Question about Dishwashers
For Miele Dishwasher G2470SCVI Need help with remaining water in the bottom. Model# G2470 SCV1 SF Type-HG03. Runs through the entire cycle,long,short ect..everything is clean and dishes look great but the cycle stops short starts beeping,I think I'm seeing F11.So Iv'e cleaned everything per manual,the pump fins are clean and spin freely, I can see water pumping out into disposal drain near the end of cycle but then it stops and beeps,Advice??please, Thank You..
See this causes and fix it. God bless you
Belt, Water Pump Although few dishwashers have a water pump belt, if the dishwasher won't drain there might be a worn or broken water pump belt. After removing the lower kick panel the motor can be seen in the front, the water pump belt is on the bottom of the motor.
Drain Pump If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain pump might be defective. Test the pump motor with an Ohm meter. Drain pumps are not repairable, if it's defective it will need to be replaced.
Drain Impeller The drain impeller is attached to the pump and pushes the water out of the dishwasher, through the drain tube and into the garbage disposer or drain line. If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain impeller might be broken or worn out. Replace both the impeller and seal at the same time.
Drain Solenoid Kit If the dishwasher won't drain, the drain solenoid kit might need to be replaced. The drain solenoid is an actuator that opens a flap to allow the water to drain.
Drain Valve The drain valve can get clogged with debris and should be cleaned out if the dishwasher won't drain. If it seems clear of debris but won't actuate, it will need to be replaced. The drain valve is not repairable.
Pump and Motor Assembly If the dishwasher won't drain, the pump and motor assembly might be defective. If the motor runs during the drain cycle, check for a blockage in the drain line. If the motor won't run during the drain cycle or if it just hums when it should be running, the pump and motor assembly might need to be replaced.
Clogged or Improperly Installed Garbage Disposer If the dishwasher won't drain and the garbage disposer was installed recently, the installer might have forgotten to knock out the drain plug from this disposer. All garbage disposers are sold with a solid plug in the drain tube for situations where a dishwasher isn't connected. However, if the dishwasher is connected, the plug will need to be removed. If the disposer wasn't replaced recently, remove the dishwasher drain hose from the disposer and clean out both the fitting on the disposer and the end of the drain hose. These are the most common places to find an obstruction if the dishwasher won't drain.
Drain Hose If the dishwasher won't drain the drain hose might be clogged. Remove the drain hose from both the dishwasher and the sink drain to clean it out. The most common place for an obstruction is at the garbage disposer.
Check Valve If the dishwasher won't drain the check valve might be stuck closed. The check valve is a small plastic device which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the valve gets stuck closed, it will prevent the water from draining. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher
Check Ball If the dishwasher won't drain the check ball might be stuck. The check ball is a small plastic ball in the check valve which prevents water from returning to the dishwasher after it has drained. If the ball gets stuck, it will prevent the water from draining also. The check valve is the device that the drain hose is attached to on the dishwasher.
Posted on Sep 29, 2012
Most dishwasher have a check valve at the pump to prevent water from backing into the dishwasher. If the pump is electric there is a rubber flat that may be gone or not working properly. If that is the case you need to replace the pump. If the pump is part of the motor assembly then the pump and motor will need to be replaced. One other thing to make sure of is that you have the drain hose looped to the top od the dishwasher and then to the disposal conection. Its called a drain loop and all dishwashers should have it. Good Luck
Posted on Jul 12, 2007
If you are still trying to sort out this issue try the following.
From what you say then it is most likely the aqua sensor on the side of the dishwasher. The gurgling sounds that you hear are likely the drain pump running and the un-drainable water sloshing in the sump.
Verify that there is actually water going to the dishwasher( Basic step but often overlooked)
Next the inlet valve will have to be checked. This is the part where the water line from the house connects to the dishwasher, under the toe/kick panel. Remove power from the dishwasher. Disconnect the dishwasher electrical connections (2 wires) to the inlet valve and connect it (carefully to 110 V power) using a jumper wire. With 110V power the valve should open and water will flow into the dishwasher, if not then the fault is in the inlet valve.
If this checks fine then the fault is likely in the aqua sensor...
On the outer left side (viewed from front) there is a panel, Behind this panel there is a small clear(of light blue) plastic mechanism with hoses and wires attached( There is usually a yellow disk at the top about 6cm in diameter) this is a float and sensor assembly there is tells the control the water level and works as an emergency drain if there is an issue. There will be a red stick protruding downward to the base and a Styrofoam float on which the stick rests. This is a pan overflow sensor if the stick is too high the unit will go into drain and cut off the fill valve power. The yellow disk is a diaphragm which senses water height. This unit can become stuck with wear and hard water.
Posted on Jul 28, 2008
I cleaned out the drain pump and non-return valve on my Miele G658/858 and that fixed the problem. The G841 may have similar parts. It's easy to do. In order: 1. Turn off washer. 2. Remove the triple filter (the basket on the bottom of washer with the little handle. Turn the handle and remove) rinse out and set-aside. 3. Remove the standing water. I used a wet vac to remove the standing water from the bottom of the machine, but you can scoop it out also. 4. Tilt the locking clamp (tilt left) to the side. (this is a metal wire covering the white plastic valve. This valve is to the right of the triple filter basket.) 5. Pull out the non-return valve and rise will under running water. You may have to wiggle the valve a little. Pull straight up and out. 6. The drain pump is beneath the non-return valve. (it has a little plastic propeller, like a paddle wheel, inside) 7. Spin the propeller several times in both directions to make sure it's clear. ( I used the shop vac with a small hose attachment to clear the drain above the propeller compartment) 8. Carefully refit the non-return valve and secure it with the locking clamp. 9. Refit and lock the filter in place.
I haven't had a problem since and my dished are much cleaner- The problem must have been coming on for a long time.
Hope this helps,
Posted on Oct 08, 2008
Hi. The above machine stops mid cycle and drain/fill light is on, also
error code F3E, have cleaned both hot and cold water inlet filters, also
checked drain pump and drain line, all ok. Machine drains with no
issues and fills with hot water, runs for a while then shuts down.
Posted on May 29, 2010
SOURCE: I have a Bosch dishwasher
Welcome to FixYa.
Based on your description I'd say the issue actually is with the control...unfortunately. This is commonly associated with a heating fault as you suspected, hence the odor and poor cleaning on Bosch built dishwashers ( various models including Bosch, Thermador, Siemens, Gaggenau, and Neff ).
Since the issue is likely within the electronic timer/control, specifically the heater relay solder joint. ( a faulty flow switch, ntc or heater can also cause this, but not very probable ). These are the steps you'll need to follow to resolve it or at least investigate.
If you feel capable of checking this on your own, there`s a way to visually inspect the control yourself...it really isn't very complicated.
It will require you to remove the control from the unit and then remove the control from it`s plastic housing and look for a burnt solder contact on the printed circuit board.
The culprit will 99% of the times be one of the pins from the heater relay,
**Flip this over and inspect the solder joints, it will be obvious when you see it.**
This ones new, but it's where to look...
...hence the unit sit`s and takes longer & longer to finish because it can`t heat to advance or unless the 2 buttons for "cancel" are pressed...this can also manifest as a long cycle time as I mentioned and eventually display's "1" on units with a display and usually very poor cleaning, no heating ( don't be fooled by the homes inlet hot water temperature ) as a result.
You can also run the unit through a regular or econo cycle ...any cycle with the exception of rinse & hold, and with the door panel removed place an ammeter on the gray/black wire it should draw 11 amps during the wash cycle...after it fills and the flow switch indicates it has adequate water to engage the heater.
i.e. ( this may differ from your specific model, but the same rules apply )
**My Opinion - if you or someone you know is proficient at soldering, a lot of times it can be remedied by simply repairing the solder...but it has to be done well...or it will not last. Bosch recommend`s replacing the control and I don`t pretend to speak on their behalf nor do I profess to know better. This is just my experience (it work`s) and my opinion (why buy new if one can repair ?)**
**Please disconnect the power or turn off the breaker before attempting any service to the dishwasher.**
If you do not feel comfortable attempting this service, call a local pro, preferably one familiar with Bosch/Thermador/Gaggenau/Siemens, to service your machine.
Thank`s for visiting "FixYa" for your repair inquiries. Please take a moment and rate this solution to it's helpfulness.
Posted on Feb 24, 2011
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