NEED TO WIRE A OIL FURNACE FAN FOR LOW SPEED IN HEAT AND HIGH SPEED IN COOL

E118/E218 Four possible causes.

Reversed high and low speed wires
Hall effect sensor not seated properly
Wire routing coming in contact with the rubber end cap on the cooling fan
Upper plenum coming in contact with the rubber end cap on the cooling fan

E118/E218 Four possible causes.

Reversed high and low speed wires
Hall effect sensor not seated properly
Wire routing coming in contact with the rubber end cap on the cooling fan
Upper plenum coming in contact with the rubber end cap on the cooling fan

The circuit diagram for the standard control model shows the blower has a two-speed motor, connected directly to the power line in "Cool" mode, or connected to the temperature control in "Cook" mode. When the blower slows down during cooking, switch it temporarily to "Cool" mode. If it goes to normal speed, the problem is with the mode switch contacts or the wiring terminals between the fan mode switch and the temperature control board, or the control board itself.

If the speed does not change, check the wiring terminals at the speed switch common terminal (I assume your problem occurs in both low and high speeds). If you find tarnished, loose, or burned terminals, clean, repair or replace as needed. (In extreme cases, a loose terminal will cause the wire to overheat, damaging the insulation, oxidizing the terminal and causing a high-resistance condition that will reduce the voltage available to the motor.) If the connections are all good, the motor bearings are probably getting sticky at high temperatures. Let the oven get hot enough for the blower to slow down, then shut it off and check the blower bearings while wearing oven mitts.

OK door mech's first. The chain gear will not warp, it is probably a seized-up chain link and the turnbuckles usually wire-brush up fine. Add some release fluid and they should adjust easily. Check the grub screws in the chain gears as these DO work loose. The chains are fitted to the adjustment rods/turnbuckles with split links. The chains and links could be replaced if the old ones are just to seized to free off. Once the door is adjusted correctly, apply copper grease (Like the stuff used on brake parts) to the chains, gears, door switch cam and hinge points. Makes a massive difference to their reliability.
Now the motor. Several variants were fitted but if I am correct, all the ICV ovens had two 11-pin relays in the control panel one for high and one for low speed. If one fails in the on position, both high and low speeds are energised together (huge buzz no motor). The relays are far more likely to be failed than a motor (assuming a brown out was just a loss of power/low power and not a massive power surge/spike). Easy check for stuck relay is to take one out and check the motor on high then low speed. One would work the other would not. Now switch the relay that is unplugged and see if the opposite speed works. If neither speed works then check cook/cool/ off switch. The cool function and the door switch form part of a two-way circuit. If either the door switch or the cook cool switch are faulty you may loose the motor function. The switches have to be tested out of circuit so note the wire positions to aid correct placement when putting wires back. Only after you have done those tests should you go to the motor terminal box and test for voltage present. If it does prove to be a faulty motor, take it off and have it rewound or replace with new motor from Imperial. Certainly cheaper than a new oven!

Hello,

Is this a built in wall oven or a freestanding oven/range combo?

If its a wall oven the problem is going to be a high limit thermostat that went out. If it is a older model the high limit t-stat has a red reset button that can be pushed and power will be restored to controls. If it is newer once the high limit goes out it needs to be replaced. Now heres the tricky part on wall ovens, the high limit thermostat is inside control panel and it needs to be taken apart to get to that t-stat and that can be a problem trying to get it pulled out enough to get to control panel with the door being able to open. On that i wish you luck

Thier is also a high limit on the freestanding range its going to behind the back panel and easier to get it since your not dealing with something built into a cabinet

Good Luck,
Gene

The most common probem is burned wires going to the heater on the top of the oven cavity. Typically you will see the coating on the wire close to the heater all cracked and bare. You can usually just cut the wire back an inch and pull some slack up and reconnect the wire and you will be good. In some cases the wire will be burned to much and the whole wire will need to be changed. Any oven repair shop will sell you these high temp wires. DO NOT use regular wires they MUST be high temp rated.

Here is some other things to check if the heater wires look good.

COMPONENTS
IR Element
The IR element - a dual coil type heater - is located
in the bottom of the oven cavity. The first coil is the
heating coil. The second is the IR thermocouple
wire. The heating coil outputs 3000 watts at 208
VAC. The heating coil's resistance is 14.4 ohms at
room temperature.
The thermocouple coil is a Type K thermocouple
with a resistance of approximately 20 ohms at the
splices located approximately 6 inches from the
heater and 40 ohms measured at the extension wires
at the I/O control board.
The IR element is controlled via the K5 solid state
relay and the IR thermocouple via the I/O control
board.

Also try this

1. Verify the high-limit thermostat is not tripped.
o If high-limit is tripped, reset and allow the oven to warm up.
o If high-limit is not tripped, follow the instructions below.
High-limit thermostat is not tripped.
Place a small water load in a microwave/heat-resistant container
(approx. 275 ml) in the oven and place the oven in TEST MODE. Press
the MGTRON key to actuate the microwave. While holding down the
MGTRON key, watch the CC and IR temperatures. If either temperature
bounces substantially, there may be a noise (EMI) problem.
To correct this problem, examine the wire routing for each
thermocouple wire. If the wires are routed near any high voltage
components such as the magnetron or high voltage transformers, reroute
the wires. If this does not correct the problem, verify that both
magnetrons are securely mounted.

Good Luck

After grilling or cooking at higher temps leave the oven light on so the cooling fan continues to run for approx 1/4 hour, or whatever setting will keep the fan running...

The hi limit thermostat probably tripped during self clean. It can be manually reset. Turn off the power and remove the grill under the control panel. There is a two wire switch behind the door latch press in the red button on the switch. Reassemble and turn on the power. If it works you can reset the cooling fan to run longer which could cure your problem. Press and release upper broil button, press and release the up arrow, then hold down the broil button until it reads COOL 000. Press the up arrow until it reads COOL 200. Press cancel. Done.

SOunds like you need to reset the oven high limit switch. It should be located behind the grille obave the oven opening and below the control panel. There should be about 4-6 screws you need to take out to remove the grille to gain access. Turn the power of to the oven at the circuit breaker, then rech in with a screwdriver and push down on the little red button in the center of the hig limit until it clicks. the high limit should be about as big around as a quarter and have a wire going into one side and out the other. If this keeps tripping, you may have a bad cooling fan. When you run a self clean it should also run a fan to cool the components. You should be able to feel a breeze coming out of the bottom of the oven when the cooling fan (not the convection fan ) is running. If this fan doesnt run, it will trip that switch. Hope this helps!