Valves don't operate

P 1388--Variable Cam Timing Over- (Bank 2)


VCT solenoid valve stuck open
Camshaft advance mechanism binding
Need Correct Oil Filter

I will speculate here & say you don\'t run 5W-20 full
syn oil & don\'t change every 4,000 miles since motor
was new

Now you have oil flow issues with the solenoid or failed
cam actuators

if you can see the ignitor glowing on either the broiler or the lower area of the oven then the gas valve is bad and not opening anymore,sometimes the ignitors are the culprit as they are in series with the gas valve and if weak wont let the valve open,but both upper and lower burners not operating i would suspect a gas valve first

Fixed--- I don't think so !!

3 Mechanics-that is sad

How about the power brake booster?
Was that checked & the vacuum check valve okey?

You wouldn't be happy if that solved the issue & you
got the valve off the wall on a trip thru the parts store
& installed yourself

What about ABS Issues?

What happens if you command the valves open
with a scan tool,bleed system & test drive with scanner
and valves still open or disconnect the motor to it & drive
around a few days.

I remember a load leveler valve under the back on
the drivers side on some caravans?

The fluid has to go somewhere,if not back into the reservoir,
then the abs unit maybe.

Better check the not leaking part yourself, unless you don't
loose any fluid

You bleed them there okey for 3 days,why,that is the key,
then what?

Very seldom you can find compression specs anymore

You compare one cylinder to the next

Should be no more than 15% difference from highest
reading to lowest cylinder

The first thing to do is a Cylinder Lead Down Test
That will tell you if the intake or exhaust valves leak
or the rings leak

Then you really don't need a compression test,unless
your curious & time isn't important.

If the valves are not leaking, then the timing belt may be
a problem,if you have one of them.

With the A/C on your just confirming an engine idle &
operating performance issue

As always

Check for codes,not just generic & free code reader ones
Need a professional scan tool check

Need a good Battery
Good Battery Cables & all Vehicle Grounds
No vacuum Leaks
No neglected maintenance

The do the timing belt visual inspection

Best to do cylinder leak down & may as well
do compression.

Don't over look ignition misfires

You may be missing the basics & getting
ahead of yourself

Number 5 is your thermopile/pilot generator. It is a pilot generator that does 2 things. It holds open the valve with a safety magnet and it operates the safety valve solenoid whenever the control stat calls for heat. Overtime they get weak and will hold the pilot but not operate the valve solenoid. I would replace that pilot generator.thermopile and party on!

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

You should have a valves on the hoses from the skimmer to the pump & the pump to the return.
If you don't have these valves then the pool is draining into the pump from the skimmer and/or return. If you do not have any valves block the skimmer and/or return port & isolate the pump so you have clean the basket.

NOTE don't forget to open the valves/ unblock the lines when you turn the pump back on so it does not burn out.

Since the main burners and the rear infrared burner (if so equipped) comes already installed, I don't think your assembling it is the problem. It's probably the grill's gas regulator that is giving you the problem. That's assuming you are following the manual's instructions on how to light the burners, the first time. For now, Ill assume you did. If you open the gas tank valve to fast, it shoots high pressure to the regulator & locks it up.

So, to solve the problem, follow the directions below:

1. Turn the gas tank valve OFF and disconnect the hose from the tank.

2. Wait 5 minutes and reconnect the hose to the tank.

3. Open the tank valve VERY, VERY SLOWLY (Slow motion, slow).

4. Once the tank valve is fully open, light the burner farthest from the tank first and set the burner
control knob on HIGH. Does the flame height look correct for being set on HIGH? If so, light
the remaining burners the same way. Do all the burner flames look correct? If so, you solved
the problem. Remember, to always open the tank valve Very, Very Slowly.

If that didn't solve the problem, you will need to replace the grill's Hose/Regulator Assembly (It's 's not under warranty). It runs about $30.00 at any home center or hardware store that sells grills & accessories. If you replace it, turn the tank valve ON Very, Very Slowly.

Hope this helped you to troubleshoot and solve the problem. Happy Grilling!! And thanks for choosing FixYa.

The problem is an easy fix. Replace the current Hose/Regulator Assembly with a new one. They run about $30.00, at home centers and hardware stores that sell grills and accessories.

Once you install the new one and connect it to the gas tank, open the gas tank valve Very Very Slowly (Slow Motion, Slow) until it's fully open. If you don't do it this, the new regulator will lockup.

Hope this helps you & thanks for choosing FixYa.

hmmm im a bit conflicted here the ignitor does indeed come on yet there is only 2.4 vac to it hmm,it operates at 120vac and there is no way the ignitor would come on at only 2.4 vac so i suspect that your misreading the meter and it is 110-120 vac and that eliminates all other possibilites and the ignitor is weak is weak and not pulling the required 3.2-3.6 amps to open the gas valve if you have a amp clamp is to one of the wires and if it is below 3.2 amps replace the ignitor then enjoy your baked meal

most likely it will be the ignitor,even though it glows it doesn't mean the ignitor is good.it works on amps.a flat ignitor takes 3.2 amps to open the gas valve and a round ignitor takes 2.5 amps to open the valve,the only way to check it is to replace it and i would or if you have an amp meter with a clamp on it you just stick one of the wires going to the ignitor inside the clamp and it will tell you how many amps are coming out of the ignitor.buy a new ignitor and you should be fine.it calls for ignitor part number 31940001 and it's around 50 dollars.