Re: 1 burner wont stop clicking on miele cooktop km 344
We have an older Thermador Gas Cooktop type range. It was working fine until the cleaning crew came in, then all the burner igniters were clicking when turning on a single burner. I solved the problem by cleaning off the igniters. I first of course unplugged the power. Then I took a small wire telcom pic tool to scrape the white and brown deposits from the sides of the igniters. You could probably use something else similiar to do the scraping. I noticed a shiny surface underneath. I then went ahead and scraped and brushed clean the mating surface where the spark travels. I then vacuumed up the mess. My burners all worked great after this. Hope this helps!
Re: 1 burner wont stop clicking on miele cooktop km 344
Usually due to the ignition unit being faulty. being miele, the part will be pricey. another solution is to take out the ignition unit and take it into a local electrical repair outfit and see if it can be matched up with one from a different make.
to check if this is the problem, interchange two electrode leads on the ignition unit and see if fault changers to another burner.
you sometimes find that there is a spare ignition outlet on the ignition unit and this can be used as an alternative
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I have the Miele km342g cooktop. The ignition would continue firing intermittently after the burner was lit - click, click, click. Drove us crazy for years and we cursed the unit every time we used it. We assumed it was sensing unburned fumes and so we bought a small fan to "whisk" the gas fumes away. etc. etc. I finally figured out what a simple little thing it was. To start the burner, you turn the knob counter-clockwise. Therefore, once the burner is lit it's intuitive to turn the burner down by turning it clockwise. But in order to turn the burner down, you have to continue turning it counter-clockwise - or, "counter-intuitive". Once we figured that out, we haven't had a problem since.
Does the burner attempt to re-ignite after it goes out? If so, it's probably the therocouple. If not, it could be the burner valve. Be sure the caps and rings are correctly seated on the burners and be sure to firmly press the burner knob down to start the flame.
There are three parts to the ignition system typically.
The ignitor that is either in the burner or outside the burner.
The spark ignitor switch that is located on the burner control. (( one for each control ))
The spark modual. the modual creates the hi-voltage spark.
If the burner that does not ignight with its control does not spark but does spark with one of the other controls then the spark ignitor control switch is bad.
You can test it with one of the other burner control knobs. (( just try a working burnder and when it clicks look at the bad burners ignitor and look for the spark.))
If the bad burner that wont ignight does not spark then either your modual is bas or the ignitor is shorting out.
If you see any little spark but it does not spark from point A to Point B like the other burners then your ignitor is shorting and should be replaced.
If your ignitor is ceramic and it is cracked, then it should be replaced.
Hello Leighvz, The rings around the burners should be cleaned periodically. Each one has a series of holes to let the gas come out and have to be set back perfectly or else you will continually have this problem. You can clean with regular dish soap an water and a sponge or rag. Also, If you put a pot or pan on the burner and it is too large it will cut off oxygen to the burner causing your clicking. The clicking only occurs when the oxygen supply is not enough. Hope this helps
Most likely the electrode for the right burner is defective. As well as the switch may also be defective (is shorted because of pressing hard on it trying to make it work!!). Change the electrode and igniter switch of the right front burner.
I had a similar problem and discovered that the control knob had fried itself, most likely due to liquid penetration down the shaft of the control knob and into the control knob electronics. Inside is a printed circuit board with resistor, diode and a rheostat.The surface of the board was charred beyond repair. To trouble shoot the problem, open the cook top and hook the burner in question to one of the known good control knobs.If it ignites, then it is the control knob electronics.If it doesn’t, then there is something wrong with the igniter. Note: The 2-zone Wok Burner had a different control knob that the other burners. To open the cook top, do NOT loosen any of the Phillips screws on the sides.Here are the instructions from the user manual: Disassembly Shut off gas supply, disconnect the manifold pipe, disconnect the electrical power. Remove pan supports, burner heads and burner rings. Remove control knobs. In the event that the hob is built in, undo the bracket clamps underneath the work surface. Lift the hob on to the work surface. Unscrew the venturis on the high-speed and super high-speed burners using a 20 mm wrench. Lift and remove the burner rings and burner base plates. Disconnect the wires from the ignition plugs. Keep the wire from dropping into the undertray by inserting it in one of the slots in the burner supports. Remove the three screws securing the dual ring wok burner. Remove the wok burner base plate. Lift the ceramic tray from the hob. Note: Each regulator shaft is equipped with a black ring. This ring may cling to the rubber seal in the ceramic tray. Check and remove the rings from the rubber seals. To order parts, call 1-800-245-8215, 8:30 AM to 5:00 PM EST