SOURCE: motor bike wont rev above idle weth choke on
This to me sounds like you need a carb cleaning. If you have let the bike sit for an extended time the carberators maybe clogged or gummed up. This has to do with the new gas that is out there now. It is cheap and with the introduction of Ethanol alcohol now it is even worse on being stable for long periods of time. I have seen fuel go bad in as little as 3 weeks.. One quick check you can do is open you fuel tank and smell the fuel. IF it smells like varnish it is probably bad. You can drain the tank and add new fuel and that should solve your problem. Keep in mind, that the carbs need to be drained as well to get the old fuel out of there also. Make sure you have a battery charger going when you start crankin that puppy, because you will need lots of extra juice to get that baby to fire up. If it is starting now and runs on choke, that means your idle jets are clogged. Best repair is to remove carbs and clean idle jet. Unless it is fuel injected.
Let me know how that goes and we can proceed from this point. I am a certified mechanic from MMI as well as a HDTV GURU. Smiles. have a good one.
SOURCE: Drives great but at/when drops to idle it stalls
When you are on the bike and riding do you still have the choke out? And stop spraying starter fluid into the carbs..bad bad bad.... bikes start with out that stuff and if you need it then something is wrong.. your gonna mess something up doing that....let me know about the choke and we will go from [email protected]
SOURCE: Bike is sometimes hard to start.When bike stalls
There is a proper way to start the engine. Four controls are on your bike to assist in starting.
Don't kick, instead, push the kick lever downward. You will feel the back pressure as the piston is going upward on the compression stroke to the point the pressure is great enough that the kick lever "locks up". You are very close to TDC. NOW, pull in the de-compression lever. Push the kick lever a little bit more to get the piston past TDC. Now release the de-compression lever. Give the throttle a 1/4 turn then let it snap closed. A diaphragm in the carb gives a shot of gas when this is done. DO NOT do this multiple times because you will flood the engine. Leave the throttle closed when kicking. A flooded engine will often backfire. Now give a strong kick through the full sweep of the kick start lever. Quickly get your foot off the kick lever at the end of the kick to avoid any chance of "kickback" from the kick lever. This happens in the case of a misfire, aka > backfire. It can be very painful, and can even break a leg. I am serious about that. Repeat the process (but without the throttle priming), until the bike starts. A good battery, a clean spark plug, a clean carb and clean air filter will also aid in starting.
SOURCE: Keihin CVK-D36 carbs on a 20 yr old ZZR 600
It sounds like your bike has been sitting in storage for an extended period of time (a year or more) - and the carburetors are plugged up. If this is the case, they will need to be completely disassembled and cleaned out.
If it hasn't been sitting (and the carbs aren't plugged up) then check that all of the normal tune-up items have been performed, especially valve adjustment, oil and filters, spark plugs, etc. If this fails to produce positive results, perform a compression check on the engine. Each cylinder must be able to produce at least 140 psi of compression in order to run and idle properly.
SOURCE: Bike stalls out in neutral and wont start back up while riding
check that the side stand is returning to the foldfed position,, they are known to work lose and imobilise the starter mech
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