical connector.
     
   • Remove the air bag sliding contact.
     
   • Remove the upper intermediate steering shaft-to-column shaft bolt and discard the bolt.
     
   • Remove the lower steering column-to-instrument panel nuts and the steering column.
     
5. Remove the instrument panel by performing the following procedure:
   
   • Disconnect the Brake Pedal Position (BPP) switch electrical connector.
     
   • Remove the push pins and remove both cowl side trim panels.
     
   • At the right side cowl panel, disconnect the electrical connectors and ground wires.
     
   • Remove both sides windshield garnish moldings.
     
   • Disconnect the power distribution box from its bracket and move it aside.
     
   • In the engine compartment, loosen the bulkhead wiring harness bolts and disconnect the electrical connectors.
     
   • Pull the bulkhead electrical connector handle and disconnect the wiring harness.
     
   • Remove the passenger’s side air bag module-to-instrument panel screws, disconnect the electrical connector and remove the air bag module.
     

Store the air bag module in a safe location with the front facing upward.

• Disconnect the blend door actuator’s electrical connector.
  
• Disconnect the climate control vacuum harness connector.
  
• Disconnect the radio’s antenna connector.
  
• Remove the glove compartment.
  
• Remove the instrument panel defroster grille.
  
• Remove the upper instrument panel bolts.
  
• If equipped, remove the upper series floor console.
  
• Under the steering column, remove the instrument panel brace bolt.
  
• At both sides, remove the windshield side garnish moldings.
  
• Remove both the right and left instrument panel-to-cowl bolts.
  
• Remove the fuse panel door.
  
• Pull the instrument panel away from the dash.
  
• Loosen the instrument panel-to-body harness bolt and disconnect the harness.
  
• Using an assistant, remove the instrument panel.
  

1. At the PCM, disconnect the electrical connector; then, remove the 2 PCM cover nuts, the cover and the PCM.
   
   NOTE The PCM is located at the right side of the instrument panel.
   
   
2. Remove the evaporator core by perform the following procedure:
   
   • Discharge and recover the air conditioning system refrigerant.
     
   • Remove the refrigerant lines from the evaporator core. Discard the O-rings.
     
   • Disconnect the air conditioning cycling switch.
     
   • Disconnect the blower motor electrical connectors.
     
   • Disconnect the speed control servo connector; then, remove the bolt and reposition the speed control servo.
     
   • Remove the windshield washer reservoir/coolant recovery reservoir, and move it aside.
     
   • Disconnect the air conditioning manifold and tube from the accumulator/drier.
     
   • Disconnect the condenser-to-evaporator tube.
     
   • Inside the vehicle, disconnect the air conditioning system vacuum harness and the evaporator housing mounting nut.
     
   • In the passenger’s compartment, remove the evaporator housing-to-chassis nut.
     
   • In the engine compartment, remove the 3 evaporator housing-to-chassis nuts.
     
   • Remove the air conditioning accumulator from the evaporator core.
     
   • If equipped with a 5.0L engine, remove the evaporator housing heat shield screw, clips and the shield.
     
   • Remove the evaporator housing cover screws and the cover.
     
   • Remove the evaporator core from the housing.
     
3. Remove the PCM ground strap screw and the heat sink.
   
4. In the engine compartment, remove the heater housing air plenum nuts.
   
5. Remove the heater core-to-air plenum cover screws and the cover.
   
6. Remove the heater core.
   

CHECK FOR ELECTRICAL POWER @ l1 CONNECTION,IF YOU HAVE NO POWER CHCK THE FUSE,AND INSURE THE THERMOSTAT IS SET FOR COOLING OPERATION. IF THE UNIT HAS LEAKED FREON, A LOW PRESSURE SWITCH HAS OPENED, PREVENTING THE UNIT FROM OPERATING TO PREVENT DAMAGE TO THE COMPRESSOR. DO YOU HAVE A MANIFOLD GAUGE, AND ARE YOU CERTIFIED TO WORK WITH REFRIGERANTS? IF YOU ARE IN COMPLIANCE,HAVE TOOLS AND TEST EQUIPMENT WE CAN PROCEED FURTHER.