Need a substitute for resistor m50d060s - Behringer Pmp3000 16 Channel Audio Mixer

The AN8054 is an integrated circuit used in the Casio Tone Bank M120 keyboard. If it has been blown off, you will need to replace it. An equivalent replacement for the AN8054 is the LM358N, which is a dual operational amplifier that can be used as a substitute. Other equivalent options you can consider include the LM741, LM7808, and LM324. It's always recommended to check the datasheet of the substitute IC to ensure it meets the specifications and requirements of the original IC.

Because there are other functions located in the amp chassis in the e100, there really isn't an aftermarket substitute. I think you're on the right track by rebuilding and retuning the current amp. Due to age, I'd just do it all at one time and be done with it.

Usually the amplifier will have "symmetry" and there will be matching resistors near the other power tubes that you can get the value from. This is PROBABLY a screen resistor for the tube and values are often around 470 ohms or so but I could not find a schematic. These USUALLY don't fail unless a tube has shorted. Heat sinks are NOT used. The best resistors for the purpose are "wire wound" ones and of a suitable wattage rating. Sometimes we put ceramic beads on the leads to raise the resistors off the board to allow air circulation. Occasionally solder will break and the arcing at the leads adds to the heat. If you trace where the resistor goes by pin number of the tube and the type of the tube that would help me to help you... trace a matching tube to the same pin and you will likely find a matching resistor. Note that some power resistors DO change color a bit after they get hot in use, but if they char or the coating falls off that is a failure.

Let us use a bit of logic to resolve this... I have an Axiom but it would be a lot of screws to take out to get to the part... so let us think about this. The resistor value starts with a "1" and we know it is 5% tolerance (gold). we know the resistor burnt up with likely 5 volts on it... Value could be 1000 ohms, however the voltages present (12 volts max) would NOT have burned up a resistor of 1000 ohms. The USB area is mostly 5 volts and across 100 ohms is only a quarter watt... not enough to really burn up a resistor... First thing is to MEASURE that the resistor s open... in spite of being burned, it MAY still be OK... these resistors now usually either open or remain close to their value. The resistor ALSO may be a fusible resistor intended to act as a fuse... Is the resistor open or not? is it near a resistance with a "1" as the first digit? If it is not open I suspect it is not all of the problem. In that case, look for a burned circuit trace on the board. If it is open, then MEASURE the voltage across the resistor with the power applied. If you find 5 volts, then it MIGHT be a 10 ohm used to limit the USB current to 500ma. Get back to me with your findings... I have unraveled many of these things...

The resistor is acting as a fuse and will continue to blow until you fix the REAL problem. LIKELY the filter capacitor(s) beyond the bridge rectifier are failing. One needs to use test equipment to measure the current through the resistor and see if it is reasonable. The capacitors can heal briefly and then start to short. One should also check the rectifier in operation with an oscilloscope as one diode could intermittently short.

The ipod is stereo and the Marshall is mono. You would need to "mix" the left and right channels of the ipod. You could use a simple passive mixer made of two resistors, one from each of the two channels from the IPOD to a single plug for the Marshall. Just joining the two channels without the resistors would have the IPOD outputs fighting each other. You can use 1 K ohm resistors. All parts are available at Radio Shack.

Try this site:

http://parts.digikey.com/1/parts/1015239-igbt-w-diode-600v-75a-to247ac-irgp50b60pd1pbf.html

This is an apparent equivalent.

The dial could have a desoldered pin or oxydized slider contacts. Try to resolder the pins, but if that doesn't solve it then you would need to disassemble and clean the internal slide contacts on the dial which can be a bit difficult, so the alternative is to replace the dial if you can find a spare one.

To bypass the dial (with fixed resistances) you need to know the resistance at each side of the dial when it is in the position that suits your needs (connect the snare to a working input, set the sensitivity as needed, mark the position of the dial).

The resistance can be measured with an ohm meter.
To be sure that the measuring will be accurate, it is ok to remove the dial from the circuit board (adjacent components may affect the measured value).
You should do the measuring on a dial that is good.

After you've removed the dial, set it to the position that you marked previously.

Measure the resistance between left and middle pin of the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which you need to connect to the left and middle hole on the circuit board.
Now measure the resistance between middle and right pin on the dial - this will be the value of the fixed resistor which will be connected to the middle and right hole on the circuit board.

Now you need to get resistors which have the values that you've measured and solder them in place of a bad dial.

It is likely that the measured value will differ from the standard fixed resistor values. To achieve the exact measured value, you can connect two or more fixed resistors in series, just make sure that the added value of the fixed resistors for each side is the same as the measured value on each side of the dial.

Now you need to solder the fixed resistors to the circuit board and the modification is complete.

If you actually decide to do this modification and you're unsure about anything, just post me some feedback, i'll be glad to help.

Anyway, hopefully it is just a desoldered pin that you need to reflux.

Regards,

Triarcuate

go to
http://www.crateamps.com/support/index.php
you may find what you are looking for there.

I can't find a schematic that references the transformer and cannot find a replacement either. I'd contact Fender for a reccomended substitute.