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DeLonghi kettle is leaking

The kettle is leaking from the base. How can it be fixed? I have unscrewed the 3 screws at the base and tried to remove the base but what is the procedure for removing the base?

Posted by Liam L'Etrange on


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Pierre Laplante

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i got a saeco vienna digital i got the same problem that screw jam the same as our i clean the filter with water and air if you whant to try something try to soak in decalcifier it gonna melt the calcium cheers

Posted on Jan 16, 2008



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This is a two slice Delonghi toaster, model CT12 and is has stopped heating on the right side

Posted on Jun 27, 2008



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SOURCE: I have a DeLonghi coffe

I am sorry but these are just replaced not repaired, that is why you have been unable to find a repair center to do the job, the cost to repair is near or exceeds the cost to replace and in many instances. My best advice to you is just replace the coffee maker, it is the most cases with this type of appliance the most cost effective option by far.

Posted on Nov 12, 2010

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Related Questions:


RUSSELL HOBBS 18941 KETTLE has slow leak from the bottom of kettle.

They are pretty much a disposable item when they fail. You could try repairing with epoxy putty. Some bases can be screwed a bit tighter.



and regarding kettle leaks


We are on our second DeLonghi Argento Flora kettle in 3 weeks. In both cases on lifting the kettle off the base there is anl amount of water on the base. Is this normal.

JAMES WE ARE NOT ASSOCIATED WITH DeLonghi but I have owned a couple things they made and could never get them to assist me with a FIX so I do not buy their junk anymore

How do I remove the bottom of my Bravetti EK109B kettle to fix the contacts?

Methinks YOU are going to have TWO problems! The two screws shown are quite 'special' and you will need special BITS to remove them!


Bravetti EK109B kettle Google Search

But check THIS out!
33 Pc Security Bit Set ($7)

And if THAT is not enough, see THIS! ($10 and a MUCH better buy ~ AND you could be the envy of all men on your block!)

100 Pc Security Bit Set with Case

PERFECT if you need to modify your Cable Box!!
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PS eBay has them too but BE SURE it is a USA seller or you MAY be waiting from that slow boat from China!

How do you replace the thermostat on a pitco fryer?

Drain the fryer. Cleaning the kettle will make things easier. Remove the thermostat knob and remove the two screws that hold the thermostat. Remove the two wires. Under the kettle you will see a double headed bolt with a tiny stainless tube running through them. Make sure that you do no confuse the one for the thermostat with the one for the high limit. Loosen or completely unscrew the small inner nut. Unscrew the large outer nut. Inside the kettle, locate the sensor bulb that corresponds to the thermostat. Remove the bracket and vertically straighten the sensor bulb. From under the kettle pull the sensor bulb and wire down and remove thermostat. Clean the fitting where you removed the bulb. Replace with new thermostat in reverse order. Avoid sharp bends in the sensor wire. Use Teflon tape on the large nut. The small nut is a compression fitting and does not need Teflon tape. Reclamp the sensor bulb and pull excess tubing from the kettle before tightening the small nut. Be careful not to cross thread the nuts. Do not over tighten the small nut. Refill the fryer and check for leaks.

Kettle base got water .keeps do i solve problem

For the kettle's black 'charging' base:
Unplug this charging base immediately. Let it dry out completely. If you have an air hose, contact cleaner or Electronics Duster (compressed air) to displace the water.

If you're kettle stopped working after its fully dry (wait a day to be safe), make sure it's still unplugged and check the contacts in the base center for corrosion (there's the center ground pin and if you push down on it's spring-loaded ring around the ground pin you'll find two more inner/outer circumferential contacts). If you see corrosion try to clean them with a cotton swab (like Q-Tip) and alcohol and retry.

For the kettle's stainless steel 'pitcher' base:
It's the same as above but you'll need to expose the bottom for best results and to find out where's this water it leaking from.

You'll need to remove the 3 Phillips screws and one safety-screw with a "spanner insert bit" on your driver. If you don't have access to one of those and your kettle leaks when filled then I'd bet it's cheaper to replace than to repair, sorry.

My Cuisinart electric tea kettle just stopped working - where can I get a new base? Model is discontinued CJK -17bc

I took the base apart an repaired the electrical connection. You need a special screwdriver to remove the 3 base screws. I took an old, cheap flat-head driver and filed a v-notch in the middle of the blade so it would work to remove the screws. Had to replace the connector because of corrosion. That fixed the problem for me.

Brokem switch on bodum kettle,

The problem with your bodum kettle is not the switch but the fuse that is in the bottom of the kettle. Because you cannot stop the boiler even when it is empty, the boiler overheat and burn the fuse at the bottom. You must unscrew the 3 screws at the bottom part of the kettle (not the base), then unscrew a nut that retain the fuse in a gain to the base. cut the wires and replace the fuse by a new one (less than 2 dollars on ebay). You should not exceed the temperature of the fuse(172 C) as it will melt your boiler if there is no water. Thats why you have to put a fuse. This helps me resolve my button issue with my bodum kettle.

How do I clean the contact points between kettle and platform?


My problem was similar for the Cuisinart KUA-17.  I clicked down the on switch and it stayed down.  However, the light and power together seemed finicky.  That is, the light came on if I positioned the kettle in the base correctly, but then it sometimes went off without triggering the switch to pop up.  When the light went off while the switch remained down the water never boiled, but when I was lucky to position it such that the light remained on, the water did boil and the switch popped up ... as it should have.  It seemed to be getting more and more finicky and difficult to position correctly ... so I took it apart.
First of all, the base has screws that take a triangle screwdriver which I don't have.  So I found a small flat-headed screwdriver (like one you'd use for glasses) that just fit along one side of the triangle.  I was able to get three base screws out this way and since I expected to need to do this again in the future, I used my dremel to grind a larger flat-headed screwdriver slot in each.  It's been about a year and a half since I fixed it last time and this time I was glad I had the slots.
Once you get the plastic base off, you'll see the mechanics of the switch.  There are two wires that both turn on the light and power the heater element.  Where the wires connect to the switch mechanism, there are two metal tabs that stick out in opposite directions from the center.  When the switch is pushed down, you can see these two tabs move.  They are each moving to touch a contact and complete the electrical circuit.  My problem was they were not making a good contact.  The contacts are hidden behind the tabs.  All I had to do was bend the contacts one millimeter closer (i.e. as little as possible) so that they would make a good contact.  The only other trick was I had to remove the switch mechanism from the bottom of the kettle to do this.  Then I just used the same small flat-headed screwdriver to bend the contact as in the picture below.
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