Canon PowerShot S90 Digital Camera Logo

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Doug Baxendell Posted on Sep 23, 2012
Answered by a Fixya Expert

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Will not focus at a distance

The camera will not focus on anything more than a few feet away, which isn't real noticeable at wider angles, but at longer lens lengths (105) everything is fuzzy.

1 Answer

flashman4

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  • Expert 76 Answers
  • Posted on Oct 25, 2013
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Is the camera perhaps set in macro or manual focus mode? I've made that same mistake myself. If it is in macro mode then you will see (somewhere on the display) a small icon of a flower. If it is in manual focus mode then you'll see an MF icon.
Hope this helps

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Anonymous

  • 153 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 09, 2008

SOURCE: autofcous and manual focus do not work

excuse me if this is a dumb question but you wouldn't believe the things people do...., but in manual mode are you actually manually trying to move the lens? as manual mode means just that you take hold of the lens and turn it. If it wont turn it sounds like the lens is jammed and needs returning/repairing.

if taking hold of the lens and turning it works for manual mode, take the lens off and clean the gold contacts on both the camera and the lens with a pencil erasor this may bring the auto focus back to life, switch back to auto and try again, if not its most likely the lens but take the body to a canon store and try another lens just to double check the body is ok

drop me a line if i can be of further assistance

best of luck

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Anonymous

  • 22 Answers
  • Posted on Jun 16, 2008

SOURCE: Image reduced by dark edges

An adapter tube has to flare out at the end or it will cut the corners off at the wide angle setting. Telephoto should be ok though.

Anonymous

  • 1197 Answers
  • Posted on Aug 19, 2009

SOURCE: lens stays open, won't retract when camera turned off

If your camera is still under warranty, the best thing you can do is to take it to the nearest official Canon repair shop and Canon should fix it for free.

If your camera is out of warranty, or if Canon refuses to repair it for free (happens sometimes if for example they suspect the camera has not been treated properly) you can try some of the methods listed here to repair it yourself. These simple methods have helped a lot of people fix their cameras.

Before trying any of the suggestions, make sure your Canon has fresh batteries and it is in recording mode.

1) Remove the batteries from the camera, wait for a couple of minutes, then put them back in and turn the camera on.

2) Try compressed air. With a fine tip blow off gun and dry compressed air (20 lbs) set the tip between the lens turret and the camera body and turn on the air while moving the tip around the lens. It should remove all dust and sand. Turn the camera on and it should function fine.

3) Another method is to tap the padded USB cover part on a hard surface, for example, a desk. It sounds so simple, but very often in works.

4) Try forcing the camera lens:

Turn off the camera. Place it on the back with the lens facing up and take a look at the spacing between the lens and the lens housing. If you notice that the gap is not even all the way around the lens, the problem should be easy to fix. This type of a problem usually occurs if the camera was dropped while the lens was extended.

Simply - VERY GENTLY - press down the lens on the side where the gap is the biggest. You should hear a "click" as it pops back into place. Try powering the camera back on.

If the lens doesn't extend at all or it extends, and then retracts again, do the following. Turn the camera off. Take the camera in one hand and with the other gently take one part of the lens and gently move it round in a circular movement. Do so with both sections of the lens. You will hear a "click" as it pops back in place. Power the camera on.

Another version of this fix would be to pull and twist on the largest ring of the lens while turning the camera on. Listen for a "click". If at first the focus seems to be off, turn the camera on and off and take lots of pictures, close ups and distance. Focus should slowly start improving.

5) If that doesn't work, there is an online guide for dismantling Canon cameras and fixing the E18 error. (NOTE: Try this only if your camera is no longer under warranty!) It is a great guide with pictures and it can be found here.

regards iversh
a very helpful rating is apreciated for answering ur query.....

Anonymous

  • 3 Answers
  • Posted on Apr 04, 2010

SOURCE: I had the E18 error--lens wouldn't retract and

Focus problems are quite common after a lens error, it sounds like you still have an issue with that lens unit. If you need help, there's a great site taht just specializes in the powershot problems, nothing else at all. Try going to www.camerasandparts.com and you'll see the fix for this for your SD890 camera. I hope that helps, that site is amazing for the powershots and that's where a lot of people go for help with these. Good luck with it.

Anonymous

  • 1177 Answers
  • Posted on Nov 29, 2010

SOURCE: I slightly dropped my Canon

The only suggestion I have (that might not be a camera fault) is to make sure that you have not left the camera in Macro mode. This is a special extreme close-up mode offered by some cameras, and it does not allow autofocus on objects at normal distances. The icon for Macro mode is a little flower. On my Canon, this is selected on the left hand edge of the ring around the FUNC. button.

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tip

Controlling Depth of Field

A photographed object will only appear sharp in an area a specific distance from the camera. The human eye and brain still accept some areas of the image as acceptably sharp if they lie near the plane of focus and already show a small degree of blur. This zone, which is still in acceptably sharp focus, is called depth of field.

You'd typically want a wide depth of field when shooting landscapes, so as to have everything from the flower in the foreground to the mountains on the horizon in focus. You'd typically want a narrow depth of field for such subjects as portraits and flowers, blurring the background to avoid distractions.

How large this depth of field is depends on the distance to the subject, the aperture, and the focal length of the lens. Whether you're shooting film or digital makes no difference.

If the plane of focus lies further away from the camera, the depth of field is wider than if the camera focuses on an object close by.

Small apertures (large f/numbers) result in a wider depth of field.

Short focal length lenses (wide angle) have a wider depth of field than long focal length lenses (telephoto).

The depth of field is determined by the actual focal length of the lens, not the "35-mm equivalent" often used in the camera specifications. Because most compact cameras have sensors much smaller than SLRs, they have much shorter lenses, giving wider depth of field. This is great for landscapes, not so great for portraits.

To get a narrow depth of field, set the aperture as large as you can (smaller f/numbers), move in close to the subject, and zoom in. If your camera doesn't give you direct control over the aperture, try using the Portrait mode. And yes, the last two items above, moving in close and zooming in, are in opposition, You'll have to decide on the best balance for your picture.

To get a wide depth of field, set the aperture as small as you can (larger f/numbers), move away from the subject, and zoom out. If your camera doesn't give you direct control over the aperture, try using the Landscape mode.

Before going on vacation or shooting your child's wedding, experiment with these factors. Shoot things in your backyard or at a park, trying for both narrow and deep depth of field, then look at the pictures on your computer.
on Jun 23, 2011 • Cameras
tip

Explaining Camera Focus

Camera: Focus We've seen that a real image is formed by light moving through a convex lens. The nature of this real image varies depending on how the light travels through the lens. This light path depends on two major factors:
  • The angle of the light beam's entry into the lens
  • The structure of the lens
The angle of light entry changes when you move the object closer or farther away from the lens. You can see this in the diagram below. The light beams from the pencil point enter the lens at a sharper angle when the pencil is closer to the lens and a more obtuse angle when the pencil is farther away. But overall, the lens only bends the light beam to a certain total degree, no matter how it enters. Consequently, light beams that enter at a sharper angle will exit at a more obtuse angle, and vice versa. The total "bending angle" at any particular point on the lens remains constant. camera-diagram3.gif
As you can see, light beams from a closer point converge farther away from the lens than light beams from a point that's farther away. In other words, the real image of a closer object forms farther away from the lens than the real image from a more distant object. You can observe this phenomenon with a simple experiment. Light a candle in the dark, and hold a magnifying glass between it and the wall. You will see an upside down image of the candle on the wall. If the real image of the candle does not fall directly on the wall, it will appear somewhat blurry. The light beams from a particular point don't quite converge at this point. To focus the image, move the magnifying glass closer or farther away from the candle. camera-diagram2.gif
This is what you're doing when you turn the lens of a camera to focus it -- you're moving it closer or farther away from the film surface. As you move the lens, you can line up the focused real image of an object so it falls directly on the film surface. You now know that at any one point, a lens bends light beams to a certain total degree, no matter the light beam's angle of entry. This total "bending angle" is determined by the structure of the lens.




courtesy of HowStuffWorks.com
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Close-ups of jewellery

Are you handholding the camera? For macro photography you almost have to have the camera on a tripod or other stable support.

Is everything blurry? That probably indicates camera motion since I assume the jewelry isn't moving. If part of the picture is sharp, probably in the center, then it's a depth of field issue. The camera focuses a certain distance away, and anything not at that distance (closer or farther away) tends to blur. Unfortunately there's not much you can do to control depth of field with a point&shoot camera. See http://www.fixya.com/support/r9564373-controlling_depth_field.
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Make sure you're standing about 5-10 feet away from the sensor, and make sure it's angled at you.

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Usually auto focus take few seconds to focus on object depending on distance and lighting. That might be the problem ?
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It could be the software on your computer which is digialling zooming the image.  Check the program you are using to make sure it is zoomed out.
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