Question about GE Microwave Ovens
GE Monogram 2+ cu.ft. ZE2160SF Model # ZE2160SF Every time after I hit a few button on the display is turn blank and I cannot push any button for a while until it comes back and shows signs like I did a reset. When I open the door the light is on so I always have power, its just the keypad does not react to any button. Which part should I replace?
The owner's manual is here. Be sure you have the clock set correctly.
You can also try a hard reset by unplugging the oven for a couple of minutes, plugging it back in, resetting the clock, and trying again.
Posted on Sep 06, 2012
Generally the F9 code indicates a problem with the door latch (usually upper) or with the control board. You can do a Google search for my text file "doorsw.txt" to help you diagnose and repair door switch trouble. BUT - since it always stops at 53 seconds, that leads me to think you have trouble with the control unit (circuit board / controller assembly). Once you read and digest the info on door switches, please feel free to do an updated post and I'll be happy to help you further. It may be corrupted ROM in the control unit. But let us know what you find out. - online they call me "William E. Miller, AS-EET"
Posted on Oct 15, 2006
SOURCE: can't use the microwave
To lock or unlock the keypad, press and hold the CLEAR pad for 5 seconds. If this recurs, you may have a power line problem or trouble with your controller. If you suspect trouble and it's under warranty, don't hesitate to contatc GE via ge.com. If you don't have your mower's manual, you can download one at: http://www.geappliances.com/service_and_support/literature/
Posted on Nov 09, 2006
Is it possible that some spray cleaner accidentally got into the controls?
I always recommend that users spray the cleaner on a soft cloth (not on the keypad itself) then wipe the control panel off.
Also, I always recommend non-ammonia cleaners since ammonia can crack and damage plastic.
Otherwise, the spray can get into the controls and lock it up or make it act odd.
Another thing that can cause this is steam or grease / smoke getting in the controls. The best way to prevent this is to be sure your hood exhaust fan is on whenever you cook on the stove top.
If it does not dry out over time, it may need to be manually dried or blown out.
I've followed up to your by e-mail address to be sure I help you fully.
We're happy to help and we appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Mar 16, 2008
A microwave can be dead for many reasons.
It may be the fuse, which is usually located behind the grille or on the floor of the oven behind the control panel or between the door switches.
If the fuse is good, it may be an open thermostat or thermal cutout (TCO) / thermal fuse on or near the magnetron or on top of the cavity / body of the oven.
If it goes dead for a while during or after cooking then comes back on, the magnetron is probably overheating and causing the magnetron thermostat to open.
Then when it cools, it closes the circuit and allows power through again.
When checking TCOs or thermostats, if it has a hood fan thermostat, that should read open, as opposed to the others, which should read closed.
The TCOs you need to be concerned usually with have all black or white wires only. Please reply with photos of your interior if you have questions.
If it went dead almost immediately after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a shorted high-voltage capacitor.
If it went dead a few seconds after pressing the Start pad, that's usually a failing high-voltage transformer.
If it goes dead or blows the breaker (or GFI) when you plug it in or open or close the door, then there's likely a problem with a door switch or door switch mount.
If it's intermittent or random, it may be a bad connection, usually on the control board or a loose fuse holder, or even an intermittent fuse.
You should do a continuity test on the fuse while it's in the holder (with the microwave unplugged, of course) then turn the fuse by hand or take it out and put it back in, then test it again.
If you remove the fuse, then press the meter leads against the ends, it can allow internal contact to be made and make a bad fuse appear to be good.
If you or someone you know decide to look into it, we have critical safety information and disassembly information at our site, and our link is at our listing here on FixYa.
There should also be a "mini-manual" hidden inside the unit behind the control panel or hidden on the left side behind the grille, which is very helpful when troubleshooting & testing.
You can usually find helpful exploded view diagrams and order parts by entering your full model number here.
We're happy to help you with free advice and we'd appreciate your thoughtful rating of our answer.
Posted on Sep 27, 2008
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