DeLonghi kettle is leaking

They are pretty much a disposable item when they fail. You could try repairing with epoxy putty. Some bases can be screwed a bit tighter.

https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941

Manual

RUSSELL HOBBS 18941

and regarding kettle leaks

https://www.google.com/search?q=KETTLE+MOD+18941+leak+at+base

..

If your electric tea kettle is leaking water from the bottom, it is likely that the seal or gasket between the heating element and the kettle body is damaged or worn out. Here are some steps you can take to fix the issue:

1. Unplug the kettle and let it cool down completely before attempting any repairs.
2. Check the bottom of the kettle for any visible cracks, holes, or damage. If you find any, you may need to replace the entire kettle.
3. If the bottom of the kettle looks fine, remove the base of the kettle by unscrewing the screws or pressing the release button (depending on the model). This will expose the heating element and the gasket.
4. Inspect the gasket for any signs of wear or damage. If it looks worn or torn, you will need to replace it with a new gasket. You can find replacement gaskets at the manufacturer's website or an appliance parts store.
5. Carefully remove the old gasket and clean any residue or debris from the gasket groove.
6. Install the new gasket in the groove, making sure it is properly seated and not twisted or pinched.
7. Reattach the base of the kettle and tighten the screws or press the release button to secure it in place.
8. Test the kettle to ensure that it no longer leaks.

If you are uncomfortable attempting these repairs yourself, it is recommended to contact the manufacturer's customer service or a professional appliance repair technician to assist you.

JAMES WE ARE NOT ASSOCIATED WITH DeLonghi but I have owned a couple things they made and could never get them to assist me with a FIX so I do not buy their junk anymore

Methinks YOU are going to have TWO problems! The two screws shown are quite 'special' and you will need special BITS to remove them!




Bravetti EK109B kettle Google Search

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(just kidding)

Anthony
PS eBay has them too but BE SURE it is a USA seller or you MAY be waiting from that slow boat from China!

For the kettle's black 'charging' base:
Unplug this charging base immediately. Let it dry out completely. If you have an air hose, contact cleaner or Electronics Duster (compressed air) to displace the water.

If you're kettle stopped working after its fully dry (wait a day to be safe), make sure it's still unplugged and check the contacts in the base center for corrosion (there's the center ground pin and if you push down on it's spring-loaded ring around the ground pin you'll find two more inner/outer circumferential contacts). If you see corrosion try to clean them with a cotton swab (like Q-Tip) and alcohol and retry.


For the kettle's stainless steel 'pitcher' base:
It's the same as above but you'll need to expose the bottom for best results and to find out where's this water it leaking from.

You'll need to remove the 3 Phillips screws and one safety-screw with a "spanner insert bit" on your driver. If you don't have access to one of those and your kettle leaks when filled then I'd bet it's cheaper to replace than to repair, sorry.

Please try and check the link below:
http://www.espares.co.uk/search/kettles/morphy-richards/p/1102/511

I took the base apart an repaired the electrical connection. You need a special screwdriver to remove the 3 base screws. I took an old, cheap flat-head driver and filed a v-notch in the middle of the blade so it would work to remove the screws. Had to replace the connector because of corrosion. That fixed the problem for me.

PROBLEM:

My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17.  I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down.  However, the light and power together seemed finicky.  That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up.  When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have.  It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
SOLUTION:
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have.  So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle.  I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each.  It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch.  There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element.  Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center.  When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move.  They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit.  My problem was they were not making a good contact.  The contacts are hidden behind the tabs.  All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact.  The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this.  Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.