Car subs can NOT be connected to 220v. Not directly anyway. You will have to get an amp that can run on 220v & then connect it to this sub. Good luck finding a home audio amp that will run the sub though it's really hard. If you look at home theater setups you will find that all the subs have their own built in amps that are really hard to get a hold of seperately.
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Blown circuit. The question is; was it the power supply that blew out or was it the amp? check for fuses and see if they are ok. If they are not, replace them. IF they are then you are going to have to get new amp and or power supply.
I have the same problem with my Cambridge Soundworks CSW250. Also one of the speakers doesn't work all the time. I'm sure it's a loose connection on the circuit board. When I tap the subwoofer near the connections, the popping noise changes (gets worse, better, other speaker works,etc.).I tried taking the subwoofer apart, but the area near the connections is sealed with glue, so I cannot access it. I hate it because when it works,it sounds so good. Anyone know how to get just the circuit board and back panel?
Since this unit dose not come with power adaptor. It has direct plug in in to the port behind the sub-woofer unit and other end to the wall outlet. Is there any way to convert the power supply from UK to US (220v to 110v). For example Desktop PCs have a switch behind every desktop unit to change power from 110v to 220v or vise versa. Anyone has any idea how to make this happen in Bose Companion 3 system. I bought it from UK and now moved to US and I want it to work in US. othervise use waltage adapter to use it
Most likely what got burnt is the bridge rectifier in the power supply section of the electronic circuit. This usually takes the shape of either a single 4-legged IC, or a group of 4 rectifying diodes connected in a bridge configuration. If you disassemble the unit to which the power cord is attached & trace the circuit starting from the terminals of the power chord, you can easily identify it. You will need to replace the 4-legged IC or the 4 rectifying diodes. You will also need to replace the fuse, since it is usually likely that it gets burnt if the unit is attached to 220V instead of 110V.