Re: rocks in machine

If not an unbalanced load, then it is an unbalanced drum. Turn the drum by hand when it is empty and it should spin smoothly (not freely because it is attached to the motor so there will be resistance). Can you hear a knocking or grinding? Push and pull the drum in and out, again any knocking? With your hands at 3 and 9 o'clock push with one hand while pulling with the other and rock the drum back and forth. Try it with hands at 12 and 6. Does it feel loose or makes a knocking?
Grinding is usually a sign if the bearings going or gone and knocking may indicate a broken drum holder (sometimes called a spider)
If everything sounds and feels okay then it may just be the machine is not level or secure. Rock the machine and if it wobbles check the feet and adjust until no more rocking. The feet do bend or adjust themselves over time, even making some kind of impression on the floor that makes it settle to a different level.

If there is any form of grinding at all when the drum is turned than the rear bearings in the machine is going bad. This will only progress an get worse, then eventually start leaking and grinding and finally lock up.

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There is a tiny possibility that the motor has seized. To test this possibility, remove the top of the machine and take the drive belt off. If the drum now spins easily but you can't turn the motor spindle by hand then the motor has siezed, if the drum is still stiff but you can turn the spindle of the motor by hand then the drum is siezed. A replacenemt motor will probably set you back around £100 ($170) this may make the machine a write off. Worst still, and I'm sorry to say, far more likely is that the main bearings in the drum have broken down and siezed. The smell is from the motor buring out as it tries, and fails to turn the siezed drum (or siezed motor bearings).

Under normal circumstances, to test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed. Having said this, if your bearings have siezed, there may be no play in the drum because they are jammed solid.

If the bearings have siezed, then other symptoms that have been leading up to the failure will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum), but as I say, with siezed bearings, this may not be the case.

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

When you turn the stiff drum by hand, it may not only be stiff, but you may be aware of a grinding crunching noise that you can also feel transmitting through the drum as you turn it at the same time (the broken bearing catching up on smashed bits as you turn the drum)

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

If it is the main bearing (and I can't imagine any other cause other than the motor its self seizing) then this is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

Possible that the bearings have worn out or that the drum main spindle drive has gone faulty. Your observation to check is important.
Also it is important that you manually turn the drum after removing power to confirm.
Also check the suspension of the drum and the alignment.

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. If problem you describe is the main bearing on the drum being worn out, (allowing the inner drum to "flop about").

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is quite possibly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about", when this happend, garments can get trapped between the inner and outer drums, causing pulls in the material and stain marks as the material is rubbed hard against the rubber gasket.

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about ?£20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

I'm sorry to say that this is potentially very bad news. The problem you describe is almost certainly because the main bearing on the drum is worn out, allowing the inner drum to "flop about".

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.

The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. There should be ABSOLUTELY NO PLAY between the 2 drums, even the tiniest amount will mean the bearings have failed.

If the bearings are bad enough then other symptoms will typically include:

A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings and/or hitting the outer drum)

You will have become aware of the spin cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins.

The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open.

A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is a result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear.

This is NOT a job for the uninitiated DIY enthusiast as it will mean stripping the machine and removing the drum from the chassis, splitting it, removing pressed in bearings and then sourcing and re-fitting new bearings.

To be frank, the cost of a bearing set (if they are replaceable, and most are) will be about £20 ($30) or so. But it's a long and horrible job if you haven't done it before. I know professionals who claim they can do a bearing change in under an hour, I've done a few and it takes me about 2 hours by the time I've ripped the machine apart and reassembled it after the bearing swap. A local repairer will probably attend and swap out your defective drum for a refurbished one and then take yours away so he can refurbish it and put it back in his stock. Sadly, this will take the price up to the point where you need to question if the expense is worth it or do you get a new machine instead.

This is potentially very bad news I'm afraid. Beyond failed bearings, there are very few reasons for the drum to become tight.

To test your bearings, open the door of the machine and by putting a little lifting pressure on the top of the inner drum, attempt to rock the stainless steel inner drum up and down.
The outer drum is mounted on springs and shock absorbers, so it will rock about (and it should do this) but the inner drum should not move up and down in relation to the outer drum. Other symptoms of bearing failure will typically include:
A clonking noise as you lift and release the inner drum (this is the inner drum rattling on its bearings)
You will have become aware of the spine cycle becoming far noisier recently and possibly even a grinding crunching noise when the machine spins
The drum may feel like something is crunching or stopping you turning it when you spin it by hand with the door open
A leak from under the machine, which you will probably be able to trace to the back of the machine, coming from the centre of the drum. This is the result of the failing bearing allowing water to escape through the seal at the rear