The wires on my heating element might be switched any clue on the wiring diagram Changed heating element, it was broke . After about two months a wire going from a sensor to heating element burnt and it quit heating. Did I put the wires on wrong ?

ask the MANUFACTURER since you forgot the brand name

I don't know for sure I don't have a diagram on this model but one of the red wires may go to the heat element & the other to the switch on the motor if that is the case the other side of the switch is likely to be red too. If you have the wiring diagram check what the black wire hooks to then trace where the red wires go. Diagram should be in dryer somewhere .

Have a look at the wiring diagram to see if there is a thermal or safety cut-out. If this has tripped or turned off, the unit wont work. Also make sure the unit has a neutral. Appliances can have an active but if the neutral has broken or disconnected, it wont work. Use a multimeter or get a sparkie to check it for you.

suspect element. refer to wiring diagram. unplug dryer. unscrew or unplug wires from element. use multimeter set to "continuity," and touch leads to ends of element where you removed wires. If no meter reading or "beep," element is probably bad. If you have continuity, suspect loose wires or switches. That's all I know!

more likely that you didn't wire the plug correctly
take it in to a repair shop for check

A common problem is the heating element goes bad. I have had this happen and you can see a spot on the heating element which looks different from the rest of the element (a clue).

Many ovens have two heating elements. Upper and lower. Now I am no Julia Child, but I think bake turns on just the lower heating element? And broil turns on just the top heating element????

So I suppose you might have it on bake and it is not working. Might try broil and see if that works. If yes, then you are getting power through all the controls to the upper heating element, so good chance just the lower heating element is bad.

If you don't get heat to either the upper or lower heating element, then I would suspect the wiring or a control.

So far as the heating element, you should be able to remove it and using an ohm meter, get some sort of reading if it is good (I have no idea what though). Or open circuit if bad.

Also the insulation on older ranges can "melt" back exposing live wires! This is of course very dangerous and the wiring should only be replaced with high heat range wiring which I assume you could get at an appliance store?

Or the contacts on a control/switch could be bad. I would test this with a continuity tester or ohm meter.

Many appliances have a wiring diagram down low somewhere. Or might find it online.

try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check element, timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor 2 heavy red wires (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element

try flipping you breaker off and on 2 or 3 times (hard and fast) if this don't work check timer , thermostats and safety switch on motor (check wiring diagram for pin numbers of safety switch)....if this switch goes bad the motor will still run but it wont let power go to element

better to unplug the unit for an hour.

NEED BRAND AND MODEL IF POSSIBLE.