Water runs back into tub when lid is opened

remove the two phillips screws holding down the top console,one on each side,if there is plastic covers on the end of the console remove the caps and then remove the screws.when you have the screws out flip up the console and with a screw driver pop the two clips and disconnect the lid switch harness closest to the right side clip,open the lid,grab the frame,tilt it forwards and pull back to remove the frame.now you can run it and see where the water is leaking from,if the washer doesn't run get a piece of wire,cut off the insulation off of the two ends and cut the wire around three inches,get the harness where the lid switch was plugged into,stick the jumper wire into the outside holes of the harness and the washer will run,the lid switch is just a safety,the manufacturer doesn't want the washer to run with the lid open so just jump out the lid switch,the middle hole is green and is the ground,just stick the jumper wire into the other two holes and the washer will run,check the pump and check to see if the tub seals are leaking,if the seals are leaking you'll see black dots one third of the way up from the bottom on all sides of the frame and the water will leak from the middle of the tub where the tranny. goes up into the tub,next time send the full model number,it will start with 110. or similar,also check all the hoses.let me know what you find.

Sounds like a hose off pressure switch or faulty switch/ however make sure drain connected ok 1st....

The back does not come off on these model washers. You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components. NOTE: Its a good idea to run a small amount of water in the tub PRIOR to removing the casing in order to get a better idea of where the leak may be coming from. The washer will not run without the lid switch plugged in, so fill about 1/4 full and shut the washer off before disassembling everything.

I know you replaced the drain pump, but did you verify if the hoses were good? Check both the hoses on the pump to ensure they do not have any cracks that could be causing the leak.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back. Check for cracks and loose clamps.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:

1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

The water level is controlled by the pressure switch. The switch is located inside the operator console behind the load level/size selector knob. You either have a pressure switch that is malfunctioning, or something more simple. The following link explains:

http://www.fixya.com/support/r762094-washer_overflows

I would first run a small amount of water in the wash tub (about 1/4 full), shut the washer off and unplug. Open the console and see if the small air hose is still attached to the pressure switch. If not, reconnect and your problem should be solved. If the air hose IS attached carefully disconnect it and blow through it. You should get air bubbles in the wash tub if the hose is not clogged or leaking somewhere. If the hose is damage in anyway, replace it.

Double check your electrical connections and make sure the contacts are clean. Sometimes the contacts corrode with age and will not function properly.

If all these preliminary mesures do not work, replace your pressure switch.

If you need to access the interior of the washer, follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Check the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There should be a small plastic air hose attached to what is called the "airdome". If this air hose comes off, the tub will leak as it starts to fill. The other end of this hose connects to the pressure switch. Do a visual check to see if anything may be clogging it. You can remove the hose if it is clogged and blow air through it to remove most obstructions.

To reinstall the washer casing, follow these steps to ensure you get the case correctly placed and secure on the frame:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Let me know if you need any further assistance. I hope this helps you.

You will need to remove the washer exterior cabinet in order to sufficiently locate the source of your leak. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components. NOTE: Its a good idea to run a small amount of water in the tub PRIOR to removing the casing in order to get a better idea of where the leak may be coming from. The washer will not run without the lid switch plugged in, so fill about 1/4 full and shut the washer off before disassembling everything.

I know you replaced the drain pump, but did you verify if the hoses were good? Check both the hoses on the pump to ensure they do not have any cracks that could be causing the leak.

The water inlet and dispenser hoses are located along the back. Check for cracks and loose clamps.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some other things to consider:

1. Check your fill hoses to ensure they are tight and not leaking. What can often appear as a washer problem, may be a loose hose.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. Inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine epoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information is helpful.

The back does not come off on these washers. You have to remove the washer cabinet to expose the internal components. The following steps explain how:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

The pump and drain hoses connections are located in the FRONT of the washer directly under the wash tub.

To get the cabinet back on the washer, follow these steps:

1, With the lid of the washer open, grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make sure the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side by leaning over the front of the washer and grasping the back panel and pull towards you. Reinsert the brass clips by placing the clips into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push then down into the opening on top of the washer.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

Some oither things to consider:

1. You may have had a drain line back up and spill over from the standpipe at the wall. Try allowing the washer to drain and listen at the standpipe. If you can hear the water backing up (the sound of te water will become higher pitched) you may consider having your drain line checked by a plumber.

2. With the washer case removed, check the are UNDER the wash tub. If the leak is coming from the center above the transmission, the tub seal may be leaking.

3. With the washer case removed, inspect the wash tub for any cracks. If the tub is cracked and its not serious, you may be able to get by with some marine expoxy to reseal it. If the crack is significant, a new tub will be required.

4. Check the air dome onthe lower gith hand side of the wash tub. This is a small plastic air hose that runs from the wash tub all the way to the pressure switch. If this hose comes loose, the washer will start to leak as it fills. Simply reattach if it comes loose.

It seems like a rather lengthy process, but it is a simple if you follow the instructions step-by-step. NOTE: It is important to remove the washer case in matters like this so that you can get a full view of everything to determine the source of the leak. If the leak were coming from the rear of the washer, it wouldn't have suds in it. This is where the water inlet vlave and dispenser hoses are located. Water enterst this area PRIOR to the wash tub. Read through everything thoroughly before beginning any repairs. I hope this information helpful.

There may be too much water and not enough clothes in the washer. If that is the case the water rises up the side of the tub when spinning and overflows the inner tub. Usually it goes into the outer tub but it can spurt out through bleach dispenser and run down the inside of the cabinet or hit the lid and splash out. Set water level (Xsmall, small, medium, large, Xlarge) appropriate for amount of clothes.

Can you explain where the leak may be coming from? Is this a small leak or a huge gush of water?

If the leak is coming from under the front of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking drain pump or drain hoses. These pumps are not serviceable and will require replacing.

If the leak is coming from the back of the washer, this is commonly caused by a leaking water inlet valve or associated dispenser hoses.

If the leak is coming from under the center of the wash tub, this can be caused by a bad tub or cracked outer tub shell. If the seal is leaking, tell-tale signs of water marks will be visible on the gearcase (transmission). If the tub is cracked, it can be temporarily repaired with 2 part epoxy, but will ultimately require replacement (not a common problem).

Now...if the leak begins when the washer starts to fill and is a huge gush of water, this is caused by the air hose coming loose from the air dome. The air dome is a small plastic air gap on the lower right hand side of the wash tub. There is a small rubber air hose that connects to it and runs all the way to the pressure switch inside the operator console (located behind the load level selector knob). This is what shuts the water off at the appropriate water level. If the hose comes loose, there will be a huge gush of water pouring out of the wash tub (air dome) when the tub reaches about 1/4 full.

In any case, you will need to remove the outer washer casing to access the interior. Follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.

2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.

a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.

b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.

3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.

4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.

5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.

6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

To re-install the case, follow these steps:

1. With the lid of the washer open, grasp the case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.

2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.

3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.

4. Reinstall console.

If any of these symptoms sound familiair, and you need addtional assistance, please let me know. I hope you find this information helpful.

Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.

Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.

Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.

Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).

To reinstall the case, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.

NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.

Have you checked the drain pump? These washers are notorious for developing leaks with the pump. To inspect thoroughly, you will need to remove the exterior case of the washer. Just follow these steps:

1. Unplug washing machine.
2. Remove console. This can be accomplished in one of two ways depending on which type of console you have.
a. If the console has removable end caps, the caps lift off by prying on the top from the back of the washer. The cap will pull off towards you as you are facing the unit from the front of the washer. There will be a screw under each end cap that you will need to remove.
b. If the console does not have removable end caps, you will need to slide a putty knife under the front corner of each side and push in while lifting up. There is a retaining clip under each side that has to be released.
3. Once the console has been released it will lift up and fold back over the back of the washer in its resting position. Use care not to stress the small plastic hinges that hold it on. They can break easily.
4. Under the console will be two large brass colored clips. Take a large flat blade screwdriver and place it in the groove of the clip on the washer top. With the screwdriver firmly in the groove, push away from you towards the back of the washer. This will release the clips.
5. Disconnect the lid switch connector plug. This is the white colored plug on the washer top under the console.
6. Remove the washer casing. Open the lid of the washer. Using one hand, grip under the front rim of the washer opening. Do not grab the wash tub, just the casing. Tilt the washer case from the back first towards you, slide forward slightly, and then lift up. The entire case comes off exposing the wash tub and components.

Locate the water pump. It is a small plastic pump with two hoses connected to it, directly under the front of the wash tub. The pumps can develop small cracks and begin to leak. If this is the case, the pumps are not serviceable and must be replaced.

Check the tub seal. The seal in the center of the wash tub. If the seal develops leaks, you will notice water track marks on the transmission and a puddle under the center of the wash tub.

Check the the for cracks. Although it is not common, I have seen stress cracks develop on the exterior wash tub, causing leaks. The tub will have to replaced if this is the case.

Check the air dome hose to make sure it is still attached and not leaking. It is a small plastic hose that runs from the pressure switch in the console to the lower right hand side of the wash tub. If the hose comes loose of develops leaks, the washer will begin to leak as it fills (usually about 1/3 of the way full).

To reinstall the case, follow these steps:

1. Re-install washer case. With the lid of the washer open, place grasp case under front rim and place it on the washer frame. While looking down through the washer lid opening, make sure the front lip of the case is placed UNDER the washer frame and rocked back onto the frame to ensure that the small cleats on the frame fit into the slotted grooves on the washer case base. If you do not get the case seated correctly it will rattle and vibrate while the washer is in operation.
2. Make the back of the washer fits into the washer casing on each side and reinsert the brass clips. Place the clip into the slot on the back of the washer first, and then forcefully push it into the opening on top of the washer. It will snap back into to place.
3. REINSTALL LID SWITCH CONNECTOR. It is easy to forget. If you do not reconnect it, the washer will not work correctly.
4. Reinstall console.

NOTE: Run some water in the tub about 1/3 of the way full BEFORE you remove the exterior washer case. That way you can check for any leaks with water in the tub. Let me know what you fins. I hope this helps you.