Hi..
If your washing machine wont drain, you need to check this following:
- Inspect the drain hose for kinks
- Test the timer control
- Test the lid switch (some models)
- Inspect the water pump
- Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
- Inspect the motor coupler
If it wont spin check this
- Test the lid switch
- Test the timer control
- Test the centrifugal switch
- Test the water level switch
- Inspect the motor coupler
- Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
- Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
- Test the motor
- Inspect the pulley
- Test the transmission
It won't drain
If your washer won't drain, check these:
It spins, but doesn't pump
If
your washer spins but doesn't pump the water out, the drain line is
probably clogged. In many washers, a small sock or other piece of
clothing can get between the clothes tub and the outer tub that holds
the water. If the clothing gets between the tubs, it may then get into
the drain hose that's attached to the pump--or even into the pump
itself. If it's in the pump, you need to remove the hoses from the pump
and pull the item out.
To remove the sock from the outer tub
port, open the washer's main access panel and remove the large-diameter
rubber hose that connects the pump to the bottom of the outer tub.
Then, using needle-nose pliers, try to grab and remove the clothing
through the port.
Sometimes you can't remove the stuck
clothing from below. Then you have to remove the agitator, top of the
outer drum shield, and inner clothes tub. This isn't easy to do--and
you may need special tools--so you might be happier getting a qualified
appliance repair technician to do the job.
If the drain line
isn't plugged, the problem may be with your pump. Even if the pump
appears to be turning, the internal impeller may be broken. If so, you
need to replace the pump.
It doesn't spin or pump
If
your washer doesn't spin or pump water out but the motor is running,
your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley. If so, you need to
replace the pump. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the washer
and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn freely--if
it's frozen or stiff--replace it.
It pumps, but the water returns
If
the water that pumps out of the machine goes back into the machine
after the spin cycle, your washer may be siphoning the water from a
laundry tub that has a slow drain, back into the washer. The usual
remedy for this is to improve the draining of the laundry tub. (Is
something stuck in the drain?) Also, check for these problems:
- If the drain hose reaches more than about 4 inches into the laundry tub, cut off the excess.
- If your drain hose is lower than the washer's cabinet, install an air gap/siphon break assembly.
It doesn't spin
If your washer won't spin, check these:
It doesn't pump or spin
If it doesn't pump water out or spin, check to see if the motor is running, then proceed as follows:
- If
the motor is running, your washer probably has a frozen pump pulley or
a broken pump belt. To check the pulley, remove the pump from the
washer and try to rotate the pulley manually. If it doesn't turn
freely--if it's frozen or stiff--replace it. If the pump belt is broken
or looks quite worn, replace it--but be sure to check the pump pulley
before you change the belt.
- If the motor isn't
running, the lid switch may be defective. If so, the washing machine
can't spin and may not function at all. The switch is inside the
washing machine main housing near the door frame. Often you have to
raise or open the top or front of the washing machine to get to the
switch. If it's defective, you need to replace it.
It pumps, but doesn't spin
If your washer pumps out the water but doesn't spin, check these:
- The
lid switch may be defective. If it is, the washing machine doesn't
spin. The switch is inside the washing machine main housing near the
door frame. Often you have to raise or open the top or front of the
washing machine to get to the switch. If it's defective, you need to
replace it.
- The motor coupler may be broken. Many
Whirlpool®-manufactured washers use a small, relatively inexpensive
motor coupling. It's plastic and rubber and is mounted to the shaft of
the motor on one side, and to the transmission on the other. Over time,
the coupler wears out and fails. You may need to replace it.
- A
belt may be broken. Many washing machines have one or two belts. If a
belt is broken or badly worn, you need to replace it with a genuine
belt from the manufacturer. (Some washing machine belts are designed
with special characteristics not found in automotive belts.)
- The
clutch may be worn. If your washer is a GE, it may use a clutch to come
up to the proper spin speed. As the clutch wears out, it may prevent
the unit from spinning well or at all. If the clutch is worn, you need
to replace it. For this job, you probably want to hire a qualified
appliance repair technician.
- The drive motor may be
defective. Many washer brands use a reversing motor. For agitation the
motor runs in one direction, for spinning and draining, the other. It's
possible for a motor to burn out in one direction and continue to
operate in the other. If this happens, you need to replace the entire
motor.
- The transmission may not be shifting properly.
Older washers produced by Whirlpool® have a transmission with an
electro-mechanical shifter. If the shifter becomes even partially
defective, the unit may drain the water but not spin. This is a complex
system, if your washer has a shifter problem, you may want to hire a
qualified appliance repair technician to repair it.
- The
spin bearing or basket drive may be worn or seized. These components
allow the inner tub to spin freely inside the outer tub. When this is
the problem, you usually hear a loud sound during the spin cycle. Call
a qualified appliance repair technician.
It spins only with the lid closed
For
safety, washing machines are made so that they spin only with the lid
closed. The lid switch prevents the spinning action when the lid is up.
Thanks !!!
Regards
PCmania
Won't Spin washes but don't spin out
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