Question about Kenmore 67052 Dryer

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Loud/Soft signal I have a Kenmore Elite Canyon Capacity Electric Dryer. It seems to work fine, however often during the drying cycle I hear the Loud/Soft signal sound (while it is still running) beeping. It beeps four times for each (loud soft... loud soft... loud soft... loud soft...) I have checked when it's doing it and there is no code that I can see that tells me what the signal is trying to tell me. For the record if it matters we have it set on a soft signal when the load is done. But I have no idea why we hear both signals during the drying cycle itself. Thanks in advance!

Posted by Juli Cravens on

  • Juli Cravens May 25, 2007

    I know...it's weird. But we actually do throw one in every time we use it.

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All i can figure is it is a strange method by kenmore to alert the user to throw in an antistatic cloth that gives softer clothes (clothes softener sheets)

Posted on May 25, 2007

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2 Answers

Why won't it start?


YOU MAY WANT TO TEST YOUR DOOR SWITCH WITH AMULTI METER


ELECTRIC Dryer no heat or little heat, or shuts down to fast:
Check your venting and lint basket.Check blower for lint build up and blower wheel obstruction., test by trying to turn the wheel manually by hand (should be easy) May have to remove cabinet or front/back plate to get to it)

Next check the heating element itself with a meter for continuity it should show OHMS CLOSED CIRCUIT. If not its defective or has a short if its grounding out? Which in turns causes blown fuses or thermostats or
overheating.

The heating elements are located inside the heater ducts. If you think a heating element is faulty, test it with avolt-ohm-multimeter (VOM)set to the RX1 scale at 20K ohms. Disconnect the leads from the power terminals and clip one probe of the VOM to each terminal. The meter should read about 12. (1200) ohms. If the reading is higher ohms, the heater is faulty and should be replaced. Replace a faulty heater with a new one of the same type and electrical rating. A heater connected to a 115-volt line usually has an 8.4-ohm resistance; a heater connected to a 220-volt line usually has 11 ohms resistance.


Check dryer Terminal block prongs both outside prongs should give combined 220, and 110 each if u check 1 outside & 1 center (ground) prong. Also check house electrical outlet for full voltage. 220 because if u only get half or 110 volts you will be able to run the machine which uses only 110 to run motor but not the heater which uses a full 220,

OR you may have a broken centrifugal switch in the motor because this switch activates the motor and the heater as well. supposed to be if the motor does not run, the heater should not heat in order not to create a fire but if the motor is not running, and the heater is still heating, then there could be a problem with the motor centrifugal switch that is connected to this interlock switch that should trigger the heater.

Check the thermal cut off, the cycling and the hi limit thermostats.
For continuity or OHMS. If no ohms or resistance they need replacement.

In some dryer's the control panel relies on a thermistor rather than a CYCLING thermostat to regulate the drum's air temperature by monitoring the component's resistance changes; resistance goes down as temperature increases and up when temperature decreases. Once the drum's air temperature reaches a certain level required to dry clothes, the control panel shuts off the heater. The panel will turn the heater on again and begin another heating cycle when the thermistor indicates that more heat is needed to keep the air temperature constant inside the drum this is why in some cases the dryer will operate at lower cycles like gentle or low heat but not at higher settings?)

Lastly check your moister sensor. ( located inside the dryer door usually)Especially if machine seems to shut down early and clothes are still wet.
Test with a meter at room temperature and it should show continuity.
A failed moisture sensor will affect the dryer run time in the automatic moisture sensing cycle but it will not affect the heating of the dryer or the timed cycle. Which are reflected by the thermostats.
Read more :
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=wVTBrGMql7g
http://www.ehow.com/info_12203962_check-dryer-thermistor.
GOD IS So GOOD !!!! AND THAT'S WHY MY ADVICE IS FREE

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One possibility: Air flow! Make sure that the lint trap is cleaned before each cycle. You likely need to thoroughly clean out the vent piping out the back of the machine- a buildup of lint in here can also restrict airflow.

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Hi Celine, I just experienced the same exact problem. I came here looking for a solution. I got mine to stop by holding down the cycle signal button for 3 seconds, releasing it for three seconds, and repeating until both lights (loud and soft) went off. Hope it helps.

peter

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Hello, I would be curious to know if the dryer performs the same way on "timed" dry and "auto-dry", have you tried ? Here's a tip on how you can absolutely know if you have venting issues ( and I don't necessarily mean a "clogged" vent, there are other factors too ) Disconnect the vent at the rear of the dryer and run a cycle as you normally would and observe what happens. Also if it has the flex venting on it ( whether plastic or foil type ) get rid of it, personally I will not even service a customers dryer until they agree to change it when present. I'll watch for you reply in this post if I can assist you further. Good luck. macmarkus :)

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If your dryer seems to run forever, it could be because of a clogged vent or internal ductwork. Your dryer may have an automatic cycle that turns off the dryer when the clothes are dry. It does this with a special thermostat or moisture-sensing system.

Normally, this is what happens during an automatic cycle:

  • The thermostat tells the dryer to heat until the interior of the dryer reaches a pre-set temperature--say 135 degrees.

  • When the dryer reaches the pre-set temperature, the thermostat tells the timer to begin advancing. (If there's a moisture sensor, the timer advances only if the moisture content of the clothing is low enough.)

  • The timer advances until the interior cools, then the thermostat tells the timer to stop advancing, and tells the dryer to start heating again.

This cycle continues until the clothes are dry. But…if the vent is clogged, the dryer may never reach the proper operating temperature, so it doesn't send the signal to the timer and the dryer continues to run indefinitely, even if the clothes are completely dry. To fix the problem, clean the vent and/or internal ductwork.

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