Allows selection of program, but will not start wash

Quite a simple fix!. The door sensor inside the housing has moved, so when the door closes the connector on the door isn't touching the micro-switch inside.
Remove the batteries first and then undo the screws on the back of the unit and pull it slowly apart. Do not remove the screw that is in the centre of the drum on the back. This doesn't need removing!
Once pulled apart undo the 4 screws that hold the drum housing in place. You will then see the micro-switch which will probably need adjusting up into its original position. Once back into position, I found using strong tape the best, test the door by closing it. If the sensor is in the correct position you will hear the micro-switch click on and off.
Put all the screws back, put the batteries back in and away you go! With the door closed the drum should start spinning around again when you hit the Wash buttons.

You will need the screws to hold them in and unfortunatly to do them you have to split the 2 drums apart unless you can see where the screws mount on the new baffles, but usually they screw in from the outer side of the inner drum. A lot of work for such a small part.

Hello.

Loud noises coming from a Washing Machines are most often caused by loose objects inside the unit or by a broken dryer belt. The Washing Machines belt allows the dryer's motor to run smoothly. Continuous wear and dry conditions may cause the belt to dry out, eventually Washing Machines cracking and then snapping. This will cause a loud noise within the unit. Repair and fix the dryer belt of a Washing Machines to get rid of loud noises.

Instructions And Things You'll Needed to solve the problem.

Screwdriver ,Replacement Washing Machines belt

1 Stop the Washing Machines and look inside the dryer's drum for any loose objects such as coins, pens or anything else that may have been in a pocket of clothing. Remove the object and restart the dyer to determine if the noise has stopped.
2 Unplug the Washing Machines from the wall outlet to disconnect all power to the unit.

3 Remove the lint trap from the lint compartment on the top of the dryer.

4 Remove the screws that hold the top panel in place. Pull the panel off to access the
dryer belt.
5 Tilt the dryer forward and lift the dryer drum to remove the belt. Check the Washing Machines belt. A belt that is worn, cracked, split or broken will cause loud noises.

6 Slide the old belt off of the drum and pull it out to remove it. Take note on how it is positioned over the drum.
7 Install the new belt. Lean the front panel away from the Washing Machines and slip the new belt over the drum. Locate the position of the old belt and slip the new belt following the old belt's position ensuring the grooved side of the belt faces down. Push the idler pulley towards the motor to allow you to slip and loop the belt around the motor pulley.
8 Place the top panel on the Washing Machines and screw it in place.
9 Open the Washing Machines door and use your hand to rotate the drum counterclockwise a few turns to ensure the belt is secured.
10 Plug the Washing Machines into the wall unit and begin use .

this just takes a bit of mucle and time.

remove rear pulley and then refit screw (without washer) into shaft. screw the whole way in. then using a lump hammer knock shaft out. may take a good bit of hammerin.

knock bearing out then and also unclog the weep hole in bearing housing.

grease the bearing housing and press in new bearing and seal.

if old shaft damaged ( which prob is if hard to knock out) you will need to replace it.

screws holding shaft to drum usually impossible to undo so drill them out using a 8mm bullet bit.

fit new shaft, put some bearing grease on the bearing seal and re-assemble the drum

Make sure you have plenty of well-lit space to work as well as lay out the parts removed. Remove the cabinet top by removing several screws from the rear, slide it back somewhat, then lift up. Remove the back panel by removing screws along the top rear, then lift up. Pull loose the rubber boot (it's glued to the cabinet front opening as well as to the outer drum face) CAREFULLY from the front panel opening. After uncoupling the drum motor, wiring, hoses, and suspension components, lift out the entire outer drum assembly. The case splits after removing a handful of bolts from the split circumference. Remove the large drum pulley and any snap-rings holding the large shaft in place. The inner drum should pull out of the rear case, but leave the bearings and seal in the case. The inner bearing and seal are prone to failure over time. The official fix is to replace the rear case (with new seal and bearings) for some 300 to 400 dollars. We chose to replace the bearing and seal from a local bearing supply house for about $16. It's still working well after over 10 years. Assemble in reverse order. Use 3M automotive trim cement for gluing the rubber boot back to the cabinet front. Hope this helps!

Hello,

Have you tried turning the drum with belt removed to see if sound is from drum or motor.If you cant get at belt easy thru. top ( make sure power is off) then you will have to split the casing which will give you a great view of all the moving parts to see if any loose parts.It may be that the bearings have gone so badly that it is clunking as it turns.Normal bearing failure noise is a rumbling.
Remove 2 screws at rear underside of top lid and remove.On top middle either side by springs remove the 4 screws holding back panel,down below at rear there is normally 2 or 3 screws on corners of panel,now go to side of panel bottom middle by seam and remove round white plastic covers put small screwdriver in hole and pull out there is a screw behind each (8mm small socket).Now by water inlet valves prise out white plastic housing with valves still inside now put screw driver in spli on side panel either side and work it back you will have to hold down drain hose to clear panel,once off you can inspect for any damage or loose parts,check drum pulley is not loose or worn,check motor also concrete balance weights one on back top of drum casing and one at front around door seal,sometimes these come loose.To refit casing it is a reverse of removal.
Hopefully this will be helpful.

Good Luck.

well either pull it out with pliers from inside or you will have to split the drum cover.
You will have to remove motor hoses etc. and take out the whole drum housing.
Split it and pull wire out. If you go to this length please clean heating ellement too thna.

Not difficult just a lot of time..

Good luck

You need to work out where the water is coming from, either the front, back left or right hand side to give you an idea what/where to look.
Front - Open the door and check the door seal (usually grey rubber round the door) look for splits, chaffing, damage.

Rear - check the connection to the pump, there will be a (Black) rubber hose from the drum housing about 12-18"long, check for splits, connection etc.
Check and remove the pump itself, Isolate the electricity, to remove - disconnect the outlet hose from below the sink or upstand, lower the outlet hose to the floor and syphon off the water into a bowl from the machine, there will be some even if the machine appears empty. disconnect the plug on the pump (2 wires), disconnect the hoses from the pump (2 off) and check inside the hoses, bra wires, socks etc. look inside the pump for foreign objects, the pump can be wasily split open via 3 screws normally, refit in reverse order.

Top - remove the top cover usually 2 screws at back or side and will slide slightly to remove, check hoses to drawer and the hose below drawer to top of the drum housing, check the inlet solenoids at the back (where the water hoses connect).

hope this helps

To complete this repair correctly and to prevent problem re occuring within months you must change the inner drum spider at the same time as the bearing kit, otherwise you are wasting your time, to complete the repair if you have not done one before will take you aprox 1 to 3 hours depending on space available and practicle ability, here goes, remove lid and outer case from machine to do this remove bolts on lower back and two side bolts (under small white covers) remove bolts along top edges both sides on top of macnine, remove cabinet, remove motor, remove hoses, remove heater and thermostat wires, noting location for refitting, remove suspension leg pins and lift outer drum assembly complete fron lower frame, split two halves of outer drum by removing bolts around centre seem, split drum in two, remove drum pully, refit pully bolt and drift inner drum out having put nut back on drum spider thread to avoid flaring shaft, using hammer knock shaft through bearings, then using a chisel or similer object knock out bearings and seal, reverse process refitting new bearins and spider, make sure to replace centre outer drum seal, as these are prone tro leaking I suggest you also seal with a layer of clear silicon, and problems contact me again, not really a job for a novice. Good Luck you will need it. Regards Advisor

you will have to split the case u will find 6 8mm bolt under the lid remove the 2 rear looking from the front then down the sides u will see 2 round plastic covers remove them by putting a small screw driver in the centre of the lug there r another 8mm bolt in each side use a small screw driver to remove the mains and valve block now the cabinet will split u will need a 10mm socket to remove the heater and a claw hammer to get the heater out of its housing use the claw by caerfully placeing it under the terminal 1side @ a time and the heater will come out u will be able to get the bra wire out from there u may need a set of long nose plyers good luck and make sure u have unplugged the machine b4 u start any dissmanteling