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Re: not reaching temp
Those buttons your talking about are calle hi-limits.they pop when the temp inside the booster goes above 215 degrees.does it happen every time after you reset them or just occasionally?the water temp going to the unit should not exceed 150 degrees.if the water is hard in your area the booster may be clogged and therefore causing your problem.how old is your unit?
On the machine that we have, there are two push button switches in line for the heater tank. One is on the front of the tank and the other is around the right side. I have always called them clicks-on's but.. they are red in color and need to be rested if ever they get to hot. Be sure to relise that they did infact pop for some resone. Did the tank for some resone run dry?
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either of these manufactures are good just install one with the manufactures recommended temperature rating,as the wrong temp range can change how the car will run.example gas mileage,running temperature,cooling fan operation etc.
The rinse temp only reaches 180 degrees for a couple of seconds towards the end of the cycle. This will sanitize all warewash and meets most health code regulations. The rinse water temp will drop rapidly as it is incorporated in to the machine and sprayed on the dishes.
no, no home d/w will ever sanitize dishes, to sannitize dishes the rinse water has to be @180 degrees or above , only 1 d/w had that capability which was the old kitchenaidmod. which hobart produced for them
what temp is it washing at. washing should not be the problem. This machine is designed to rinse at 180 degrees + to sanitize dishes. The machine could be converted to a chemical sanitize, it would use bleach in the rinse water instead of 180 degree water to sanitize.
Hopefully you took the suggestion to run the correct 50 amp 208-240 service to the unit.
Converting the unit to an LX30C has a couple of pitfalls. The LX30C is connected directly to the incoming water supply, which should run 120-140 degrees. By reprogramming the unit as an LX30C, the booster would be disabled, which would mean the incoming water would flow through the de-energized booster and be cooling off while it sits in there between cycles and when the unit is shut down.
The incoming fill plumbing (5/8" heater hose) would have to reconnected from the fill solenoid valve directly to the vacuum breaker on the rear of the unit to bypass the booster heater.
On the 208-240 volt LX18/30/40's, the pump motor, booster heater, and sump heater run on 208-240. To convert it to 120 volts you would have to replace the sump heater and reconfigure the motor wiring in the motor junction box.
By the time this is all done, you've downgraded a great machine, confused the next service guy, and have to deal with nasty chlorine and all of it's headaches.