The metal strip holding in the rubber door seal has come away - any suggestions for strong adhesive
Plus, the door hinge has dislodged itself from the mounting point on the door. Any suggestions as to how to access the hing?
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Remove the defective gasket from the refrigerator. The removal method may differ depending on the properties or materials that hold the gasket in place on your refrigerator.
Examine the gasket on your refrigerator to determine how it is held in place. The gasket may have adhesive strips, screws, or clips that fasten it to the refrigerator door panel.
Use the appropriate tools or methods to remove the defective gasket. For example, if the gasket is held in place by screws, use a screwdriver to remove the screws. If adhesive strips are in place, use a putty knife to pry the gasket away from the refrigerator door panel.
Pull the gasket away from the door panel one side at a time. This will allow you to verify that all fastening components have been completely removed, preventing pieces of the gasket from breaking off and being left on the door panel otherwise.
You should level your door first This is probably the problem. There should be a cosmetic plastic cover over your top hinge remove it by prying it off then there should be 3 10mm or 5/16 screws that hold the door hinge on loosen them slightly and move the door to level it may help to have someone help you hold the door but normally the magnetic strip in the door seal will hold it. When its level across the top retighten the screws. If I need to clarify something just let me know good luck
Test the seal by dragging a strip of paper through it with door closed. Probably that left hinge isn't holding door close enough which was probably the original cause. As seal dries out a bit then will leak.
At this point I would investigate the hinge possibility AND if possible a DIY fix. It may be loose mounting screws or take a little shim to hold the left corner tighter. I would not waste money for a service call.
You probably might need to release the door balance springs accessable under the toe kick area while working on the door. Possibly a hinge is bent.
You might do as they do in the auto industry when a door doesn't fit... basically put forces on it to bend it a bit. In your case it would be to distribute the load and support the door when horizontal about 6 inches out from the left hinge and then bend the end of the door down to bend the hinge mounts slightly..
Then check the seal clearance with the strip of paper as you do with a refigerator seal by cloosing on a strip of paper and dragging the strip to see if it is gripped.
Not likely that you have a hinge problem, but it can happen, especially if water has been dribbling down the back side of the front panel from the dispenser area, getting on the hinge, and causing it to bind up. Replacing the hinge is a pain because the screws are put in with thread lock, requiring heating or even drilling in some cases. If you have water dripping down the front of the machine from the door, the most common reason is that there is some lint or hair on the bottom side of the glass door, preventing a complete seal to the gray rubber gasket. Generally, just cleaning off the bottom of the glass door will fix it. If that does not do it, you can try moving the spring clamp (which holds the front of the gray tub seal) from the bottom (6 O'clock position) to the hinge area (9 O'clock position) Sometimes, the leak is caused because someone pushed the washer into place by placing their hands just below the door and actually deformed the metal front panel inward, preventing a seal between the door glass and the gray tub seal. If that is the case, it may be corrected by removing the spring retaining clamp, taking the front of the gray tub seal off, pulling outward a bit on the metal panel at the bottom of the door openings, and replacing the seal and retaining band again.
Replace a door gasket on a refrigerator: The first thing to do when changing a door gasket is to check and see if you have the proper part before taking the old gasket off. Hold the new gasket up to the fridge door to make sure the gasket is the same size as the old one. Next step is to remove the wrinkles in the gasket caused by folding for shipping. Instructions with the gaskets say to soak the gasket in hot water. Another way is to use a hair dryer to heat the gasket and remove the wrinkles. Be careful not to burn the gasket with the hair dryer. Almost all gaskets in use today are magnetic. I am placing instructions here for the most common one. They have strips of magnetized material inside the gasket material to adhere to the cabinet when the door is closed. Therefore there is sometimes no up or down on the gasket. Some fridge's have magnets on only 3 sides and the side without a magnet is the hinge side gasket. But to be safe, check this before installing. You will certainly want to check for this on older refrigerators that have magnetic door latches. Some of these have no magnets on the latch side of the gasket. There are about three different ways of attaching gaskets. All will be addressed on this page. Remove the food from the shelves on the door. Loosen the screws that hold the metal strips that keep gasket in place on the top half of the door. Back the screws out about 1/4 inch. The gasket has a lip on it that seats in a groove under the top part of the metal strip. Pull the old gasket off. Work the groove on back side of the new gasket under the cutout in the metal strips that holds it on the door liner. Straighten and get good install before tightening screws. Run screws back up against the metal holding strip snugly, not fully tight. Go to the bottom and do the bottom half. By doing the top half first and tightening, then doing the bottom half, you will minimize any warping of the door. If there is warping of the door, we have not yet fully tightened the screws. so you can realign the door easily and then tighten the screws. Check the alignment of the door and be sure the gasket is sealing properly before fully tightening the screws. If the door is warped, (see picture) simply warp it back to a sealing position, then tighten the screws. There are instances where the gasket is too tight on the hinge side, and you may have to shim the door hinges out from the cabinet to keep the gasket from scrubbing when closing. .also use a little petroleum jelly on the gasket on the hinge side will allow the gasket to "settle" better. The hinge side must slide along the cabinet edge while the other 3 sides just close up against the cabinet. The jelly will allow the gasket to rub smoothly and also prevent squeaking noises. Maintenance of the gasket is important also. It should be cleaned on a regular basis. Clean the gasket and the mating cabinet surface with warm soapy water, rinse clean and dry it good. Putting a little baby powder on the sides (except the hinge side because we put the jelly there) will prevent the gasket from sticking and tearing. The heaters in the refrigerator used to keep moisture from forming on the cabinet attracts airborne materials and make the gasket sealing surfaces sticky. The powder will help stop this. Probably 75% of the fridge's made a few years ago use this edge under the metal track....some American made fridge's use the U shaped metal strip and the gasket pushes into the metal strip, (see a picture) the screws that hold this metal strip do not have to be removed or loosened. A lot of fridge's also use the metal strips with out the edge. Some Maytag's and Woods come to mind. The screws go through the metal strip and the gasket as well. The screws have to be removed completely to replace the gasket. Gasket sheet to assist you in replacing a common door gasket.
Freezer door pops open when I shut the fresh food door: This happens because the refrigerators of today are air tight, the fresh food door pushes the air into the cabinet as it closes and the air has no place to go but up the air vent into the freezer and "pops" open the freezer door. First thing is make sure the freezer door is capable of closing properly and is not rubbing or catching anywhere. I sometimes add a washer or 2 to the center hinge under the freezer door so it doesn't rub anything. Put a little Vaseline ( or food grade silicone lubricant ) on the hinge side of the seal. I then raise the front of the refrigerator so that the front of the refrigerator is a little higher than the back of the refrigerator. Never level a fridge with a level. Once you have the door closing properly and front slightly higher than the back...let the fresh food door close from 90 degrees on it's own and the freezer door may "pop" open a little but will close again on it's own...and stay closed once all is set up properly. We see this more often now and have no trouble with the door staying open again after setting up the refrigerator properly.
Let me know if this helps, Thanks, Sea Breeze
Your question is: It appears that the black rubber-like adhesive that is (was) between the glass panel and the small brackets (flanges) has let go. You don't need the metal brackets; you need the black adhesive to reapply the glass panel to the brackets. Can you help identify what the black adhesive is so that we can order it?
Any good adhesive will work. If you're never going to remove the glass panel then use liquiod nails allowing 24 hrs for drying time. If you might want to remove at a later date then any adhesive that remains plyable will work.
Feel free contact me again! Please give me a rating here at fixya.com before you sign off Thank you, Harvey your Master Plumber