The gas is coming through, but does not light.

Check you flame. If the flame is very short (less than half way down the burner tube, it can be a gas pressure regulator failure. They are adjustable but that usually indicated it is about to fail. Make sure the flame ignites every time you hear the relay and solenoid valve click. The is a small panel on the front that can be removed to see the burner and the pressure regulator. The is a glow igniter that comes on several seconds before the gas is admitted. Confirm that works. Check at the dryer vent whether you smell gas once and a while which would be an indication of a failure to ignite.

Hi Jerry

Warning : Gas systems are generally safe but any gas smell should always be investigated by a certified technician as you can never be too safe.

That being said, let me try to assist you as best I can from my experience with gas appliances.

If the smell has been there since you bought the unit, it is probably the pilot you are smelling. Generally, a pilot light is first ignited using either an electro-mechanical switch or using electricity to create a spark.

While ignition is taking place, a small amount of gas is allowed to flow through the ignition pilot nozzle. The spark is meant to ignite the pilot flame. When the pilot flame is lit, a thermocouple is heated up and then allows gas to flow to the main burners. The gas in the main burners then ignites directly from the pilot flame. This is generally how gas burners work but there are many types of equipment and not all of them work on the same principles.

Generally when you smell gas before igniting the main burner but detect no smell after the main burner is on, it has to do with problems in the ignition stage. This could be caused by a number of things but often the ignition probe is the problem. The ignition probe arcs a spark between two probes or between a probe and the burner which is meant to ignite the pilot gas nozzle (or in some cases ignites the main burner directly). Everytime this spark is made, a small amount of carbon forms at the connection point of the sparks. The carbon can build up over time and cause difficulty sparking the ignition of the pilot burner. Spilled food can also cause this or speed up the buildup of carbon.

If the gas can't ignite the pilot immediately, the pilot keeps allowing gas to pass into the air until ignited which is what you could be smelling. Check to see how long after you try to start the burner does it actually ignite. More than a couple of seconds and you will be smelling the gas that escaped without being burned off.

You can try disconnecting the unit from mains power and cleaning the ignition probes on each burner. If the unit has a mechanical starter you should take extra care not activate it during cleaning as you could get a electric shock. Clean the probe with a damp cloth or paper towel and don't use any cleaning agents.

If this does not eliminate the smell you are getting before ignition, you should get a technician to test the unit. The explanation above is also very general as I don't know what specific system you are using so use the explanation given as general knowledge only and get a technician to perform the repairs.

Gas ovens / stovetop that use gas and not electricity. These work by igniting gas and use actual flame on the the stovetop.

Newest cook top styles, such as the induction or halogen cook tops combine the same style to produce more even heating. Some of these ovens feature thermal limiters or thermostats that regulate the burner system. I offer free advice bcuz God is so good!

GAS OVENS
The spark igniter tip is dirty (can clean it with either a little wire brush or a piece of fine sandpaper).
2) The Pilot flame is too low, and the tip of the igniter is not in the flame good enough. (the flame acts as a circuit when it touches the tip & completes the circuit).
3) The spark module is no good and needs to be replaced.(But 1 & 2 are your best bet).
spark module does not sense the flame when it's on. The spark igniter is also the flame sensor which provides feedback to the spark module.

Make sure the igniter is properly aligned with the burner lighting holes and it is clean. All lighting holes must be clean too. You can enlarge them using a drill bit one size bigger.

If it would not fix the problem, replace the bake burner and the igniter.
There is a small chance for the spark module itself to be bad as well.

The oven safety valve
(also called the gas valve) is the part that ensures that gas is not released until the igniter has reached the correct temperature needed to ignite the gas. While this part can fail, it is uncommon. If the hot surface igniter does not glow you should first verify that you have voltage to the circuit. This is a live voltage check and should be performed by a qualified person. If voltage is lost at the valve terminals then you should verify the continuity of the bi-metal in the valve using a multi-meter.

If this has an igniter could be flame sensor. Flame sensor tells gas valve that flame is present or it will kick out. Flame sensor should be small rod connected to one wire, and it is on the flame somewhere sometimes opposite end from igniter If you do have sensor turn power off remove sensor and clean If white film on it. I usually clean it with dollar bill

Things that could stop a gas dryer from heating:
- glow bar igniter, thermal fuse ( not all models ), coils on the gas valve, gas valve, thermostats, motor heat switch, timer, selector switch, sensor.
Problem -
Gas flame comes on first few times then quits and igniter keeps cycling on and off but never lets the gas go.
Answer ( most common ) -
Replace the coils on the Gas Valve.

Problem -
No flame, no igniter glowing at all,
Answer ( most common ) -
Inspect igniter for small burnt spot on dark gray or black part of igniter or check for 110 volts to igniter when dryer should be calling for heat.
You can get required parts from www.repairclinic.com

Thanks. Keep updated for any more query. You can rate this solution and show your appreciation.

Hello,
Your right side burners probably have small vertical lighting holes that are clogged where the pilot lights the burner. Use a sewing needle to poke each hole clean. While you're at it, poke clean the horizontal burner holes just to make sure they are not clogged either. Are there also little tunnels from the burners to each pilot flame? Make sure those are clean inside and attached properly on each end. The pilot flame should be approx 3/8" tall. Compare the working pilot flame to the non-working pilot flames and adjust as necessary. Each pilot has a small aluminum tubing running to it, the adjustment screw will be on this tube. You'll just need a small flat head screw driver to turn it counter-clockwise to increase flame. Hope this helps. Let us know if we can be of further assistance. Douglas

Replaced the igniter. The parts guy told me that the amperage changes with age and use; thus the igniter still glows, but it takes much longer to operate the gas valve with the reduced amperage. Cost - $70.14

Try taking out the orifice on the burner that is not lighting and make sure it isn't blocked.

A few years back I helped a neighbor with this same problem in a forced air, gas fired, "horizontal" furnace in his attic.

After having him cycle the thermostat a couple dozen times while I watched through the opening in the side of the furnace, I finally figured out what was happening.

First, there were about 6 cast iron burners [about 14 inches long with two rows of gas holes along the length]. These burners were parallel to each other and oriented perpendicular to the long axis of the furnace.

The gas was fed to the ends of the burners with a pipe manifold. The standing pilot light was at the center between burners 3 and 4. Due to the spacing distance between the burners, the pilot light was too far from even burners 3 and 4, the flame could not "jump" to ignite them, or any of the other burners. The manufacturer had installed a thin sheet metal "tent" which ran from the gas entrance end of burner 1 to burner 6, and was about 2 inches above the burner, AND the pilot light.

The standing pilot was on all the time. When the gas control valve turned on, gas began to come out of all the burners at the same time. Naturally it came out of the gas supply manifold ends of all the burners.

The "tent" captured that gas coming from the burners and "filled" up to over the pilot light which ignited the gas at that point, and the flame would propagate along the tent to ignite the gas coming out of all of the burners.

In my neighbors case, the tent had somehow become dislodged so that it did not cover all of the burner ends. For those burners which it did cover [including the pilot light] it caused the burners to light properly.

For those burners who's ends were not covered, and who's gas could not be captured, they would NOT ignite simultaneously with the others.

As these burners WERE feeding gas into the combustion chamber, the gas "envelope" would spread until it reached the nearest flame ignition source, at which time the entire "bubble" of gas would ignite with a minor boom [actually a low energy explosion]. Flame would momentarily shoot out of the burner chamber opening, and from that point the furnace would operate normally until the next restart cycle.

Although there could be several causes, I suspect that the symptoms you describe are the result of DELAYED IGNITION of some or all of the main burners.

IF this is the problem, then the solution is to clean all the burners [including the burner outlet holes in the ignition ends of the burners], clean out the burner compartment, AND properly adjust the orientation of whatever system [you have to evaluate how it works from analysis of YOUR furnace] your furnace has to ensure all burners ignite as close to the same time as possible.

When operating properly, the ignition should be a smooth transition, burner by burner, from the pilot to the farthest burners. In other words. the ignition will "flow" from the pilot outward to each adjacent burner until the farthermost ends ignite last. This usually doesn't take more than one or two seconds at the most.

Unless you are an experienced handyman, and understand this analysis and instructions, I strongly suggest that you engage the services of a professional furnace technician.

It's either the flame sensor or the gas valve.

The sensor senses flame and sends signal to the valve, the valve then sends gas through the burner/s.

If it's a thermocouple (looks like thisbefore installed) http://furnaceparts.com/eshop/products/thermocouple.jpg
then replace the thermocouple.
It sits right in the flame pattern and they usually cost less than ten bucks.