Question about Kenmore Elite 21082
Model number 11021082000. Hello, I noticed that during my washers cycle, that the motor sounded like it was laboring. I am not sure whether it is draining or spinning (there is no long agitator, just an agitator "plate"). It seemed like the washer was "trying" to do something. It would make an effort to start, then stop and then start again and this goes on for a while. In fact while this is going on, I noticed that if the machine displayed that there was only 3 minutes left, that it could actually take 10 minutes to finish.
SOURCE: Kenmore wont agitate or spin
Mindurrs, your motor coupling has gone to the great beyond. Time for mourning has passed and now it must be replaced. The job takes about an hour and parts run about $10.00, ready? First, go to your local appliance parts retailer and purchase a coupling, part #285753. You'll need this for repairs. UNPLUG THE WASHER!!! Standing in front of the washer, you'll see two screws on either side of the control panel... remove these then flip the control panel over. Now, toward the right side, you'll see a wire harness that plugs into the top of the top panel, disconnect this. Now, on either side of the top panel, you'll see two brass colored clips. Take a screwdriver and poke it into the hole, use it as a pry bar. Pry the handle of the screwdriver toward the wall behind the washer, the clip will pop out. Now tilt the entire cabinet of the washer toward you to about a 45 degree angle then lift it out of there and set it aside out of the way for now. OK, now we're into the guts of the washer... Look below and in the center, you'll see the drain pump (it has 2 big hoses attached). Behind that, you'll see the motor... that's what you'll be taking off. On the right side of the motor, you'll see the electrical connections. Remove the long white one from the motor. (CAUTION!!! THIS NEXT STEP MUST BE DONE, OTHERWISE PERSONAL INJURY MAY RESULT!!!) You'll see a black round thing mounted to the motor on the right hand side, this is the capacitor. It has 2 red wires on it. (It's basically a 120 volt battery that is just waiting for you to touch it so it can shock you, badly) THIS MUST BE DISCHARGED (voltage drained off) BEFORE CONTINUING. Remove the 2 wires using insulated needle nose pliers. Now, discharge the cap by touching both terminals of the cap at the same time with your needle nose pliers. This will discharge the capacitor so it's safe to handle. Now, above and below the motor, you'll see 2 clips mounted on it, remove the screws that keep these clips in place then (with a flat head screwdriver) pry the clips off the motor. The motor and pump will drop out of there. Rotate the whole thing off to the left (with the hoses still attached to the pump). Now you can see the broken coupling (compare the old one and the new one). Pry the old pieces off the motor shaft and the transmission shaft and throw 'em away. Install the new coupling (notice the semi-triangular shape of the inside of the plastic coupling? I use my screwdriver handle... poke the handle into the coupling, place the coupling squarely on the shaft, then tap [don't BANG] it home with a hammer) and rebuild in the reverse order of dis-assembly! Sounds complicated, but it's not. I've done a thousand of these and it took me longer to type this than it would have for me to do it for you! And, for what it's worth, you have a good washer there. It's actually made by Whirlpool, and well worth the repair.
Posted on Sep 16, 2007
Had this problem on our Kenmore machine.
This is what done.
1. Unplug the washer
2. Take of the toe panel in the front by removing the three screws.
3. Get a bunch of towels (I mean a bunch!!!)
4. The pump is in the center, and it has a plastic grip handle that one can unscrew to remove the filter. As you unscrew it, LOTS of water will come out. Be ready with the towels. A cookie sheet helps to collect the water too.
5. Clean the filter assembly.
6. If one wishes to check the inlet of the pump, remove the back panel, about 12 screws. (Note, the following works for replace the pump as well)
7. Remove the large bellow from the bottom of the tub that goets to inlet of the pump by removing the clamp
9. Lift up on the plastic cover that covers the wires that power the pump. There may be a small plastic catch that is lifted up as to allow the connector to become free.
8. Remove the Torx screw that holds that is the center just under the filter screen.
9. Pull the pump forward.
10. Unclamp the pump outlet hose.
11. Remove pump
12. Unclamp the large bellow on the pumps inlet and inspect for debris.
13. Clean pump and fitler w/o getting water on the pump.
14. Install in reverse order. Remember, it is much easire to put the inlet bellow and outlet hose on the pump before you put into the washer
Posted on Jan 11, 2009
Depending on how fritzed your drain pump is this may or may not work. I've been using HE detergent because it is supposed to cause fewer suds. However, apparently is causing more suds than needed. I need to use only a couple tablespoons? If your clothes are not dirty enough for the soap to grab onto then extra suds are the result. The repair guy said we had an excessive amount of suds in the system and this affects the sensor and causes the drain pump to run and run and run until it shuts off from overheating. This is why we get the F2 and/or suds error code. He said once a month run the machine on the hottest water cycle with a cup of bleach (no clothes). This will clear out any suds build-up and is cheaper than Afresh which works, too, (but smells cleaner than bleach). After sitting for a day our pump started working again (yay!) It also stopped making the horrible loud sound. So glad I do not have to replace the pump!! yet...(knock on wood!).
Posted on May 13, 2009
THIS IS A TYPICLE PROBLEM . BETWEEN THE MOTOR & THE TRANSMISSION THERE IS A COLLECTOR ASSEMBY (THREE PIECE
SET) REAL EASY TO GET TOO EASY TO FIX . ALSO COST EFFICENT
Posted on Sep 21, 2009
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