Question about Sony MV-900SDS Car DVD Player

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The screws that hold the screen to the player came loose and the wiring harness was destroyed I need to find a new one

It has 4 different size plugs and is actually 4 different sets of wires bundled together

Posted by Anonymous on

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5 Related Answers

Anonymous

  • 10594 Answers

SOURCE: part needed

Please ask Sony Accessories at 800 488-7669
Still need help, let me know please.

Posted on Oct 09, 2008

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Michial Gueffroy

  • 1140 Answers

SOURCE: sony mdr v150 wiring plug adaptor 4 wires green,

The green wires go to the left channel (Plug tip). The red wires go to the right channel (plug ring 2 band from tip) and the brass wires go to the ground (sleeve plug base).

Posted on May 09, 2009

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Anonymous

  • 578 Answers

SOURCE: I want to replace a Sony CDX-C5005 radio/cd with Sony CDX-M10.

you can try but the connection may be different

Posted on Jun 26, 2009

blueextc3221

blueextc3221

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: i cut the factory audio wiring harness and then re wired a new on

please double check your connections.

Constant 12V+ Orange Switched 12V+ Yellow Ground Black Illumination Gray Dimmer Brown Antenna Right Window Trim Front Speakers 6 1/2" Doors Left Front (+) Tan Left Front (-) Gray Right Front (+) Light Green Right Front (-) Dark Green Rear Speakers 4" x 6" Side Pillar Left Rear (+) Brown Left Rear (-) Yellow Right Rear (+) Dark Blue Right Rear (-) Light Blue
Thanks for using FixYa - a FixYa rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Jul 03, 2009

blueextc3221

blueextc3221

  • 15935 Answers

SOURCE: need a pic of the wiring harness or a diagram of

CLICK HERE for the user manual.

Thanks for using FixYa - a VERY HELPFUL rating is appreciated for answering your FREE question.

Posted on Jul 16, 2009

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Hi Caicoj, first unplug the unit. In the back of the refrigerator you will find a metal plate with about 8 screws. Remove the screws to access the control board. Each plug on the control board is different in size and you should be able to remove all of them by just pulling on it. Remove the old board and install the new one. Reconnect the wire harness making sure they are the right size harness for the plug and reinstall the metal cover then you are done. Plug the unit back in and enjoy. Good luck.
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Toshiba 57H83 rear projction tv

Heres a text i found that should be usefull...

Originally Posted by WaltA Do you have any instructions on how you got each piece off? I mean, where the clips or screws were located, and which held on which piece? ,

Walt, good to hear from you again. You helped me out quite a bit getting familiar with this set when i first purchased it. If i remember correctly you have the 46HX83.
Should be the same deal then. Speaker panel just pulls off. I started at one side on top and get that clip loose 1st, then the bottom one on the same side, then the other side top and bottom and then the middle. This exposes the silver fascia behind the speaker grill. I believe there were 8 screws total holding this on, 2 above and below each speaker. These are torx(sp?) head screws, i don't know what # they are, but fairly small. All screws by the way, that go into wood on this set are the same size torx screw. All other screws that go into plastic are the same size screw only with a 1/4" hex head and phillips. After the bottom silver fascia is removed you can get to the screws holding the panels between the screen and the speaker section. The panel that has the drop down door with controls and the power button has 2 or 3 screws holding it in. They are all along the bottom of the panel. It has wires running into it obviously and not alot of slack. However, it doesn't weigh very much so i just rested it against the set. I did not disconnect these wires as you can see in the pics. The other panel is just for looks. Same deal here, 3 screws at the bottom(there are alot more mounting holes on all parts mentioned so far but not all of them had screws in them, so yours may have more or less screws to remove). NOW THIS IS IMPORTANT, there is a small piece of MDF type board right behind these 2 panels, it's about 1" tall and the same thickness by about 18" or so long. When removing the screws holding in these 2 panels that board is very loose (it actually comes out, and i took it out until i was done)and could fall out on its own, so i would remove it and set it aside. Now all that's left is removing the screws holding the screen in place. All the silver fascia around the screen and what's available to see from the front below the screen is all one piece. I removed the ones in front 1st, then the sides from behind the screen then the top ones from behind the screen. THIS IS IMPORTANT AS WELL. There is a wiring harness attached to the screen from the set. My harness is visible in the pics. The wires are red and the harness(plastic) is white. This needs to be disconnected to be able to get the screen off the set to store while you are working on your set. I was able to disconnect mine before removing the screen however there was a type of wire loom or holder that had to be opened to get the loose end out of the way. Would be a good idea to have another set of hands around for this part(i used my wife, yes, it was that simple).
We each grabbed an end of the screen and carried it over to a spot on the floor where i had laid a clean sheet down.Well, that's it for the screen removal, goes back together in the reverse order i just explained of course. And keep in mind that this is a do at your own risk project. I can't be held responsible for anyone's set but my own,but in saying that, it really wasnt that hard to do.
I did not restack my screens or remove the glare screen as i have total light control in this room. I only wiped the back of the screen off with a microfiber cloth, same type i use on the shiny front side. I'll post more about the focusing and cleaning either today or tomorrow, i've got a few things to get done here, hope this helps you guys out . smile.gif

edit: In looking at my pictures again,you can see that MDF mentioned right below the 2 cpanels between the screen and speaker section. It actually comes loose when you remove the screws on the silver fascia at bottom of screen. Sorry about that.

and here's the link to the page it came from, with pics of the cleaning of the lenses and such:

_______http://www.avsforum.com/avs-vb/showthread.php?t=425650&page=60___________
tip

How to install Radio in Honda Accord

Things You'll Need:

* Stereo
* Wiring harness
* Dash kit
* Phillips screwdriver
* Heat shrink
* Lighter
* Wire strippers
* Wire caps


In order to install A Radio first follow steps of Removing the Factory Radio


#1
Open the center console, and you'll see two phillips screws at the bottom. Unscrew both of them.

#2
Remove the drink tray, and unscrew three more phillips screws. The center console is now loose enough to move.

#3
Pull the center console back a few inches to expose two more screws under the plastic part of the gear shift. Remove these screws.

#4
Pull the ashtray out of the dash, and you'll see one more phillips screw. Remove this screw and pull off the plastic panel around the factory stereo.

#5
Locate the metal tray under the factory pocket (below the stereo), and pull it out of the dash. There will be two phillips screws holding it in place; remove those, and then pull the stereo out of the dash. You'll need to unplug the wiring harness that is plugged into the back of the radio.


Now Install The New Stereo

#1
Assemble the dash kit, as shown in the instructions. Put it into the dash where you just took the stereo out. There will be a rectangular opening, and a pocket underneath. The opening is where the radio will go.

#2
Secure the dash kit by screwing in the one screw in the ash tray, and the two in the opening of the panel.

#3
Insert the metal cage that came with the stereo into the opening above the pocket. Ensure that the fit is flush with the pocket. Using a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs upward, which holds the metal cage in place.

#4
Start wiring the stereo harness to the wiring harness. Match wires color by color until all of the wires are paired. For example, if you find a purple wire coming out of the aftermarket wiring harness, plug it into a purple wire from the factory harness. You aren't touching any of the wires in your dash on this step, you are simply wiring the new stereo to the wiring harness.

To connect these wires you'll want to place a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires, strip the ends, twist both ends together, and then pull the heat shrink over the exposed metal parts of the two wires. Heat the heat shrink with a lighter until it shrinks and forms a tight bond between the two wires. When done correctly, you won't be able to pull the wires apart.

#5
Plug the aftermarket harness into the factory plug, and insert the radio back into the dash. If you find wires that don't have a match, be sure to cap them so that the ends aren't exposed. Exposed wires are what cause shorts and electrical problems.

#6
Work in reverse order to put the dash back together. The radio won't be secure in the dash until the dash is put back together.

Hope this helps

Thanks
tip

Replacing colorwheel on an InFocus X1A, X2, X3, and SP4805

to replace the colorwheel:

remove the 4 brass and 4 silver screws from the bottom and the 2 silver screws from the back. through the top vent on the back panel and using a flat head screwdriver, unclip the 3 clips holding the back panel on. once removed, unplug the 2 wire harnesses. remove the top and front panel. now unplug the large wire harness and remove all the brass screws on the 2 power supply boards (also the screw for the ground wire). there is a black clip in the middle of the larger power board. remove the boards. now remove the brass screws holding the metal plate on. once removed, unplug the flat ribbon cable (for the colorwheel). now facing the front end, remove the lamp and the 4 screws holding the lamp housing (with fans) on to the bottom case. remove the tiny black screw on the small circuit board and remove the board. now you can get to the colorwheel. there are 2 small black screws holding the bracket. pull the ribbon cable through from under the fan. replace with new colorwheel and reverse the instructions. the only difference, remove the front panel from the top by undoing the clips. good luck!
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Turn signals stopped working but were working yesterday. Any ideas?

More than likely the electronic turn signal flasher is defective.
Instructions
  1. Remove the Old Flasher Relay
    • Using your socket wrench, disconnect the negative cable from the car's battery terminal. The negative terminal and cable are identified on the top of the battery using the minus ("--") symbol. Once the cable is disconnected, wrap the metal end completely with the black electrical tape. Lay the cable down and make sure it's not touching any metal surfaces.
    • 2Open the driver side front door and kneel or position yourself so that you're able to see under the dashboard.

    • 3Locate the automotive flasher relay under the dashboard on the right-hand side. The flasher relay is about the same size as an ice cube. It will be held in place by one screw and will have a three-pronged wiring harness connected to it.
    • 4Remove the screw holding the flasher relay in place and slowly lower it from underneath the dashboard.
    • 5Hold the flasher relay in one hand, and with the other hand gently disconnect the wiring harness plug from the relay. Never separate the flasher relay by pulling the harness off by the wires, always hold the plastic harness plug itself.
    Install the New Flasher Relay
    • 6Inspect the new flasher relay to make sure it isn't damaged. Hold the new flasher relay and the old one side by side and compare them, ensuring that they are exactly the same.
    • 7Carefully plug the wiring harness connector into the new flasher relay. Make sure no other wires are intertwined as you raise the flasher and harness back into position under the dashboard.
    • 8Secure the flasher relay by returning its mounting screw.
    • 9Unwrap the negative battery cable's connector and reattach it to the car's battery terminal. Turn the power on or start your car and test out the new flasher relay to make sure it's working properly
1helpful
2answers

How do you replace the radio and insert a cd player?

Hi, pull the trim plate off the dash around the radio. The trim may go all around the instrument panel. With the trim plate off, you can see the factory radio screws. Take the screws out, pull the radio out and remove the connectors, including the antenna wire.
You will need an adapter to fit the aftermarket radio snugly into the dash. They sell these wherever they sell aftermarket radios. I recommend you also buy the cable adapter. If you don't, at least buy the antenna adapter of you will no be able to plug your antenna into the new CD player.
Follow the instructions on putting the adapter together--it's made for a lot of different cars. You need it to screw into your dash where the screws came out.
If you buy the wire adapter, follow the directions that come with it. I recommend you solder the wires, but you can use those crimp connectors if you don't have soldering equipment.
If you don't buy the adapter cable, use the factory wire colors below to match up the aftermarket wires to your factory wires. Wrap any solder connections with electrical tape and carefully plug everything back in, including the antenna adapter and antenna cable. With the adapter plate attached to the new player, carefully push the wiring aside to get the player into the slot and then screw it in. check the system for proper operation and then replace the trim panel.
Enjoy your CDs, and let me know if you have any questions.

2002 Chevrolet Silverado C1500 Radio Wiring Instructions
Car Radio Battery Constant 12v+ Wire: Orange
Car Radio Accessory Switched 12v+ Wire: Yellow
Car Radio Ground Wire: Black
Car Radio Illumination Wire: Gray
Car Stereo Dimmer Wire: Brown
Car Stereo Antenna Trigger Wire: N/A
Car Stereo Amp Trigger Wire: Pink
Car Stereo Amplifier Location: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Front Speakers Location: N/A
Left Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Tan
Left Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Gray
Right Front Speaker Positive Wire (+): Light Green
Right Front Speaker Negative Wire (-): Dark Green
Car Audio Rear Speakers Size: N/A
Car Audio Rear Speakers Location: N/A
Left Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Brown
Left Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Yellow
Right Rear Speaker Positive Wire (+): Dark Blue
Right Rear Speaker Negative Wire (-): Light Blue
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1answer

Im trying to install one of radios into my 1996 honda accord but how?

In order to install A Radio first follow steps of Removing the Factory Radio

#1
Open the center console, and you'll see two phillips screws at the bottom. Unscrew both of them.

#2
Remove the drink tray, and unscrew three more phillips screws. The center console is now loose enough to move.

#3
Pull the center console back a few inches to expose two more screws under the plastic part of the gear shift. Remove these screws.

#4
Pull the ashtray out of the dash, and you'll see one more phillips screw. Remove this screw and pull off the plastic panel around the factory stereo.

#5
Locate the metal tray under the factory pocket (below the stereo), and pull it out of the dash. There will be two phillips screws holding it in place; remove those, and then pull the stereo out of the dash. You'll need to unplug the wiring harness that is plugged into the back of the radio.


Now Install The New Stereo

#1
Assemble the dash kit, as shown in the instructions. Put it into the dash where you just took the stereo out. There will be a rectangular opening, and a pocket underneath. The opening is where the radio will go.

#2
Secure the dash kit by screwing in the one screw in the ash tray, and the two in the opening of the panel.

#3
Insert the metal cage that came with the stereo into the opening above the pocket. Ensure that the fit is flush with the pocket. Using a screwdriver, bend the metal tabs upward, which holds the metal cage in place.

#4
Start wiring the stereo harness to the wiring harness. Match wires color by color until all of the wires are paired. For example, if you find a purple wire coming out of the aftermarket wiring harness, plug it into a purple wire from the factory harness. You aren't touching any of the wires in your dash on this step, you are simply wiring the new stereo to the wiring harness.

To connect these wires you'll want to place a piece of heat shrink over one of the wires, strip the ends, twist both ends together, and then pull the heat shrink over the exposed metal parts of the two wires. Heat the heat shrink with a lighter until it shrinks and forms a tight bond between the two wires. When done correctly, you won't be able to pull the wires apart.

#5
Plug the aftermarket harness into the factory plug, and insert the radio back into the dash. If you find wires that don't have a match, be sure to cap them so that the ends aren't exposed. Exposed wires are what cause shorts and electrical problems.

#6
Work in reverse order to put the dash back together. The radio won't be secure in the dash until the dash is put back together.

Hope this helps

Thanks
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I need to know how to install a cd player in my 1997 jeep wrangler sport.

My suggestion would be to buy a wiring harness and a dash mounting kit. After that unscrew or pull out the console/dash part thats around your factory deck. Then unscrew the bolts/screws holding the factory one in place. Remove it. Plug the wiring harness into the factory wire plug. Pull harness wires through the mounting kit. Attach the corresponding colored wires from the harness to your new deck. Slide your deck into the mounting kit and secure it in place. Most decks have little prongs that you can pry up to **** up against the mounting kit so it wont slide out without pushing those down (makes it more secure and harder to steal). Place deck with mounting kit into area factory deck was. Put the screws/bolts back into place tightly. Place console/dash part back on. You will need the mounting kit (99% of new decks are smaller than the factory). Wiring harness is optional but recommended.
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Infocus x1a fan replacement

to remove the fan: remove the 8 screws from the bottom of the projector (4 silver, 4 inset and brass) and the 2 screws from the back. pull the back from the bottom, but use a small flat-head screwdriver to release the tabs seen through the topmost vent of the back. once off, unplug the speaker wires on the right and the cable harness on the left. pull the top off while pulling the front off from the bottom. remove the wire harnesses from the power supply board and the ground wire from the power input board. take the 4 screws off of the power input board and the 4 or 5 screws from the power supply board (and 1 center clip) and remove. take out the 4 or 5 screws from the metal shield and remove shield. now you can unplug the fan that need replacing and access the 2 screws holding the fan in. remove fan and replace with a like fan. since the fan speed is not monitored, if you can find one that's the same size, power, and plug size, use it. otherwise, contact an infocus service center and ask them for infocus part # 526-0192-00. reverse instructions to put it back together. but you must remove the front from the top case, put the top on first, plug the speaker and left harness in, then put the back and front on. wasn't that fun?
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1answer

Cd player in toyota paseo

Very simple. DIN size head units fit without any adapters (assuming your car has the DIN size factory radio with pocket underneath {I have '93 Paseo and this was the setup of mine, though Crutchfield.com shows option of factory stereo with pocket and without [guessing there was a double DIN size option]}). All you need is a wiring harness. I've seen these anywhere from $5 - $20. This will connect to the wires on the harness for your new radio, then instead of cutting any of the factory wiring, you simply plug the factory harness into this new socket.

The trim ring around the radio/climate control/ashtray area is held in with clips. It just pops out (may have to use a thin screw driver to get your fingers under one of the edges to start). Four screws hold the metal frame where the head unit, climate control, and ashtray are. Take those out and pull the metal frame out a bit, then disconnect the wires of the climate control, power lead to lighter, and stereo harness and antenna. Two screws per side hold the stereo in to the metal frame. Take those out, slide out the factory radio and put in your new head unit (You will not use the metal cage or any other mounting brackets the head unit may come with). The holes on the metal frame should line up with mounting holes on the side of your new radio.

Not to endorse one vendor over another, but Crutchfield.com supplies instruction sheets and any needed install accessories free with purchase of new head unit. Their prices are often slightly higher than you can find elsewhere (comparable to retail stores, usually more than online stores), but you get the wiring harness and instruction sheets for your vehicle. At the very least, you can use their site to see what fits your vehicle (Note: Many other stores do this as well.)
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