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Can't find thermostat

I took the back panel off the oven and couldn't find tht part number you provided. The only thing that looks close is a WP 3196958 and it has Model 150 150-126903 5RPM 120V 60HZ 4W CCW Class F 263 342-19 Is this the thermostat or do I have to take an additional panel off the back to find it?

Posted by Eric Smith on


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  • 331 Answers

SOURCE: no heat

You have an airflow restriction and it's most likely in the vent inside the wall leading outside. I know this because the dryer is trying to do its' job (and that the default "fail" mode on the t'stats is "open". That is to say... if a t'stat fails, the dryer won't heat).

The only other thing that causes an overheat condition is a failed blower assy. When these fail, though, the dryer makes an awful racket. And since you didn't mention an awful racket, I go with clogged vent pipes in the walls.

When my customers call who have the same symptoms as you, I don't even bother running the service call (costs me money, but I'm an honest guy). I recommend they call a dryer vent service or a chimney sweep service.

Hope this helped!


P.S. The way to test my diagnosis is simple. Disconnect the dryer vent from the wall and start the dryer. That's it! You'll see the flame behaving properly and the dryer will function normally.

Posted on Apr 05, 2009



  • 3301 Answers

SOURCE: kenmore model number 41784052500 runs

did he check the timer? If the machine isn't getting a command to go into the start mode, that could be your problem ,, However Label the wires connecting to your timer motor so that you will be able to correctly reconnect them later. Carefully remove the wires. Do not pull on the wire itself. Instead, use needle nose pliers to pull gently on the wire connector.

Set your ohmmeter to the R x 1 setting. Take each probe and touch it to one wire. A normal reading for most dryers is in the 2000 to 3000 ohms range. Try to locate a schematic for your dryer. It should be in one of the service areas of your dryer or in the owner's manual. This schematic should indicate the proper resistance reading for your specific timer motor.

Posted on Jul 15, 2011


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Hi there i keep getting an F3 error message

that's a bad oven sensor,if you have a meter you can read it out it should read around 1080 have a clock assy. or computer board same thing instead of an oven thermostat.unplug the stove pull it out from the wall,open the oven door and you'll see the sensor screwed onto the top back inside wall of the oven.remove the two screws,go in the back remove panel and you'll see the sensor wires usually on the back right side,you can unplug it and then pull it out from inside the oven,then slide the wires through the back wall,put in the screws go in the back and reconnect the time send the brand name and model number so whoever helps you can give you part number.go here put the model number in and you can look up your sensor
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Oven not heating up is it the thomostate

first thing to check is tht the oven probe inside the oven isnt close to or touching and oven element, if not then probablya blown uper or lower element if not then thermostat

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Good Morning Friend,

I understand that you are receiving an F30 error code on your Electrolux oven. I will be more than happy to assist you. In order to better assist, I will need the model number of your oven. If this is a wall oven, you can find the model number located on the back of the door. If this is a range, you will find the model number either on the back of the door or in the bottom drawer. Looking forward to hearing from you.


How do i remove the front panel from the whirlpool accubake double oven

1. You need to pull the oven out a few inches to be able to access two screws on each side of the control panel. On my oven, I needed to open the lower oven and remove a screw from each side to allow a vertical cover piece to be removed. With those pieces removed, there were two screws on each side that went into the wood frame around the oven. I also had a screw on the bottom of the oven, but it didn't not look standard. With those screws removed, the oven pulled out fairly easy. Just need to pull out far enough so that the two screws on the control panel assembly are accessible.
2. Remove those two screws and the panel can slide out once a number of cables have been removed. I took a picture of the connections before removing so I was sure I would put them back correctly (see below). The ribbon cable comes off by raising the plastic piece on top of the connector.

I replaced my panel with a Sears part that had been rebuilt. I couldn't find any new parts anywhere. It's been three weeks and, so far, my oven is working fine.

Oven sometimes works ok other times takes twice as long to cook . Think it may be thermostat .I have no experience of repairing ovens Is it difficult to change thermostat

sometimes they are hard to get to, looking at this picture i would think the panel has a screw or two on it that have to be removed , and always remove the power first, the thermostat has a capilery that goes into the oven , it is kind of like a long small tube that has a larger tube at the end of it , the end is what feels the heat so this long hose like tube will have to be sneaked back into where you took the old one out of. you must be very careful with the new one or you will be buying more of them if you get back to me Model, make, serial number i will locate one for you to buy ,, also temp range on the one you now have in the oven you can find this by looking a the knob temps ...Frank

I have an old whirlpool electric range model number WGE33300, not self cleaning oven for many years. The four top electric burners are fine, but today both oven heating elements will not operate and the...

I was looking at your wiring diagram. A red wire goes to a limit and then enters into a terminal box and feeds L-2 power to both element. I would be looking real close at that limit. It has a orange wire on one side and a red wire o the other terminal and most of these here limits look a lot like this one.
I am gonna try and link ya to the diagram but I doubt WP will allow it. Mighty funny both ements in the oven have took a dump. I suspect that limit. Next I will try and find a part number for that limit and maybe we can see that puppy. Hang on. Looks like it could be NUMBER 8
now let see how much that puppy costs and hopefully what she looks like. Hang on. $40 bucks
Dang that seems to me like a lot. Notice they don't post a pic either. Know why? Because they know yall can get generic ones by looking at the stamped metal temp numbers on the part. A klixon is a klixon. This ques is makin me curious to bust open my parts catalog and see what come up with.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at


1999 chevy cavalier. wasn,t getting heat to inside. put in new thermostat. heated up fine for a couple of miles, then cool air. shut off when got back home. anitfreeze was bubbling back out of reservoir....

make sure you get ALL the air out run it without cap until you see water circulate turn heater to hot NO FAN ABOUT 5 MIN close cap ,see if that works

Wall electric oven gets hotter than the tempature reading on the control dial

If this has a manual turn oven control (not electronic) you will have to replace the oven control thermostat.
First shut the power off to the oven at the main breaker. Remove the screws holding the front control panel in place. Some of the screws are located inside the oven and some are on top of the control panel. Tilt the control panel forward to access the oven thermostat. While holding the new thermostat in your hand transfer each wire the the corresponding numbers on the new thermostat. Unclip the oven sensor from inside the oven and feed it into the control panel area.Remove the screws holding the old thermostat to the control panel and discard old thermostat.
Insert new thermostat into the control panel and screw to panel.
Reinsert the thermostat sensor into the oven cavity and fasten to clips.
Re assemble control panel.
WARNING: make sure that no wires are touching when reassembling.
When everything is back together, turn power back on and test temperature.

Control panel went off and hence it stopped working

It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.

If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.

When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.

If the cavity thermostat needs to be checked or replaced you'll need to pull the oven from the wall.

You can download Frigidaire / Whirlpool installation instructions here.

If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.

If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.

If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.

If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.

You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.

There should also be a "mini-manual" (tech sheet) hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting, testing, and locating components.

At our Web site, we have a video available showing how to remove a typical over the range control panel assembly in under 5 minutes.

We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.

My oven is locked, after it self cleaned itself. How do I unlock my oven door?

I had this problem but my digital display went blank also. After searching the internet it seems to be a common problem. I changed the FIXED THERMOSTAT . Part # 8300802. It looks like a large watch battery with to electrical connectors affixed with 2 screws. I unplugged the power and shut the gas off. Took off the back metal sheet panel at the back . ( 10 screws ) . I noted which wire went where and replaced it . Put the sheet panel back , plugged it in and turned on the gas and it was good to go. It took 15min. tops. I got the part supplier to print me off a diagram so I knew what I was looking at but if you get the part first you will know soon as you take the back metal sheet panel off. It's the only thing back there.
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