So, I had this problem with the first amp I got. I bought it from my friend after he had it for a little over a year with no problems. I got it installed in my car by his dad and him, and it worked for about 12 hours and sounded amazing! Then I was testing it with a cd (not cranked up loud or anything) in my driveway and the thermal light came on. I couldn't figure out the problem, everything is wired correctly. Fuses are all good, nothing was blown. So he bought me another one (used, yet again) off of eBay a couple months later and I got it recently. I installed in into my car and guess what, I have the EXACT same problem. The thermal light comes on and the amp will not power the sub. I don't know how much more descriptive I can be... The rest of the setup I'm using is a Sony XPlod CDX-R5715 (which I'm not ENTIRELY sure where to connect the RCA's/REM to, but I'm pretty confident I got it set up right) and a Sony XPlod 1200W Sub. I drive a 1990 Honda CRX, in which the ground cable for the amp is connected to a screw behind one of the smaller access panels in the hatch. I know the B+ is connected to the battery correctly. If pictures of this set-up are needed to better assist me, please let me know everything you need pics of and I will get them posted on here as soon as I can. Thanks in advance for any help!
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Re: Thermal light won't turn off...
Check your speaker load ESPECILLY if you are bridging your speakers. Sounds like you may have a very low ohms load and it is frying your amps. Do this BEFORE you hook up another amp. If you are using dual voice coil speakers it is very easy to get the impedence (ohms) wrong in your hook up. If unbridged then a 4 ohm load per channel is good. If you are bridged, then an 8 ohm load is best. When you combine speakers, that is when most people get in trouble. Good luck.
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You possible have a blown thermal cutout or element, or you have lost 220 volts either at the wall outlet or the dryer. The dryer runs with 110 volts but need 220 to turn on element. The 1st thing is to reset the house circuit breaker for the dryer, even if it looks on, if that is ok then check where the cord attaches to the dryer if you burnt a 110 lead the element won;t turn on. If all that is good the element and cutout can be tested for continuity
Had a similar situation after running the dryer for multiple loads. I checked the wiring schematic and found the overload thermal switch location on the exhaust duct. Using my $4 volt amp meter I checked and found the circuit open (the switch open circuit). Removed the switch, went to the appliance parts store and bought a replacement for an exorbinant $9. Installed the switch and it has worked for the past couple of years.
Now that was my solution. You will need to check the wiring diagram for the problem. I would not buy a new dryer just yet until looking for a simple switch or contact that isn't working.
Your friend has damaged his amp. The power light coming on means that the amp's power indicator LED is at least working. That light is only there to tell you that the amp is receiving power on it's 12 volt rails, not that it's necessarily using the power in any way other than warming up the amp's internal circuitry. When you say the amp gets power, I'm not clear on whether you mean the amp works in that fashion, or there's just a red LED glowing but nothing else happens. The amp needs to be repaired, and I would suggest to him to not apply power to it again until it is checked by a professional. The power supply has probably been damaged, and it's possible, depending on how the amp was mounted, that it was searching for ground through the amp's chassis if it was screwed into metal at its mounting location. All that seems certain as of now is that the LED works, but nothing else, unfortunately.
My esp light, all wheel drive light, traction light and abs lights have come on & won't go off. Tried everything I could think of. Tires are new, brakes are a little over 2 years old. Recently tires rotated. Maintenance done regularly . Whats wrong?
Doesn't sound like anything is wrong. If the thermal light is on before you have the ground hooked up then the amp is probably getting a small amount of electrical ground from the shielding on the RCAs or its mounting to the chassis of the vehicle allowing the amp to "barely turn on" (not enough ground). I can imagine this would make the amp think something is wrong (ie: thermal light) . May I suggest that you do not try to turn any amplifier on without ALL appropriate wires connected correctly.