Oven, Broiler inopperable

You will need to replace the the burner and spark module kit. Here is the part to order.
Keep me posted.

I would say replace the control panel their are numerous web sites online try Searspartsdirect or E-replacement parts

Hi,

The ignitor is not working right and is going bad....
have the repair man replace the ignitor, or DIY....
Check out this tip about your problem...

Oven not Working or Oven not Heating

Oven Problems Replacing the Igniter


heatman101

Make sure your oven timer is not set for automatic cooking

you might try the following, although it is the instructions for an old model, it may be relevant;

"The actual self-cleaning process is initiated by a simple 5 step procedure: 1. Set the range clock to time of day. Note: on models not equipped with an automatic oven timer, the self-cleaning cycle is preprogrammed for a 21/2 hour cycle. Use Steps 3, 4 and 5 only. 2.Establish the length of cleaning time by:
A. Setting the start time. Press and turn the start dial of the automatic oven timer clockwise to the desired starting time. B. Set the stop time. Press and turn the stop dial of the automatic oven timer clockwise to the desired stop time. Max time is 3 hours miniumum 1/12 hours. 3. Set the oven selector dial on the control panel to "Clean" 4. Set the temperature control dial to "off". If you temperature control dial has a "Clean" position, then set the dial to "Clean" instead of "Off". 5. Remove oven racks, broiler pan and broiler grid from lower oven. Close and lock the oven door by moving the latch lever as far right as it will go - into the locked position. If the lever is accidently dislodged restore it to the locked position. Otherwise, the self-cleaning process will not take place. Shortly after the cleaning cycle has begun, the oven temperatur reaches a degree in excess of the normal broiling temperature. The red "Clean" light will come on and the clean cycle will start. In a few minutes the door lock lever, which you have placed in the locked position, will automatically be secured to prevent the oven door from beging opened during the cleaning cycle. This latch remains locked until the clean cycle is complete and the oven temperature reduces to normal baking and broiling temperaturs. NOTE: Prior to self cleaning cycle operation, the oven and surface lights must be turned offed. The upper oven can be used."

I found this here; http://www.appliance411.com/archive/21155_caloric_oven_lost_cleaning_manual.shtml

It won't bake or broilIf neither the bake nor the broiler heating elements heat, but the range burners still work, the clock may be set for a timed or self-cleaning cycle. Check to be sure the clock buttons and knobs are set properly. If your clock has a knob that says "push for man(ual)", push the knob in and try the baking and broiling elements again. If it still does not operate properly, you probably have a defect in the thermostat, selector switch, or common wiring.

If the oven does not have a separate bake/broil/etc. selector switch, the problem may be with the thermostat. But it's not easy to check the selector switch or thermostat for proper operation. If you suspect a problem in this area, call a qualified appliance repair technician.

• When the food you're baking is done on top but not on the bottom--or when baking just takes far too long to finish--the bake element may be burned out.


You may get fooled into thinking it's working, because the oven is hot inside. But many electric ovens use the broil element, too, during the preheat and bake cycles. So the food may be getting heated only by the broil element, which causes poor baking results.

If the bake element is burned out, replacing it should solve the problem. Otherwise, you need to further troubleshoot the oven's electrical system to locate the defective wire or component.


• When the temperature is consistent but too high or too low, it could be one of several different things. First check to see if the thermostat sensing bulb has come loose from its holder. It could be lying on the floor of the oven or resting on the heating element. This would cause the oven to not heat correctly.


If the thermostat bulb is not dislodged, it's likely that the thermostat or sensor is either mis-calibrated or defective.

Electronic ovens with a digital display use a sensor to monitor oven temperature. To solve temperature problems for these models, you may need to replace the sensor. On some digital-display models, you can calibrate the temperature using the key pad. See your operator's manual for details.

Ovens without a digital display often use a mechanical system for controlling temperature. On many of these units, you can remove the thermostat knob and adjust the knob itself to more accurately represent the actual setting of the thermostat.

If, when you remove the knob, there's a screw on the back of it with a small calibration plate, you can loosen the screw, adjust the plate, then tighten the screw again. If the knob isn't adjustable, and the oven temperature is off by more than 30 to 40 degrees, you need to replace the thermostat to solve the problem.

It won't broil Usually, when an oven won't broil, it's because the broiler element is burned out. The broiler element in an electric oven is the black, pencil-thick tube at the top of the oven. When the broiler is on, the element glows red. This element has an expected life-span of several years. It may last for only one; it may last for many more. When the element burns out, you need to replace it.

you know i am thinking more towards a bad temp probe.

I have a Frigidaire Model Number GLGF377ASF. The stovetop burners work just fine but the oven and broiler do not work.

Well on most electronic controlled ranges with the problem your describing alot of time it is the clock that needs replaced. And yes most ovens have 2 ignitors.

you ignitor is going out you will need to replace it the ignitor needs to draw a min of 3.2 amps in order to open the gas valve coil if short of this it will not open at thimes it may just have enough to open