Why my frigidaire top loader wont spin?

Its usually a door lock problem, motor control board, or drain pump issue on front load models. if its a top loader model its probably your lid switch.

I had the same problem. Checked the pump and it ran fine. Took off the door locking mechanism and put 120 ohms into the wax motor part and it tested fine too. I read about problems with that wax motor so I replaced the complete door switch today for $71.00 and the washer runs perfectly now. If it won't spin or even fully drain I suggest replacing the door switch.

possible door latch problem also can be pump

i believe i can help you,,but washers dont agitate in the spin cycle,,i believe you ment it wont wring or spin in the spin cycle..your lid switch is defective,,replace,,if need be i can talk you though,,onthejob

call repair before warranty runs out...possible door switch if it's a loud humming noise ..try pressing in on door latch side to see it hum changes

The problem is a faulty Door Latch Assembly. The same thing happened to my Frigidaire front load washer. The part is easy to install, costs about 60 dollars and can be picked up at most appliance repair stores . To access the switch just remove the wire around the front drum gasket, peel back the rubber gasket beside the switch assembly then remove the two screws holding it in place. remove the three wire connector blocks and swap in the new switch. My washer was giving me error code 41 witch is a faulty control board. But the problem was in fact only the switch...

hi thanks for your question. it would appear to me that the problem is with your lid switch would check that first try it and let me know thanks THE APPLIANCE DOC.

I just had this problem with my Frigidaire Affinity ATF7000EE0.

When the machine seems to work fine (as it will wash but just won't kick into a spin cycle) it is most likely the door lock/switch assembly. In addition to the actual door lock solenoid and door closed switch, the assembly contains a secondary lock in the form of a wax motor and an auxiliary switch. This wax motor and switch activates during the spin cycle. When the wax motor goes bad the secondary lock does not activate therefore the spin cycle switch does not activate, which in turn disables the spin cycle. Even though you can hear your door lock kick in and the door is locked it is most likely the secondary lock in this switch assembly. Start by replacing it first.

Unplug the washer unless you want to get shocked! Take out the two screws at the back of the washer that holds on the washer top and remove the top by sliding towards the back of the machine and lift up. You can go to the front of the machine and reach down inside to the door lock while removing the two screws that hold it in from the outside front of the machine. Once the lock is removed there should be enough wire slack to get the lock up above the tub before you go and try to unplug any connections. Make sure and make notes as to where your connections go on the switch. Simply unplug the old switch and plug your new lock assembly in, remount it, and put the top back on. You should be good to go.

One note, don't panic if you select spin cycle and it doesn't start spinning immediately. Wax motors actuate very slow and smoothly. It could take up to a minute for the lock and switch mechanism to get into place before the spin will start.

Have a great day!

yes. the solinoid or wax motor (depending on which switch you have) has fail and is not telling control that the door is locked. replacing the switch will fix it

The transmission might have locked up causing the motor to overheat.