I bought a new dishwasher which had been used for training service techs; that is, the electrical harness was dissassembled and re-assembled to demonstrate the procedure to technicians. I installed the dishwasher, and immediately it melted the 'solinoid' (i think that's what it's called). It's a black cylinder under the dishwasher, near the front, that is connected to the control arm that, when pulled down, causes the dishwasher to drain. I replaced the solinoid, and it immediately melted the 2nd one, too. can anyone tell me why this keeps happening. Some thoughts:
1. at installation, when connecting the wiring to the gray power supply cord that i robbed off my old dishwasher, I did not think it mattered which wire (black or white) was connected to which side of my cord. - it couldn't be a 'polarity' issue or something, right?
2. the electrical connector that connects to the solinoid can be attached either way as well - right-side up or up-side down - i don't think that matters, either...
I do not have a warranty on this machine under the conditions which i bought it, so i need to figure this out...
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Re: dishwasher keeps melting the 'solinoid' (sp.?)
Like Zuesfaber says as long as you don't have it connected to 220V supply, I believe you have a timer issue. The timer is sending 120V to the solenoid when it shouldn't be, overheating and melting it. I've seen this on a few GE's and got stung on a service call because of it. The solenoid is a AC circuit so it doesn't matter which way the harness is connected. Catriver.
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We have a Kitchen Aid dishwasher, 10 years old, never any problems until 2 weeks ago, then we started noticing a gritty subtance on the dishes and glassware. We're on well service, psi 40-60. water hardness is 6 grains. small trace of sulphur, and we have a Mermaid sulphur system, then a complete house carbon filter, and finally a Culligan water softner. Checked everything, Water temp. at kitchen was 120, all cycles on dishwasher were operating. Called in repair service, he says something is breaking down in the dishwasher, best to buy a new one. That'll be $150.00. Thank you very much. Tried the white vinegar, no change. Next bought 2 bottles of Dishwaser Magic. Slight improvement. Next bought 1 bottle of Finish Dishwasher Cleaner. Bingo. The thing is like brand new. even the trays slide in/out much easier. None of the dishsoaps contain phosphate, which is what helps disolve the minerals in the water. I'm not sure what the gritty stuff is, maybe the buildup over time, and it just keeps getting redistributed through the wash and rinse cycles, and finally baked on in the dry cycle. According to a tech with many years repairing appliances, the majority of their calls are for dishwasher poor performance, all because they removed the one compound that's been cleaning our dishes for years, Phosphate. We've always used Cascade gel soap. best on the market today, Finish Quantum. We tried it and dishes look terrific. It's a small tablet that fits in the soap dispenser. All Mfg's. today recommend that you run a dishwasher cleaner once a year, Experienced tech recommends every 3 months maybe more if you're on hard water. Good luck.
Time for a new dishwasher. Had the same problem. Tech came out and threw hundreds at it cause it was under warranty at the time, i didnt pay a dime and ended up buying new one.
F1 is a flood code. There are several reasons this could be happening. One, make sure that you are not putting dishes in that are too tall for the drawer and possibly keeping the lid from closing all the way. Also, on those models, there is a device behind the drawer that guides the hoses and wiring as you open and close the drawer. On older models, this link support was made of nylon and would crack and break loose over time. Then the broken end gets jammed under the back of the lid the next time it is used. Since the machine is now "wet" it will not stop doing the F! and you should hear the sound of both drain pumps running. The machine is trying to drain itself and it will not allow any other input. It needs to be serviced. Other techs will give bad advice about "just take out the lower drawer and dry up the flood sensor" Avoid this advice like the plague. There's a reason it got wet and that needs to be determined. There is a diagnostics procedure to make sure the lid motors are operational. This machine should only be serviced by a properly trained Fisher Paykel tech, as many independent techs fancy themselves as Fisher Paykel techs and they know enough to be dangerous...
Hi WE give this answer in good faith that anybody who benefits from it will make a donation to COMIC RELIEF, because I've just fixed my smeg d/w which is a great relief and no joke when not working, SO DONATE. My dishwasher tried to start but would not ,it tried but could not, the panel showed no fault. The fault was caused by the failure of the solinoid (electric magnet) which opens the soap dispenser mechanism, located inside the door. I used an electric light up screw drive (from £ shop) which glows when you touch the end, to test the solioid, you could also use a multi meter though not as reliable. We replace solinoid, (Common solinoid from any appliance repair shop) but I note on ebay there is a dishwasher guy selling the complete dispenser unit with new solinoid fitted. Hope this helps( we have just had our first wash) Do not forget to donate Minnie Moon (twitter) P.S. Sorry I can not remember how to spell solinoid (electro magnet)
With an error code the only way to find and to repair this is,
First unplug the washer and wait a few minutes then restart it like rebooting your computer when its acting strange! If it corrects the problem GREAT.
If not only a trained laundry tech can make the electronic diagnoses.
How old is the appliance?
If the appliance is 10 years old or more you it may not be advisable to put good money into bad! New appliances are so much more efficient today that they can save you a lot of money in energy!!!! Water,Electric and detergent! And put money back in your pocket! The new appliance will pay for itself in only a few years!
Bless You ngafm PLEASE GIVE ME A GOOD RATING HERE AT FIXYA.COM BEFORE YOU SIGN OFF.
there is a heater in the base of the dishwasher . It could be this is faulty as you can still use the machine .
It does'nt matter that you have connected it to the cold water tap the machie should heat up the water it self.this is'nt a job you can do your self so you will have to call out an engineer sorry
Hi WE give this answer in good faith that anybody who benefits from
it will make a donation to COMIC RELIEF, because I've just fixed my
smeg d/w which is a great relief and no joke when not working, SO DONATE. My dishwasher tried to start but would not ,it tried but could not, the panel showed no fault.
The fault was caused by the failure of the solinoid (electric magnet)
which opens the soap dispenser mechanism, located inside the door. I
used an electric light up screw drive (from £ shop) which glows when
you touch the end, to test the solioid, you could also use a multi
meter though not as reliable. We replace solinoid, (Common
solinoid from any appliance repair shop) but I note on ebay there is a
dishwasher guy selling the complete dispenser unit with new solinoid
fitted. Hope this helps( we have just had our first wash) Do not forget to donate Minnie Moon (twitter) P.S. Sorry I can not remember how to spell solinoid (electro magnet)
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