I have a Pop-A-Lot model 2007, serial DAU-S- 4591 where can I buy a new stirring shaft and the bronze bearing that it rides in?

Possible that one of the u joints in the new drive shaft is bad. If you have a 2 piece shaft then the slip shaft may be dry. Possible transmission mount shifting or bad.

The Manufacturers Serial and model numbers should be on a plate under the seat. Go to the Cub Cadet Website navigate to Manuals, enter the Serial/Model numbers and the year of manufacture should pop up.

You definitely have a pilot bearing, ask a. Napa dealer to find you one, if they don't see it in the book listed.
its going to be part of the clutch kit you'll be buying to replace your old one.
in the kits you get a pressure plate, release bearing, disc, alignment tool, and pilot bearing, Beck Arnley is a good choice.
if you want just a bearing you'll probably need, the input shaft diameter where the bearing rides, the inner diameter of the flywheel hole it's inserted in, and the depth of the hole in the flywheel.
you should have to much trouble finding one.

Take the kettle crossbar assy off the kettle and look and see if there is a set collar above the shaft weight. If so loosen it so you can slide the weight up...enough to get the old one out and the new one in.

Hello Rodney,

Do you have a model and serial number? (Usually located under the seat). I need this info to properly answer your question. I found a diagram that may help in the mean time.

I’m happy to assist further over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/layne_0fccff498c319c32

Joseph, Most likely it is the bronze bushing at the other end of the steering shaft. You will need to remove the mower deck to access it more easily. The steering gear could be replaced at the same time if you want, you will be right there at both the bushing and the gear, the sector shaft hopefully is ok. You can view this with a flash light before disassembly. It is on the steernig shaft that goes behind the fuel tank, down into the frame. As you or a helper turn the steernig wheel back and forth, you can see the engagment of the steering gear and the sector shaft, to determine if they need replacing too. Your dealer should have a dozen or so of those bronze bushings. Its not a bad job to do.

Matt

If you need further help, I’m available over the phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/matt_8dbc24bf722649ac

Unfortunately, this fan was designed to be ran until it wouldn't run anymore, then thrown out.

However, I likely know what the problem is. The motors in these and most other small fans are a C-Frame Shaded pole design, they have porous bronze bearings, with a small amount of wicking material around them. They supposedly are oiled when they leave the factory (the motor factory not the fan factory) What happens is, the oil on the bearing surface is churned around by the rotating shaft and the heat from the motor slowly evaporates it, as this happens, the wicking provides more oil, which soaks through the porous bronze bearing, keeping everything lubricated. Over time, two things happen, 1. If the oil used wasn't very pure (and we are talking a $15 fan here) the volatile parts of the oil will evaporate leaving behind what won't evaporate, therby "gumming" up the bearings, making the blade hard to turn by hand and the fan very hard to start running, but once it gets going, it runs OK.

2. All the oil evaporates out, then the bearing and shaft are running together dry, the motor will run like this for quite sometime as the bronze is softer than the shaft and the metal coming off the bearing will provide some lubrication, but the bearing is being eaten up by the harder shaft. Eventually, the bearing will wear so much that the rotor drags on the stator and the fan will suddenly lock up hard when running and make a loud buzzing noise like hair clippers.


From what I remember, I had one of these that I used to boost the output from an oil filled radiator and when it gummed up, I was going to take it apart and re-oil it, but the thing is held together with security screws which I didn't have the tool to remove, so I threw it out.

However, if you can get in it, open it up, pop the blade off the shaft by pulling on it, motor should be held in with 2-4 screws, get some 3 in 1 oil (in the blue can) and oil both at the shaft and behind it where the wicking is. Leave the motor hanging there, plug it in, run it for a while to get it warm and oil it again, then put it back together and it should go back to working for a few more years.

Hope this helps :)

Sorry, no spare parts are available.

The oil is leaking around the stirring-arm-motor shaft -- it needs a new seal. It's not the oil you're using.