Power on and off delay

If you open your doors that feature won't work

You stop the delayed feature once the doors open

At least try it & see if I'm correct,may not be that way
on yours

Actually during start-up there is a slight delay before the HDD & OS is detected by the CPU. Normally all monitors slip into power saving mode within 10 secs of inactivity of either mouse or keystroke. This inactivity is read by the monitor which promptly switches to power saving mode. However the moment the HDD LED starts blinking, the monitor wakes up & starts displaying. This power saving mode in most of the flat screens is only associated with movement of mouse or keypad. This does not register till the CPU starts up & thats why the monitor switches over to power saving mode till it starts receiving signal from the CPU.
It is a normal behaveour, so don't get worked up over it, plus you can always hit the Auto set feature on the monitor after booting the PC completely. ( I think the time out for the monitor to enter power saving mode is only 10 secs). Hope this helps.

Hi J Wade. I'm Dave P. I'm not a guitar amp expert or technician but I've been using amps and effects for 35 years and there are a couple things I can suggest.

That kind of periodic noise/switch noise can be a symptom of having the polarity of the amp reversed. If your amp has a 3-position OFF/ground switch, try reversing the ground. If it doesn't, take the plug and turn it around. Just don't get near a microphone unless you're sure your amp is grounded the same as the P.A. It could fry your lips off.

Dirty switches to that too. You said the noise is in time with the delay's tap time which is set by a foot switch. If tapping that switch the first time generates a pop, the delay may have catch it and is repeating it. Turn off the amp, remove the delay foot switch and turn it back on. Still noisy? If not, give the foot switch a good cleaning.

When you turn the EFFECTS knob up, is it scratchy? Might need the potentiometer cleaned. What happens when you specifically turn the DELAY level down all the way while using the other effects? Noise still there?

That's all I've got. Hopefully, it was helpful. Don't wrack your brain over this too much. There could very well be an internal problem with your amp that will require a trip to the shop. You don't want to open it up yourself. Rock on but be safe.

Dave P.

Could be a fuse. This happened to me once when driving a Ford Aerostar, after getting gas, all of a sudden I couldn't read the led displayed guages nor would th power windows work. Noticed one fuse gone bad, replaced and all was right again.

try changing the needle
try rethreading the machine
clean under the needle plate & in the bobbin area for lint or threads
if these suggestions don't help, then the machine needs to be checked
to see what wrong with it

Check the input power is coming or not. Check fuse inside control board & wiring too. If everything ok then it's problem of control board

A few things to think about here. First, how old is your amplifier. Older amplifiers (and some of the lower end new ones) were not built with a delay feature that solves this. The amp would delay (just for a few seconds) the application of power actually making it to your sub. It's known as a "soft turn on". This way you don't hear the thud. This will occur when turning it off too. It's the power supply in your amp.

Now about about when you skip tracks, that a different one. I guess my only recommendation is to make sure everything is grounded well. If you know how to use a multimeter, use one to insure that it is a good ground for both the head unit and the amp.

Happy Hunting

Now you have what I will call a very RARE time
when you can check for a blown fuse

It won't fix anything,but if it is & blows again
you know one of your window motors is overloading
the entire sytem.
Bad motor or stuck somehow.

Also some vehicles (most) have a
Delay Accy Module that times out after you open
the door. Radio goes off,windows go to sleep etc.

Don't know where that is

Check Fuse 2.3 (20 Amp). See electrical diagram below.

When it goes, it'll take out the audio and "Cluster and Panel Illumination."
(assuming your vehicle doesn't have an OEM Nav system - in which case fuse 2.3 would
supply power to the Nav system).

Fuse 2.3 is located in the CJB (Central Junction Box) - not the BJB (Battery Junction Box),
nor the AJB (Auxiliary Junction Box).

Also, check fuses F1.6 (60 Amp), and fuse F1.62 (30 Amp) in BJB (Battery Junction Box).
Also, check fuse F2.17 (15 Amp) and the "Accessory Delay Relay," both in the CJB (Central
Junction Box).





Here's the electrical diagram for 2005 Mercury Mountaineer Power Windows:
Note how fuses F1.6, F1.62, F2.17, and 'Accessory Delay Relay" will all
disable the power windows.

I don't really see a dedicated fuse or circuit breaker for the moonroof. I do see a 30 amp circuit breaker for the mmonroof but that also controls the power windows and the sliding back light as well as the moonroof, so if you're not having problems with the other stuff I would say it's not the circuit breaker. There is a 10 amp fuse for the delayed accessory power for audio, power door lock switch & the moonroof switch illumination. The 30 amp circuit breaker is located in the number 401 position in the passenger compartment fuse box (see picture below) and the 10 amp fuse I was telling you about is in the number 22 position. If it's just the moonroof itself I would check to make sure the switch itself is good or even the motor could be bad. I see no fuseable link going to the switch but that's not saying there may be a bad wire so check for power to the switch. Wish i could have been a little more help but in this case this is all I can give you. I hope this helps and good luck. Here is your picture: