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Sharp tv 59DS 05H

I have a subject tv that has lost its remote control input due to a burst of high power RF from a defective transmitter (I think) The result is that it will not respond to the remote and I want to over-ride the remote control to switch the set on and off on the wall switch. Anyone know how this might be done please? The circuit board is a mystrey as nothing seems to be marked in a way that I can find my way around the circuit for powering up. Thanks in advance gentlemen. Gwalia

Posted by Clive Collins on


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Jack Reasinger

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Unplug TV, take off the back. One each board there will be capacitors. the tops are flat unless one has blown then it is bubbled up. If you find one that is bad, copy the number and search the internet for a replacement. Unsolder and remove the old one ( there is a line drawn on the negative leg, mark the neg side on the motherboard so you can replace the new one the same way). Now solder the new one back onto the board. This worked for my TV, hope it helps

Posted on Jun 01, 2017


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Eduard P

  • 71 Answers

SOURCE: power

It's in protection mode. You got to do a hard reset. Call a tech.

Posted on Jan 26, 2008



  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: LC-65D64U Sharp Aquos

Call sharp back again and tell them you first want to register for aquos advantage program, which is free. By doing that your service will go much quicker with them. You then tell them that you want to get set up for service. They will have one of their authorized professionals come and fix your tv in a matter of days. If their tech cannot fix it, they will replace your tv free of charge as long as you are within your warranty.

Posted on Dec 12, 2008


  • 33 Answers

SOURCE: lost access to control SHARP TV

Unplug your unit and plug it back in after 2 minutes. When you plug it back in, try to use the remote to turn it on and see what happens. Good luck to you

Posted on Apr 17, 2009


  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Sharp TV/video toggle problem


Posted on Dec 24, 2009


Bud Martin

  • 11361 Answers

SOURCE: tv will not start after power surge

Voltage checking and caps inspection will be the first thing to do.
If you can post the pictures, that will help a lot. Look at the inverter board to see if you are getting 12~18vdc feeding it, also look for caps with leaking/bulging top.
See some pictures here:

Posted on Jun 29, 2010

Testimonial: "Example pictures quite helpful. I do some more visual checks and then post pictures of my power supply and ask for test locations. Thanks"

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Keyless Entry System Description and Operation (without Accessory 2 Way remote)

The keyless entry system is a vehicle entry device. The keyless entry system is used in conjunction with the body control module (BCM) to remotely activate certain vehicle features. Keyless entry will lock/unlock the doors/liftgate when a corresponding button on the keyless entry transmitter is pressed. This is accomplished by the transmitter sending a radio frequency to the remote control door lock receiver (RCDLR). The RCDLR interprets the signal and activates the requested function via a serial data message to the BCM. A low transmitter or vehicle battery or radio frequency (RF) interference from aftermarket devices, such as 2-way radios, power inverters, computers, etc., may cause a system malfunction. High RF traffic areas may also cause interference that could lead to a malfunction. Keyless entry allows you to operate the following components:
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I have a Sharp TV model LC-32SB24U. I cannot access the menu screen because I lost the remote control. Is there another way I can change channels without a remote?

The Sharp LC-32SB24U has menu, input, volume up/down and channel up/down buttons on the top of the TV. When you access the Menu using the buttons on the TV, the Input button is the same as the Enter key. The volume up/down buttons map to the left and right arrows. The channel up/down buttons remain up and down. The Menu button is the closest to the power button (on the right). The volume buttons are the ones on the left.

Make sure that the input is set to TV to change channels. Then you need to program the available channels, access the Menu and navigate to Setup (left/right arrows). Press Input to enter this sub-menu. Then use the Up/Down arrows to select CH Setup. Press Input again to enter. Now you can set the channel source and let the TV scan for channels that have a strong enough OTA signal or are unencrypted cable channels. These are the top two options in the Channel Setup menu. The details are available in the manual which is available here: . For OTA channels, you may need to check the signal strength under the Antenna Setup - Digital option in this Setup menu. OTA Digital signals will not be tuned in if the signal strength is low. It's an all-or-none tuning; amplifiers and external antennas may help. See for details of transmitters and the recommended antenna for your area. (Warning: damaged amplifiers can become filters and block the signal on some channels. Replace the amplifier if it is damaged.)

If you look to replace your original remote with a universal remote, you'll need one that was programmed more than 6 months after the TV was released. That may be 12/2005 based on the manual copyright date. Look for a remote that has a Menu and Input or Source button and check all of the codes to find one that matches all of the features on your original remote. Amazon has an OEM remote for the LC-32SB24U; also has a replacement remote available that has been programmed for the TV. (On, search for the LC32SB24U.)

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See the following website for transmitter :

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I came across this looking for a similar solution for my Samsung TV, and I found the solution on Apparently after you program the remote for your TV you have to hold mute and select again until it flashes twice then put in 960 to make the remote control TV input too. Note you're remote should be in TV mode while you do this. It seems silly that the DirectTV guy wouldn't do this when programming the remote.

Recorded play back is fuzzy

MOST LIKELY the RF out put signal is the same as a local tv chanel 1) try menue change rf output suggest rf 68! OR connect av leads (red white yellow)from the output of your vcr and connect the other end to an Av input eg AV1 on your TV use tv remote to select the AV input

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The remote codes listed for a Sharp TV are: 1006,1012,1026,1095,1111,1112,1171,1173
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Vizio E3D420VX-IR Sensor keeps going bad I replaced IR board after sophomoric mistake of replacing multiple remotes feel bad for erroneous product review now. Worked for a few hours, then... Stopped. All parts handled with ground strap upon my arm attached to ground prong on unplugged power cable. Unit was dusted with air duster prior to removal of factor/original board. Shopjimmy replacement fixed issue, so tv put back in place and tested again. Still worked. After turning TV on again next day... Unresponsive to TV remote nor the matched BD-Player remote with volume button for Vizio TVs. Ordered another part, and worked again until powering and repowering TV. Wondering if, on startup, the board is somehow getting a big jolt or shift in ground potential or ESD release frying the chip on-board after only a couple startups. I just bought and received in the mail another IR board along with part rebuild kit for the board containing just an ir sensor and either a tiny resistor or mlcc to replace on board. It's possible that it's simply the age of the TV and manufactured parts this is one of the 1st 3D HDTV's released that didn't require powered 3D glasses. However, prior to risking this 3rd and maybe 4th replacement, where else should I look for problems? I was thinking maybe clean connector pins with alcohol to ensure ground on board not getting ESD or stray voltage? I don't recall which board the wires from ir board go to I'm guessing the main and maybe power board?. Maybe a bad capacitor on the power board? I know this TV is notorious for the IR board going bad.... I guess the main questions here are: 1- what can cause the IR board to go bad in the 1st place, and what component actually does go bad? I would guess it's the components in the rebuild kit, so... Would a heftier resistor to get higher amplitude out of the sensor/transducer if in fact i de-solder the sensor and check for output in response to infrared stimuli and it seems to be working but whole board doesn't? 2- Has anyone ran into this before with an IR board popping over and over? Do they even get a power input? I thought it was just the IR transducer powering them similar to the voltage coming off a thermopile from the pilot light on HVAC equipment and the single chip on the board modified the sensor/transducer output signal to cause a given reaction based on remote input and main board processing... 3. Should I just try the new part as it was just happenstance and my luck really does go like that every day?

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