I have had this amp installed for about 8 months working without a problem. Now all of a sudden it is blowing fuses as soon as I hook the power, Ground, and switch wire up Conneting no speakers.. it blows the inline 30a fuse. I have no clue what the problem could be, as I have never experienced this... I am taking it to a audio store today to have them test the amp.
For this to cause a problem with amplifiers there is something internally wrong with it. Most of the time the mosfets take a shit from the hot...cold....hot....cold atmosphere its put in by all of us audio people. If it still has warrenty that would be the easiest route to go. Send it in to them and have them fix it for FREE lol!! well sorta. Hope this helps you understand why you are blowing fuses.
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It's worth noting here that it's more about the physical size & shape of the Fuse thats needed to fit your Fan.
You don't have to use exactly a 5 amp @ 125v fuse.
Any fuse that Fits and is in the range of 5,6,7,8,10 Amp and even 230v is ok.
The fuse is like a piece of soft metal that will melt if too much current is being drawn by the device. The Amps & Volts only define approximately when the fuse link will melt (blow). But as the fan gets dirty and older the LOAD it draws might get slightly higher. Enough to cause the fuse to slowly melt. So a small to 6, 8, or 10 Amp should work just fine. A wiring short will still cause the 10 Amp fuse to blow thereby keeping things safe. The manufacturer uses a fuse that fits in the space he has allocated & allows the unit to run continuously without blowing on a slight load.
But it is only a safety device to protect the device from internal shorts.
It stops a shorted motor or shorted internal wiring from getting too hot and possibly causing a fire.
But a 20 or 30Amp fuse would still blow if it is shorted.
For example...If the 5 A fuse keeps blowing then you could try say an 8 or 10 Amp fuse. If that blows then their is definitely a problem with the circuit. Don't put anything larger than 10 Amp in.
It then needs to be looked at by a service technician.
The voltage rating on a household fuse isn't that critical.
It's actually the wattage it takes to melt the fuse link. It's based on the mathematics of Ohms Law (Watts =Volts x Amps)
But thats another story....
If the fuse blows on different trailers then it's all down to the vehicle. You either have incorrect wiring on the vehicle, a short OR the fuse is not of a high enough value to cope with the additional brake lights? You could try removing all the trailer bulbs EXCEPT the brake lights - e.g. if it's trying to power up the indicators too? That would stop the fuse blowing...... OR remove the brake bulbs from the vehicle & see if it operates the trailer without blowing...... Check the total wattage of ALL the brake lamps & see if the fuse is actually of a high enough rating? Be aware though that increasing the value of the fuse could cause damage elsewhere! As a rough guide a 25 watt bulb will pull around 2 amps at 12 volts - so 4 bulbs may pull up to 8 amps & clearly blow a 5 amp fuse! If in doubt take it to an auto electrician...... The wiring needs to be correctly protected!
A slow blow fuse is also known as an anti-surge fuse the idea being any sudden "spikes" in you mains electric when you switch on would blow a quick blow fuse. Anti surge fuses are designed to tolerate any sudden initial electric pulse.
Measure the DC voltage across the B+ and ground terminals as well as across remote and ground. If you have less than 11 volts when the amp tries to power up, the amp could be shutting down due to low voltage.
If the voltage remains near or above 12v, disconnect all speaker wires and signal cables from the amp. If it powers up, the wiring needs to be checked. If it still shuts down or blows the fuse when you apply remote voltage (turn the head unit on), the amp likely has blown output transistors.