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It looks like a mini XLR connection at the belt pack end, so that's easy. The cable goes to a connector block which looks like it is held together with two screws. Again, that should be fairly straightforward.
The other side of the block is the cable that goes up to the head set and boom mic. This looks a little trickier for a novice just because the mic capsule is small; the cable runs through a narrow diameter tube, and the cable routing involves heatshrink.
At a guess I'd say that the foam windshield will come off. There'll be a grub screw holding the collar in place.
Personally, I'd use a meter on continuity setting, upen up the XLR and connectors block, and test the two signal lines (pins 2 and 3 in the XLR) for a break. Fingers crossed it is in that section. Then replace that cable.
If it is in the boom arm section, and you feel confident dealing with threading the cable and using heat shrink then have a go. If not, take it to a Tech to avoid the risk of wrecking a great mic.
Audio Technica and Sennheiser each have proprietary connectors for their mics. A lot of times the mics require Phantom power which is drawn from the battery of the pack.This is important as the mic will need to be wired correctly to function. The first thing you will need is the correct plug from the company. Check with Sennheiser customer Support for the correct part. If you aren't extremely good at soldering, do not attempt this. You can change the plug but the wires are extremely delicate and can short easily. Moreover because of the phantom power, the plug must be wired correctly for the mic to function, or you may end up damaging the mic by sending phantom power up the wrong line. I would advise having a music store or pro audio service that handles these products do the wiring for you. If you feel you are up to it, you can do it yourself, but be careful.
You have to wire the plug to eliminate the voltage sent by the sound card. I can't remember if it's the tip or the sleeve, so you'll have to verify with a volt meter. Use a 3 position plug to solder to the mic wires, just don't connect the wires of the mic to the one that has voltage on it
I'm not sure that this will help but try turning up the mic volume in the computer's sound mixer. Have you charged the BW900's batteries? Can you adjust the mic volume knob in the base unit? Review the base and headset button descriptions in the owners manual/instructions book. Make sure you have selected the BW900 headset and NOT an office phone headset. Also check the headset to make sure you have not selected the mic mute function from the "multi switch". You can also reset the unit back to the factory default settings by re-pairing the unit, again read the manual for instructions on how to reset the system. Just some thoughts......
You must put your headset in pairing mode, prior to trying to pair with a new phone. Press and hold any one of the volume buttons whilst opening the microphone boom. The indicator light should be flashing alternately in red and blue, thus indicating it is in pairing mode. Release the volume key. Only then, make your phone search for new devices. After a while, the VMX100 should appear on its screen. Select it and make it connect. If a pairing code (or PIN, or passkey) is requested, enter '0000' (four zeros). If the pairing process is successful, your headset should enter the stand-by mode (the indicator light flashes slowly in blue).
By the way, if your headset's user guide happens to be missing, feel free to download it from this location.
colors are on the bike side of the connector are spelled out in the shop manual, however they do not include what is used for the headset side of the connector. These are the three pin numbers on the connector that appear to be the ones for the microphone portion. Hope it helps. For the whole setup the passenger uses 5 pins and a tab; while the driver uses all 7 pins plus a tab. So, on a HD three wires will not correctly interface with the system.
pin 4 =BK = MIC Common
pin 2 = passenger gy/bk & Drain = MIC Shield
pin 2 = front y/bk & Drain = MIC Shield
pin 1 = red = MIC
Headset connection: Blue wire to Pin 2, White wire to Pin 1, Yellow wire to Pin 3. Connect Pins 1 & 2.
Microphone connection: Black wire to Pin 3. Red wire to Pin 2. Ground wire to Pin 1.
I am using a male/female 7-pin XLR connector assembly to black box. I am using two 3-pin XLR connectors, one for SM2 microphone function, one for SM2 headset function.