DU850SWPB4 MODEL, MOTOR WORKS FINE, AND WATER IS FILLING, BUT WILL NOT SPIN INSIDE OR DRAIN, DO I HAVE A FAULTY PUMP OR CHECK VALVE, OR COULD IT BE CLOGGED?

Symptom Check
Click on underlined items for further information Washer does not work and makes no noise

• Check that the washer is plugged in securely
• Check the circuit breaker or fuse box
• Test the outlet for current
• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Test the water level switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch
• Test the water inlet valve
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the motor

Washer does not work but it does make noise

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the filter screens
• Test for overheating
• Inspect the water pump
• Test the water inlet valve
• Test the motor

No water is entering the wash tub
- or no hot water
- or no cold water

• Check that the water supply valves are turned on
• Inspect the water supply hoses for kinks
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water level switch
• Test the water temperature switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the water inlet valve

The water fills the wash tub too slowly

• Check that the water valves are turned on full
• Check the water pressure at the tap
• Check the filter screens
• Test the water inlet valve

The tub does not fill with enough water

• Test the water level switch
• Check that the drain hose is positioned roughly as high as the top of the inner tub

The water overflows the wash tub

• Test the timer control
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the air tube for damage
• Test the water inlet valve

Water drains out during the wash or rinse cycle

• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar
• Test the timer control

Wrong temperature of water is used

• Water supply hoses may be reversed
• Hot or cold water supply valve may be turned off
• Water supply hose may be kinked
• Check water inlet valve

Water drains out while it is filling

• Check the drain hose, it should be at least as high as the top of the wash tub, about 38 inches.
• The drain hose must sit loosely in the house drain. Do not seal the air gap around the drain hose or a siphon will occur.
• Check the drain control lever
• Test the drain control coils
• Check the cam bar

Water drips into the wash tub when the washer is off

• Replace the water inlet valve

Water does not drain out of the wash tub

• Inspect the drain hose for kinks
• Test the timer control
• Test the lid switch (some models)
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect the motor coupler

Water is leaking onto the ground

• Inspect the water supply connections
• Inspect the drain hose
• Inspect the water pump
• Inspect outer tub for cracks or corrosion
• Inspect the tub seal
• Inspect the tub bearing

Agitator does not move

• Test the lid switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the pump coupling
• Test the water level switch

Agitator movement is weak or moves in only one direction

• Inspect the agitator
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission
• Inspect the pump coupling

Drum does not spin

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Clothes are too wet after spin cycle This may be a spin problem or a drain problem
Drain:

• Make sure the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for a partial blockage
• Inspect the water pump

Spin:

• Test the lid switch
• Test the timer control
• Test the centrifugal switch
• Test the water level switch
• Inspect the motor coupler
• Inspect the drive belt (belt drive only)
• Inspect under the washer for soot (clutch)
• Test the motor
• Inspect the pulley
• Test the transmission

Cycle does not advance

• If the washing machine fills with water and begins agitating, but the timer does not advance, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance while the washer is in a spin cycle, the timer probably needs to be replaced
• If the timer does not advance during the rinse cycle, check whether water has filled the tub, if not, it is likely cold water related. Check the cold water supply valve, check the supply hose for kinks, check the filter screen and check the water inlet valve

Burning or electrical smell

• Unplug the washer
• Locate the source of the odor then read the instructions in the related section

Foul or stale odor coming from washer or clothes

• Check that the drain line is clear
• Check the drain hose for kinks or blockages
• Check pump for blockages
• Check for build up of soap in the outer tub
• Check for article of clothing stuck in the outer tub

Noisy or vibrates too much

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump for a blockage
• Inspect the coupling
• Inspect the transmission
• Adjust the drive belt tension
• Check the motor bearings
• Check the drum brakes

Goes out of balance too often

• General tips
• Balance the load
• Level the machine
• Inspect the water pump

Clothing is damaged

• Inspect agitator for cracks or rough spots
• Inspect for rust spots

the tranmission is out causing the pump to drain all the time

Alarm
code Description of fault User
code Effect
E11 Problems with water fill in wash phase E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.2
E12 Problems with water fill in drying E10 Cycle PAUSED 8.3
E21 Problems with water drain in wash phase E20 Cycle PAUSED 8.4
E22 Problems with water drain during drying or drying
condenser blocked E20 Heating phase skipped 8.5
E31 Analogic (electronic) pressure switch circuit faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.6
E32 Incorrect calibration of analogic (electronic) pressure
switch --- Cycle PAUSED 8.7
E33
Incongruency between level of analogic (electronic)
pressure switch and level of anti-boiling pressure
switch 1
--- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.8
E34 Incongruency between level of electronic pressure
switch and level of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.9
E35 Water level too high --- Cycle blocked with door
closed and water drain 8.10
E36 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 1 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E37 "Sensing" circuit of anti-boiling pressure switch 2 faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.11
E38 Pressure chamber blocked --- Heating phase skipped 8.12
E41 Door open E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.13-14
E42 Problems with door closure E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.15-16
E43 TRIAC which powers the door interlock faulty E40 Cycle PAUSED 8.17-18
E44 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock faulty --- Cycle blocked 8.19
E45 "Sensing" circuit of door delay interlock triac faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.19
E51 TRIAC which powers the motor short-circuited --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.20
E52 No signal from tachometric generator --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.21-22
E53 "Sensing" circuit of motor TRIAC faulty --- Cycle blocked
with door closed 8.23
E54 Relays (motor) contacts faulty --- Cycle blocked with door
closed (after 5 attempts) 8.23
E61 Insufficient heating during washing --- Heating phase skipped 8.24
E62 Overheating during washing --- Drain, end of cycle 8.25
E63 Insufficient heating during drying Heating phase skipped 8.26
E64 Overheating during drying --- Heating phase skipped 8.27
E66 Power relay to heating element faulty --- Drain, end of cycle 8.28
E71 NTC wash sensor faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.29
E72 NTC sensor on drying condenser faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.30
E73 NTC sensor on drying duct faulty --- Heating phase skipped 8.31
E84 "Sensing" circuit on circulation pump triac faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.32
E85 Circulation pump faulty --- Drain, end of cycle
(door open) 8.33
E91 Communications error between main PCB and user
interface --- --- 8.34
E93 Configuration error E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
E94 Incorrect configuration of washing cycle E90 Cycle blocked 8.34
EF1 Drain filter blocked LED-EF0 --- 8.35
EF2 Excessive detergent LED-EF0 --- 8.35
Regards David Marsh

Drain Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain pump might be defective or might have some debris in it. This is a common problem.


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Circulation Pump

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the circulation pump sound, it's likely that the circulation pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the circulation pump will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Drain Impeller

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, the drain impeller might be broken, or there might be debris in the pump. Generally, to gain access to the pump the top of the pump housing will have to be removed.


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Pump and Motor Assembly

If the dishwasher is loud the motor bearings, drain impeller or wash impeller might have worn out. All three of these components are part of the pump and motor assembly. It may be possible to replace one of the impellers, but the motor bearings cannot be repaired. In that case the pump and motor assembly will need to be replaced.


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Wash Impeller

The wash impeller is a small, plastic blade. The motor spins the impeller forcing water through the spray arms to clean the dishes. If one or more blades has broken off of the impeller the dishwasher is loud. The impeller can also scrape against the pump housing if it is damaged, warped or bent.


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Circulation and Drain Pump Motor

If the dishwasher is loud during operation, and the noise is a continuous drone similar in speed to the motor sound, it's likely that the circulation and drain pump motor bearings have failed. Once this happens the motor will have to be replaced, the bearings are not repairable.


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Water Inlet Valve

The water inlet valve is an electrically controlled water valve. When it is new, the water inlet valve is very quiet. Over time, the diaphragm inside the valve deteriorates and deforms. This deformation interacts with the water rushing in and can cause a loud vibration, buzzing, squealing or other noises. If the dishwasher is loud during the filling cycle, replacing the water inlet valve may solve the problem.

God bless you

First of all you mustt drain the water that is trapped within the drum. So remove the drain pump/ valve and allow the water to flow out - make sure that you have an arrangement to collect water when the drain Hose is removed.
Now the drain pump/valve must be checked clean if there is dirt clogging. Also test the valve for proper functioning. Also check the inlet valve and filter which is on line with the water inlet which can be traced easily. Check the motor, drive , door switch and finally the control board. If after switching on there is no action , inlet filling or spining when water is full, the program controller must be faulty.

There are actually several possible causes of your problem. I will briefly describe each in hopes that you can isolate the problem and will then know how to proceed.

If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:

Drain line/air gap
Pump
Drain valve and/or solenoid
Belt
Motor
Timer
Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support.

Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.

Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.

Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced.

Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.

Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.

Make sure you get water to the dishwasher. Check to see if the water shut-off valve (located under the sink) is open. If you get water to the dishwasher, but there is still no water inside during the fill cycle, the problem might be with a faulty water valve (located at the bottom of the dishwasher, behind the kick panel, on either side), in which case replace the water valve.

Concerning the drainage issue(left over water at the bottom)


1. Air gap / Drain hoses
If there is an air gap (located in the sink, near the faucet), check to see if it is clogged. Unscrew the top cap and see if there is anything blocking inside. Note: If there is no air gap installed, the dishwasher might not drain properly.

If the drain hose is clogged, the dishwasher would not drain. If there is an air gap installed, it is very common that a hose going from the air gap into the garbage disposer is clogged. Remove and clean the hose. Make sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher.

Note: If you recently had a garbage disposer installed, it is common to overlook removing the drain plug.

2. Broken belt
Some dishwasher models use a belt to drive the pump. Replace the belt if found broken.

Note: Sometimes the belt would just come off the pump. Even though it might not be broken, it is recommended that you replace the belt, because it is probably too stretched out.

3. Pump
Some models have two impellers inside the pump - one, wash impeller, takes care of the wash cycles, the other, drain impeller, drains the water out. If the drain impeller is broken (broken blades, shaft), the dishwasher would not drain. Replace any broken pump components.

4. Drain solenoid
Some models (for example most GE dishwashers) use a drain solenoid to drain water out. Sometimes the solenoid gets stuck, preventing the water from draining out. Try to free up the solenoid. If unsuccessful, you might have to replace the pump assembly.

5. Motor
If the motor is stuck, it is sometimes possible to free it up by manually spinning the motor.

Replace the motor if defective.

6. Timer
Replace if defective (note: uncommon problem).

There's no water entering the machine If there's no water entering your dishwasher, check these:

Water-inlet valve
Float switch
Water-inlet valve The water-inlet valve lets water enter the machine. If this valve is defective, you need to completely replace it. It's usually located behind the lower access panel on the left or right side. It's the device with the main water line (usually copper) from the house, a rubber tube to the dishwasher, and two wires attached to it.

Float switch The float switch is a small electrical switch that's located right below the dishwasher "floor." Above the switch, on the inside of the dishwasher, is a plastic cylinder that floats up as water fills the dishwasher. If this switch is defective, or if the plastic float gets caught or trapped in the raised position, the water can't enter the dishwasher. If the float switch is defective, you need to replace it.

The water doesn't drain from the machine If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:

Drain line/air gap
Pump
Drain valve and/or solenoid
Belt
Motor
Timer
Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support. 

Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.

Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water. 

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.

Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced. 

Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.

Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon.

Basic Washer Problems
No fill:
Bad water valve
kinked hoses
unpaid water bill faulty electronics. Overfill:
trash in water level switch tube
bad water valve
bad water level switch faulty electronics. Washes but don't spin:
bad lid switch
bad drive coupling or belt
bad motor faulty electronics Spins pumps but don't wash:
bad timer
bad motor
bad luck faulty electronics. Leaks:
bad hoses
bad pump
bad tub gasket faulty electronics. Fills washes but never advances:
bad lid switch
locked up pump
bad motor
bad timer faulty electronics. Goes through complete cycle but clothes soaking wet:
bad belt
bad pump
bad thrust bearing faulty electronics*. *electronics in appliances ****. My opinion.

If you need further help, reach me via phone at https://www.6ya.com/expert/dan_73bbd84fe1d95b61

If water is not draining, check first that the drain hose is not obstructed. Try also advancing manually the timer/[programmer.

If water is still not draining, it may be a faulty drain pump, aproblem with belt/motor , or a defective timer/control panel.
"
The water doesn't drain from the machine If the water doesn't drain from your dishwasher, check these:

Drain line/air gap
Pump
Drain valve and/or solenoid
Belt
Motor
Timer
Drain line/air gap A clog in the drain line or air gap (if there is one) is the usual reason that a dishwasher won't drain. Often the problem is at the point where the drain line attaches to the garbage disposer or household drain line. If you remove this line, you can clear any debris from the hose or hose connection. Be sure to reattach the hose before starting the dishwasher again.

Pump Your dishwasher pump ejects the water. The pump is usually mounted directly to the motor, then attached to the bottom of the dishwasher. You can reach the pump from inside the dishwasher, but first you need to remove the lower rack, the spray arm, and the spray arm support.

Look for an impeller--a round plastic fan blade-type of device that spins around. This is the wash impeller, which forces the water through the spray arm. Beneath the wash impeller is the drain impeller, which is similar in size and shape to the wash impeller. The drain impeller pushes the water toward the drain port. These components make up the pump. If any of the pump components are defective, you need to replace them.

Drain valve and/or solenoid Many dishwashers use a drain valve with an electric solenoid. When electricity flows to the solenoid, the valve opens and diverts the water to the drain. Sometimes the solenoid, or the diverting lever, sticks and prevents the dishwasher from draining or filling properly. Try to free up the solenoid to lubricate the lever. Otherwise, you may have to replace the solenoid or pump assembly. With these systems, the motor always rotates in one direction. When it's energized, the drain valve diverts the water.

Other dishwashers simply reverse the direction of the motor to drain the dishwasher. These units don't have a drain valve. Instead, there's a drain hose connected directly to the pump housing.

Belt One brand of dishwasher uses a belt to drive the pump. If this belt is broken or has fallen off, replace it.

Motor If the motor isn't turning or working, the unit won't drain. First check to be sure you have power to the dishwasher. If not, see the section "It doesn't work at all." If the motor hums but doesn't turn, it may need to be replaced.

Some dishwashers are susceptible to getting stuck if you don't run them regularly. If you haven't run the dishwasher for more than a week, you may need to manually spin the motor to free it up. If the motor is defective, you need to replace it. Dishwasher motors can't be serviced.

Timer Part of what the timer does is control the motor and drain valve. If the timer doesn't work properly, the water may not drain and you need to replace the timer. This problem is uncommon."

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