Question about Whirlpool WFW9151YW Duet 3.5 cu. ft. Front Load Washer With
LF flashes when the water level does not change for a period of time after the valves are turned on OR water has disengaged
the basket but control does not detect a water level change.
Is water supply connected and turned on?
Are hose screens plugged?
Is water entering the tub? If so check pressure hose connection to machine/motor control.
Posted on Oct 13, 2012
"F09" is an Overflow Condition error. This is usually attributed to a malfunctioning pressure switch, loose or broken connector between the Pressure Switch, Drain Pump and Central Control Unit (CCU), or...a drain pump or drain line that has become clogged.
Since this problem occurs periodically during the wash cycle, I would check your drain pump filter for obstructions first. It could be that you have debris lodged in the pump causing it not to drain properly. To access the pump:
1. Unplug the washer.
2. Remove the lower kick panel under the door by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: Placing a couple of blocks of wood under the front feet of the washer will make access much easier.
3. The drain pump is located under the wash tub in the center. HINT: If you own a shop vac, remove the drain line from the standpipe at the wall and pull a vacuum through the drain line. This will remove all residual water from the washer and make clean up later a lot less messy. Now, remove the cover on the drain pump and remove. Clean out the pump filter and check the pump impeller for obstructions.
If you do not own a shop vac, place a bunch of towels around the drain pump BEFORE you open it. There's about a gallon or so of water in the tub, drain line and pump.
Try this first, and let me know if this corrects your problem. If not, you may need to check the pressure switch and wiring. I hope this helps you.
Posted on Apr 14, 2008
SOURCE: whirlpool duet washer code
I'm Harvey the Master Plumber
You want to know what code dL means on a whirklpool duet washer.
This is what works for me 99% of the time:
Simply unplug the washer for ten minutes. The onboard computer will reset and work like new.
Please understand that you are not being shortchanged. There are hundreds of codes and with this new computer tech. they mostly require a repareman. To save you money the manufacturer has designed it to reset itself after ten minutes to solve most problems. Try this first, you can always call a local pro later if you want.
Feel free contact me again!
Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off
Harvey your Master Plumber
Posted on Sep 11, 2008
f22 is a door lock error try this hit cancel turn your dial to another setting, hit start and once it starts hit cancel again and it should unlock. thats what i did anyway.
If you're getting an F22 error, you will want to check anything to do with the door latch switch.
Posted on Mar 14, 2009
SOURCE: flashing code F71 then F70
We've owned a Whirlpool Duet Washer (WFW9200SQ00) for about 3 years. We started getting the F70 error code intermittently about 6 months ago and it seems to progressively be getting worse. Unplugging the unit for a few minutes resets the error, but it comes back about every 2nd or 3rd load causing my wife a lot of frustration and with 4 kids, our laundry was backing up. After reading several Forum's, I found the F70 error code indicates a "heartbeat" communication error between the various electronic boards inside the washer and the consensus seems to be the most likely culprit is the Motor Control Unit (MCU) board. Before spending nearly $250 for a replacement board (http://www.helpfulparts.com/servlet/the-5733/8183196/Detail) with no guarantee that it would fix the problem, I decided to take the board out of the machine and inspect it. What I found is the connector for the communication (the connector with three blue wires) on this board is a very unreliable connector that uses the edge of the printed circuit board on one side of the connection instead of a real connector soldered to the board. In addition, the fit of this connector seems to loose to make a good connection. I noticed a little bit of corrosion on the board contacts which I cleaned with rubbing alcohol and a pencil eraser. After re-installing the cleaned board we've done several loads with (keeping my fingers crossed) no errors. I am still concerned about the reliability of this connection. Because of it's location, this board is subject to a fair amount of vibration and because of the loose fit I'm concerned that this issue will only come back over time. I've already decided that if the error comes back I will solder wires to the contacts on the board to provide a more robust connection. It's a shame that you can spend well over $1,000 on a top of the line washer, and in order to save $.10 Whirlpool decided to use a very poor connector in a critical area. It makes you wonder where else did they skimp to save a few pennies?!! Our next washer will not be a Whirlpool, and next time will not get a high end washer with all the bells and whistles.
Posted on Jan 03, 2010
This advice is for Whirlpool Duet and Kenmore Elite model FRONT LOADERS displaying the "F24" Error Code. Some of the error codes on these model washers can be erroneous, however. The first step in troubleshooting any error code is to simply unplug the washer for AT LEAST 30 minutes in an attempt to reset the Central Control Unit (CCU). This is the main "brain" of the washing machine. If the error code reappears following a CCU reset, then you have a genuine problem.
"F24" is an indication of a water temperature sensor (NTC) error, or Heating Circuit failure. Check the Water Temperature Sensor and check connections to the Water Temperature Sensor.
To access, you will have to UNPLUG your washer and remove the lower access panel under the door. The panel comes off by removing the screws under the bottom edge. HINT: If you place a 2 x 4 under the front feet of the washer, it will make access to the screws much easier. If the panel sticks, a tap on the sides will knock it free. The panel will drop down then come off. The sensor (NTC) is located at the base of the wash tub in the front on the heating element. This will be a small square shaped plug between the heating element terminals. Make sure this plug is secure and not loose or unplugged. It is common for the connector plug to come loose due to vibration. If the plug is intact, check the contacts for corrosion. If everything appears as it should, then unplug the wire harness and take a resistance check. Readings will be as follows:
Temperature Meter Reading
32°F (0°C) 35.9 K ohms
86°F (30°C) 9.7 K ohms
104°F (40°C) 6.6 K ohms
122°F (50°C) 4.6 K ohms
140°F (60°C) 3.2 K ohms
158°F (70°C) 2.3 K ohms
203°F (95°C) 1 K ohms
Roughly...around 9K ohms at room temperature if I'm reading the chart correctly. Take readings as listed and also double check the connector to make sure it is not oxidized. Try cleaning the plug and reconnecting to see if the error code goes away. If not, you will probably have to replace the sensor. If the sensor checks good, take a reading across the heating element terminals. It should indicate about 15 ohms.
Lastly, remove the washer top panel by removing the three screws holding the panel in place in the rear. Once the screws are removed, slide the panel back then off. Locate the Central Control Unit (CCU) directly behind the wash tub. Take a resistance check at the Heating Element Solenoid by removing connector 9 from the CCU (this is the second connector from the RIGHT as facing from the front). A reading across test points 1 & 2 should also read 15 ohms.
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Posted on Sep 28, 2010
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