I have the same problem as djeff757 post on Kitchenaid KDRP467

sounds like overheated bad control board or transformer

Get me a complete model # number for this oven We then can give you step by step what to check .Knowing how to use a meter Is a big help with any electrical issues . Getting Us the model will tell us what is used to control your appliance, The big and first thing to check is the power do you have it all were it needs to be most ovens run on two legs of 110/120 volt. in combo Make 220 volt It all needs to be there or you will not get proper heat
.https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=NOdYp8CFjdU&feature=share

Parts #: W10317343
Substitution: WPW10317343 $145.98 at sears
Parts #: W10354052
Substitution: WPW10354052 $125.92 at sears
Part #: W10317347 front LED board $230 at sears
Many ovens have a bi-metal thermal fuse-also called a thermal limit switch-that protects the oven from overheating. The oven thermal fuse trips when the temperature in the oven gets too hot. After the thermal fuse trips, the oven won't heat. If the thermal fuse trips after the self-cleaning cycle, try resetting the fuse by turning off electricity to the oven, removing the exterior back panel, and pushing the reset button. If the fuse tripped during normal operation, replace it. If the problem persists, the electronic oven control board might require replacement. Reset the thermal fuse after replacing the control board.

You will need to replace the "control membrane" on the unit. Here is the part to order.

http://www.mendingshed.com/kitaidparts.html
http://appliancejunk.com/forums/index.php?topic=2935.0
above is a service and repair manual, in this it has everything to do with your unit, it has disassembly procedures and diagrams. There are two links if any trouble.

The thermal fuse on the back of the oven is out. Usually happens if the oven is installed incorrectly or the blower is too small to cool the back of the oven down while in self-clean mode.
I'd call KitchenAid (whirlpool) and ask if it needs the blower kit to fix it. Have your model&serial numbers handy.
In case it does not need the blower kit, the thermal fuse part number is 9759242, and it can be purchased here (use coupon "New10" for 10% off). Read my other post for the instruction how to get to the thermostat.

Replace the control panel thermal
fuse (Microtemp G4A01093C). Its in the wiring harness between
the control transformer and the control panel on a blue wire.
It looks like a resistor inside a clear plastic tube and is
mounted on a metal bracket with plastic clips. It has a spade
connection on each end. It can be accessed by removing
metal access panels from the back of the range and it
is in the area below the gas burner deck.

This sounds like a blown thermal fuse, a common problem. What model oven was this?

I had a similar problem. There's a thermostat before the control panel. You need to remove the knobs and the front panel to get to it. You'll also need to remove a couple of trim pieces to keep from bending the panel. The part number is Whirlpool W10017820, sells for about $40.

I recently encountered this issue after trying "self clean" on my KitchenAid oven for the first time. I wish I had read these forums and simply avoided the feature. KitchenAid was, of course, completely unhelpful since my warranty was expired. This is the first they've heard of the problem; perhaps search engines are prohibited within the KitchenAid community and they are unable to view the complaints of thousands of other customers as I have... but I digress.

The solution was straight forward: Don't worry about the locked door for now and pull the oven away from the wall. Safety first: unplug your oven and turn off your gas valve. Now remove the back panel. There is a sheet metal strip near the top of the oven that must be removed before the back panel comes loose. With the back panel removed, look for a circular device with a blue and white sticker on it and the part number: 8300802. This is a thermal fuse that blows when the oven gets too hot (apparently "too hot" is a subjective measure as normal operation during self clean will cause this issue). You can check it with a multimeter if you have one... a failed fuse will have a high resistance. To ensure this is your only issue and to immediately unlock your door, adventurous types can bypass the fuse by connecting the two wires that connect to the fuse and hold them together with some electrical tape. WARNING: never operate your oven in this manner. This is a quick test to verify resolution of the issue; not a permanent fix. Apply power to your oven and presto, your door will unlock and your front panel will illuminate.

Now, use the aforementioned search engine KitchenAid has never heard of and search for your new fuse: 8300802. I got mine for $34... you can probably find it for cheaper but my patience was wearing thin by the time I got to ordering a replacement part.

Oh, and one last step: never ever under any circumstances use the self clean feature. Do not take the easy route like I did: get your Brillo Pad and your Easy-Off and get dirty, you lazy bum.