We are now on our own to correct this problem if we don't want to pay hundreds more dollars to Sear's with no guarantee of repair.
Do a close inspection before running out to buy either a new control panel, or a new digital display. I'd have been out $80 - $178 if I had done so. I had a similar problem. See the link below follow how I troubleshot the issue. I got advice on how to measure voltage coming from the control board down by the compressor, and sussed out that the wire running through the door is shot (as per the other guy's comment here below). I ended up fiddling around with the wiring and connecting the digital display right to the control panel so that the temperature would at least get moderated. It was dropping past -22F (-30C). The unhelpful advice I got over there was to replace a $130 door, because what is likely a $3 wire running through it, is shot.
http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/questions/320235-kenmore-253-model-970-frost-free-freezer-control-panel
I have one out in the yard that is doing the very same thing. Works good but the door display is out. I looked underneath and all of the wires seem to be connected. The main control board is on the bottom as well. The battery is also new. You must have a broken wire between that control and the main board below. I imagine it has something to do the the connector that goes through the door.
If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61
SOURCE: Kenmore Upright Freezer Model 253-9280810
is it possible the door has not been closed at some point?
If so they can build up with ice in the evaporator which the defrost system cannot handle....Try a manual defrost.
Depending on where the unit is installed high ambient temperature can drop the internal temp enough to set the alarm off though they will still freeze sufficiently
SOURCE: I have a 7 year old Kenmore Upright
After you taken the back panel off and see a lot of ice forming on the coil before you use your hairdryer you should locate the timer and turn the center of the timer manually into defrost cycle. If you can see or hear the ice melting then your problem is the timer defective. Change the timer and that is all. But if it doesn't do anything then you will need a little bit more on electrical knowledge to deal with the rest on defrost temperature control and the element itself. Hope this help, God Bless.
SOURCE: My upright freezer won't self defrost. Frost builds up right awa
The evaporator coil behind the cover on the back
wall inside the freezer will ice up under normal conditions. Every 8 to 10
hours for around 20 minutes the defrost timer (or in most newer models the electronic
adaptive defrost control) will turn the defrost heater on to
melt the built up ice. There is a defrost thermostat which prevents the heater from
overheating the freezer by breaking the heater circuit when the temp reaches
close to 32 degrees F. The entire cooling system shuts off during the defrost
cycle and starts back when the timer advances through the cycle.
If this ice is not melted it will continue to
build up until the air can’t flow over the coil to circulate the cold air
through the freezer and into the fridge. The temperature change in the fridge
is usually noticed first followed by the freezer.
If the defrost thermostat is bad it can prevent the heater from
coming on OR it won’t turn the heater off when it gets too warm. It is clamped
to the evaporator coil at the top to sense the temp. If it appears to be
misshapen it is bad.
With an ohm meter it should show continuity when
cold and none when warm.
You can also bypass the thermostat to see if the
heater comes on then. If it does then you know the thermostat is bad and needs
replaced.
The defrost heater is
located on the evaporator. It is in a tube which is at the bottom and can also
go up the sides of the evaporator. On some types you can see a burnt spot if
it’s bad. With an ohm meter it should show continuity from end to end when
disconnected from the wiring in the freezer. You can also test the wiring for
voltage when it’s in the defrost mode.
If
you have a defrost
timer you
can test it. It can be located under the fridge behind the kick panel on the
front. Some are in the fridge with the controls at the top. You can turn the defrost timer till it clicks and everything shuts
down. The heater should now come on. If it does, replace the timer because that
means the timer is not running. If it
doesn't, check the heater and defrost thermostat. Turn the timer again till
everything starts back up to end the defrost cycle.
If you have an adaptive defrost control instead of a timer,
replace it if the heater and thermostat test good. It is located in the fridge
with the controls in some models and on the back in others.
If you need help finding your model number see
here> http://www.appliancepartspros.com/modelnumber_locator.aspx
To locate your timer, motherboard, control or adaptive
defrost control , enter your model number and search for the part or post back
on Fixya.
http://www.searspartsdirect.com/partsdirect/index.action?psid=26129238&sid=PSx20071217x00001a
SOURCE: my kenmore 9 upright freezer feels warm on the
Hi,
This is normal. The condenser coils on freezers are typically located in the walls.
The refrigerator in your kitchen has condenser coils that are hot either under the frig or on the back. Freezers do not need as much heat transfer on the coils with the air so they put them in the walls, it is called a warm wall condenser. It may even feel hot to the touch if you happen to feel it near the end of a cooling cycle. It will be the warmest close to the compressor and cool off at it makes it around the cabinet down to the other side.
SOURCE: Ok we have a kenmore upright freezer Model #
i had the same problem and it turned out to be the sensor, a $15 part. it pretty much controls everything related to defrosting.
Hi Susan Abboud - Modern freezers have increased storage capacity and keep more even temperature that may require the compressors to run longer but use less energy. Was the unit disconnected previously for any reason? If so, freezer requires a minimum of 4 hours to cold down completely. Confirm that the temperature control is not set too cold and that the door is not being open frequently. A dirty, cracked, worn or poorly fitted door gasket can allow warm air to enter the unit causing it to have to run longer to remove the warm air. Leaks in the door seal will cause freezer to run longer in order to maintain desired temperature. Cleaned the gasket, if it is too damage then it will need to be replace. You can check and see if the door seal is bad by, placing a dollar between the gasket and cabinet. Check to see if the door is being blocked by anything stopping it from closing properly. If nothing is stopping the door then replace gasket. Keep in mind that there should also be at least 4-6 in of air space on all sides of the unit. If freezer is built in or has items stored on top that cover the unit, the can cause long run times, high temperature in the freezer and premature failure to the unit. Do not block the toe grille on the lower front of the unit. Sufficient air circulation is essential for the properly operation of your freezer, about 3 inches around the unit.
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Door has not been left ajar. 9v battery is not dead. The door board is
I'm having exactly the same problem, but mine occurred after a move. All the wires below look good, so I'm thinking about getting inside that door to see what's what back there. have you done this yet by any chance? Please keep this updated and I'll check back, I promise to do the same with the exact same issue I posted about over here:http://www.managemylife.com/mmh/question...
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